Use of Sea Foam

Sea'Scape

Cadet
Joined
Aug 6, 2008
Messages
17
I want to use Sea Foam to clean out my engine, 4.3 LX Gen +. Watching the instructions for cars they say to pour about a third of a can down the carb. I don't like the idea of removing the flame arrester and pouring it down the carb.

Is that the best way? Or will it work if I just add some to the crankcase and to the fuel and let it work over a longer period of time?
 

shouldsellit

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Aug 1, 2009
Messages
34
Re: Use of Sea Foam

Poured that stuff in a old truck I had and was something of a smoke show. I think you can pour it in the gas tank also but don't know if it will work as well.
 

Rat Capri

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Mar 10, 2009
Messages
83
Re: Use of Sea Foam

make sure the engine is warm first, then pour it SLOWLY thru a vacuum source (PCV hose or the carb) with the engine idling...pour at a rate just above staling...just do it slowly....
 

HT32BSX115

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 8, 2005
Messages
10,083
Re: Use of Sea Foam

I want to use Sea Foam to clean out my engine
What do you mean by "clean out my engine"?

Why do you think pouring naptha mixed with oil will do anything other than foul your plugs and cause a lot of smoke?

Have you bore-scoped your engine and determined that it's "dirty" or do you just want to pour something into the carb and see what happens?


Do a little internet googling....and read the MSDS for Seafoam and other "Snake Oils"

Once you find out that they're just naptha, light oil and other inert ingredients that together make money for the people who sell them, you'll find that you're better off just tuning up your engine, installing new ignition components and using fresh gasoline.


Have a look in ANY OEM service manual and you'll find that they don't suggest using any after market Snake oil additives........they recommend fixing problems correctly instead of pouring petroleum mixtures on them.


Regards,


Rick
 

Utahboatnut

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jan 15, 2009
Messages
785
Re: Use of Sea Foam

Totally different engines but I know when I decarbed my 200 hp outboard with seafoam or snakeoil it worked well and I guarantee it ran better after the treatment. Or you could use the evinrude/johnson or yamaha or merc snake oil that is the same ingredients for twice the money...
 

HT32BSX115

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 8, 2005
Messages
10,083
Re: Use of Sea Foam

Totally different engines
You're right.


Decarbonizing a carbureted 2 stroke engine is a completely different thing entirely and IS described by manufacturers as a valid "thing" to do.

4 stroke cycle engines do not require decarbonizing. (although people have claimed to do it.......I would NEVER do it!!)
 

Bondo

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Apr 17, 2002
Messages
70,513
Re: Use of Sea Foam

4 stroke cycle engines do not require decarbonizing. (although people have claimed to do it.......I would NEVER do it!!)

Ayuh,....1st Off,...
I agree with the Snake Oil thing for 4 stroke motors,...2 strokers are a totally different animal...

For a couple of reasons, there's sometimes a Need to Clean the combustion chambers of a 4 stroke motor,...
1 would be taming a Run-on or dieseling issue,...
The other would be if the motor is Running,+ you Plan on tearing it down...

I'll advocate the Best, Cheapest internal cumbustion chamber Cleaner that money can buy,...
Water,.... Plain ole Water,... about a Pint of it...
Run the motor about 1500rpms,+ just pour the Water down the throat of the carb,...
Just fast enough to Labor the motor, but not Stall it...

It'll be Brand New Clean..... As soon as the soot and carbon cloud clears....
 

myoldboat2

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jun 3, 2007
Messages
300
Re: Use of Sea Foam

seafoam claims to work on the oiled surfaces, by adding 1/3 can to the oil (which is then changed), and on the combustion chambers, by pouring 1/3 can into the carb and 1/3 into the fuel. old timers have warned me to be VERY careful about using this stuff, that using it wrong could damage the seal of the rings.

but i don't discount all additives as "snake oil". i have a 35 year old mercruiser 140 i/o which had idling problems. reset the timing, adjusted the carb, checked fuel pressure, had the carb and choke rebuilt--things helped a little but never quite right. so i did what some of the old timers said--stay away from seafoam in the carb and run a treatment or two of techron through, in a tank of gas. i did that and the engine idled so much better. i also had hesitation on accelerating out of the hole, and between rebuilding the carb and the techron, it's gone.

now i NEVER believed in any of this stuff--"snake oil" would've been the kindest term i may have used. but using the techron changed my mind. i now run it through my boat once a season, and through my trucks once every year or two.

i did have a use for seafoam that helped, though. i recently had low oil pressure on my 140. because of poor access in the bilge, i had been sucking the oil changes out the dipstick tube. last year i spent a long time at it, turning the tube around and trying to move it all over the pan bottom, and i sucked some old gunk out. modern oils shouldn't produce that stuff (i run only mercruiser 25w-40), so that stuff is most likely in there from the previous owners--who knows what they ran. anyway, i was convinced the screen on the oil pump was clogged and i didn't want to pull the pan, so i did a modified seafoam treatment. i warmed the engine, put 1/3 can seafoam into the old oil, ran for a few minutes, shut down, sat a few minutes, then drained the oil into the bilge through the hard to reach drain plug. then i filled it and ran it twice with some new basic oil, drained each time to get all the seafoam out. then changed the filter, filled with 25w-40 and test ran it--i got my oil pressure back.

a lot of people claimed that synthetic oils were snake oil, but today it's mostly accepted that they outperform dino oil, even in non-extreme conditions. any new engine that i get from now on will run full synthetic. i also believe that an oil additive package (added by the oil manufacturer) that includes teflon is good for a high mileage engine. at the least, it can't hurt, and maybe i'm just wasting my money--but it is my money to waste.

i agree there are a lot of snake oils out there. but techron fuel system cleaner, seafoam for certain specialized things, and synthetic oils are something i now believe in.
 

ryendube

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jul 7, 2009
Messages
200
Re: Use of Sea Foam

Ayuh,....1st Off,...
I agree with the Snake Oil thing for 4 stroke motors,...2 strokers are a totally different animal...

For a couple of reasons, there's sometimes a Need to Clean the combustion chambers of a 4 stroke motor,...
1 would be taming a Run-on or dieseling issue,...
The other would be if the motor is Running,+ you Plan on tearing it down...

I'll advocate the Best, Cheapest internal cumbustion chamber Cleaner that money can buy,...
Water,.... Plain ole Water,... about a Pint of it...
Run the motor about 1500rpms,+ just pour the Water down the throat of the carb,...
Just fast enough to Labor the motor, but not Stall it...

It'll be Brand New Clean..... As soon as the soot and carbon cloud clears....

+1

misting it into the carb will work. Water injected into will steam clean your combustion chambers spotless and can actually be used to INCREASE horse power. yes i said it water injection is old technology that has been used in many aplications with huge gains in turbo charged and supercharged motors. It gibes less returns on Naturally aspirated ones but allows the use of lower octane fuels and increased ignition timing. hey using windshield washer fluid instead of water increases even more (methanol based fluids) cleans and boosts octane. Can seafoam claim it does those things :)

Im going to start relabeling bottled water and sell it as miracle engine cleaner.
 

ryendube

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jul 7, 2009
Messages
200
Re: Use of Sea Foam

seafoam claims to work on the oiled surfaces, by adding 1/3 can to the oil (which is then changed), and on the combustion chambers, by pouring 1/3 can into the carb and 1/3 into the fuel. old timers have warned me to be VERY careful about using this stuff, that using it wrong could damage the seal of the rings.

but i don't discount all additives as "snake oil". i have a 35 year old mercruiser 140 i/o which had idling problems. reset the timing, adjusted the carb, checked fuel pressure, had the carb and choke rebuilt--things helped a little but never quite right. so i did what some of the old timers said--stay away from seafoam in the carb and run a treatment or two of techron through, in a tank of gas. i did that and the engine idled so much better. i also had hesitation on accelerating out of the hole, and between rebuilding the carb and the techron, it's gone.

now i NEVER believed in any of this stuff--"snake oil" would've been the kindest term i may have used. but using the techron changed my mind. i now run it through my boat once a season, and through my trucks once every year or two.

i did have a use for seafoam that helped, though. i recently had low oil pressure on my 140. because of poor access in the bilge, i had been sucking the oil changes out the dipstick tube. last year i spent a long time at it, turning the tube around and trying to move it all over the pan bottom, and i sucked some old gunk out. modern oils shouldn't produce that stuff (i run only mercruiser 25w-40), so that stuff is most likely in there from the previous owners--who knows what they ran. anyway, i was convinced the screen on the oil pump was clogged and i didn't want to pull the pan, so i did a modified seafoam treatment. i warmed the engine, put 1/3 can seafoam into the old oil, ran for a few minutes, shut down, sat a few minutes, then drained the oil into the bilge through the hard to reach drain plug. then i filled it and ran it twice with some new basic oil, drained each time to get all the seafoam out. then changed the filter, filled with 25w-40 and test ran it--i got my oil pressure back.

a lot of people claimed that synthetic oils were snake oil, but today it's mostly accepted that they outperform dino oil, even in non-extreme conditions. any new engine that i get from now on will run full synthetic. i also believe that an oil additive package (added by the oil manufacturer) that includes teflon is good for a high mileage engine. at the least, it can't hurt, and maybe i'm just wasting my money--but it is my money to waste.

i agree there are a lot of snake oils out there. but techron fuel system cleaner, seafoam for certain specialized things, and synthetic oils are something i now believe in.

synthetic oils are the best thing to come out for motors, teflon however is not.

heres an excerpt from oil man site

There are basically two types of additives used, either Teflon based with PTFE (like Slick 50) or Chlorinated based (like Dura Lube) with some type of carrier, usually a paraffin based carrier or other mineral oil. Some have extremely large amounts of Moly, Zinc or Phosphorus, all extreme pressure agents which are detrimental to a motor oils proper function in the amount that they use.

Teflon does absolutely nothing inside your engine. Teflon must be heated up to about 800 deg. F to get it to stick to anything for friction reducing purposes, just like the Teflon on a frying pan, yet in your engine all those suspended microscopic colloidal Teflon particles do is gradually attach to you oil pick-up screen and reduce oil flow to your critical components as well as reducing the oil flow in other critical internal engine passages by attaching themselves to the passageway walls. In addition, as your oil filter filters out some of these suspended Teflon particles, your filter flow rate will be reduced which may eventually become restricted and default in to by-pass mode, which means unfiltered oil will be flowing through your engine.

Ever get bleach on your fingers? It's pretty slippery isn't it? Same principle here. Add enough Chlorinated components to a carrier and mix it with some type of Teflon, Moly, Zinc or Phosphorus & you can reduce the friction, except for one "minor" thing: Chlorinated additives mixed with oil and subjected to heat forms hydrochloric acid! Hydrochloric acid is extremely detrimental to you internal engine parts. Get the picture? That's it in a nutshell. Bottom line is: When using a properly formulated motor oil you do not need any additives whatsoever and additionally, the additives you may put in can react negatively with the additives the oil company carefully blended in. Do yourself a favor and stay away from aftermarket oil additives , regardless of how appealing the bogus claims they make in their advertising are!
 

myoldboat2

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jun 3, 2007
Messages
300
Re: Use of Sea Foam

quoted oil man site> "Teflon does absolutely nothing inside your engine."


SAE disagrees.

SAE papers 941983 and 982440 report presence of an anti-wear
film formation that specifically reduces start-up wear.
 

ryendube

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jul 7, 2009
Messages
200
Re: Use of Sea Foam

quoted oil man site> "Teflon does absolutely nothing inside your engine."


SAE disagrees.

SAE papers 941983 and 982440 report presence of an anti-wear
film formation that specifically reduces start-up wear.


right from your paper "PTFE dispersion alone gave approx. equivelant wear protection in piston rings as the sae 20 ref oil, but POORER wear protection to the reference oil in the bearings. The PTFE dispersion is the same composition and concetration as the PTFE used in 5 component UBC Engine treatment."

in other words the UBC works but teflon DOES NOT.

did you even read the document you sent me?
 

dr_bowtie

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Aug 4, 2009
Messages
281
Re: Use of Sea Foam

Seafoam will not hurt your enging but if done right will clean out the engine...

only reasone to use seafoam in a 4 cycle engine is to clean the valves and cylinders...

if you have an engine that is using a little oil usually via the valve seals then seafoam will clean them as well as the rings and the tops of the pistons...

I have done this many times and as an avid engine builder I have done this on older vehicles to clean it up a little on one that has been fouling out...or has had some sticking valves...

the correct way to do it is just like the can says...I use the PVC valve to suck it directly into the intake track and I raise the rpm to 2000rpm and use atleast half a can and then shut the engine off for 15-20 minutes to let the chemical work...

fire it back up and run it at 2000rpm until the smaoke clears...repeat if necessary...

also adding Lucas or Marvel Mystery Oil to the fuel will do the same thing but in a couple tanks of gas...

Marvel Mystery Oil or just plain ATF wll do the same kind of cleaning...
 

bruceb58

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 5, 2006
Messages
30,476
Re: Use of Sea Foam

quoted oil man site> "Teflon does absolutely nothing inside your engine."


SAE disagrees.

SAE papers 941983 and 982440 report presence of an anti-wear
film formation that specifically reduces start-up wear.
Oh my God...What a crock! The second paper was written by a Slick 50 guy and the first was written by Petralon employees which was also involved in teflon additives!
 

myoldboat2

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jun 3, 2007
Messages
300
Re: Use of Sea Foam

right from your paper "PTFE dispersion alone gave approx. equivelant wear protection in piston rings as the sae 20 ref oil, but POORER wear protection to the reference oil in the bearings. The PTFE dispersion is the same composition and concetration as the PTFE used in 5 component UBC Engine treatment."

in other words the UBC works but teflon DOES NOT.

did you even read the document you sent me?

yup.

i even read the whole document, not just the "summary and conclusions" like you did.

the whole point of the article is that they are measuring the effectiveness of the unique boundary chemistry (UBC). one of the things they compare against is straight PTFE. what you have missed is that the UBC is carrier oil plus PTFE, surfactants and suspension agents. here you go, from the body of the paper:

pg 104: "The UBC Engine Treatment chemistry is a blend of five ingredients including polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) in a premium multi-viscosity motor oil (carrier oil). PTFE is a polymer that is mechanically strong, durable, and chemically inert and that has an extremely low coefficient of friction. The other ingredients hold the PTFE in suspension and help ensure that it bonds effectively to metal surfaces within the engine."

as i said in my original post:
i also believe that an oil additive package (added by the oil manufacturer) that includes teflon is good for a high mileage engine.


Oh my God...What a crock! The second paper was written by a Slick 50 guy and the first was written by Petralon employees which was also involved in teflon additives!

this type of work is almost always funded by the manufacturers. otherwise it wouldn't get done. SAE papers are peer reviewed; they don't just publish unsubstantiated crap from manufacturers. one paper is from 1994, the other from 1998. it's been more than a decade... please link to a respected society's peer reviewed papers that debunk them. (i don't think you can--but i'd be happy to read them.)
 

Brucebu

Cadet
Joined
Jul 10, 2009
Messages
12
Re: Use of Sea Foam

I have used Marvel Mystery Oil added to the fuel tank and/or crankcase. Seems to work well.
 

HT32BSX115

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 8, 2005
Messages
10,083
Re: Use of Sea Foam

Oh boy......everything turns into an oil thread if you're not careful huh?


also adding Lucas or Marvel Mystery Oil to the fuel will do the same thing but in a couple tanks of gas
MMO is REALLY bad in gasoline engines.

Any time you add oil to gasoline you increase the potential for detonation. In a boat, detonation can severely damage an an engine. In an airplane people can be killed.

As indicated below from from an NTSB report they discovered MMO (Marvel Mystery oil) in the fuel.....


Although the pilot and FAA inspector did not report the same fuel tank as containing the red colored fuel, both were in agreement that the one tank contained the red colored fuel.
According to the FAA inspector, the additive that was added to the fuel was Marvel Mystery Oil. An empty 1 gallon can of Marvel Mystery Oil was found in the operator's trash. Instructions found on the can stated that the correct ratio for mixing with fuel was 1 part additive to 100 parts fuel. The contents of Marvel Mystery Oil were 74 percent mineral oil, 25 percent stoddard solvent, and 1 percent lard.
Stoddard Solvent


Marine engines are a LOT like aircraft engines......they are designed and run to create high torque at relatively low rpm and are operated at high power settings for long periods of time. Even short periods of detonation can and does frequently cause severe and permanent engine damage.





Now,

Someone needs to tell me why they think a mixture of Stoddard solvent, mineral oil and LARD is good for ANY gasoline engine.:eek::eek:

COME ON PEOPLE!!!!
 

rjlipscomb

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jun 2, 2009
Messages
582
Re: Use of Sea Foam

In the old days (like I'm really that old) we would let the engine warm up and then slowly poor clean cold water down the carb. The engine would grunt and blow awful black smoke out the exhaust. The idea is when the cold water hit the hot carbon, it would break off and burn out through the exhaust. We would do this until the exhaust smoke was white (for exhaust) and the carbon would be all gone.

On my modern fuel injected, highly computerized gasoline engines today, I use Techron, Lucas or Amsoil PI fuel injector cleaner if I can find it.
 
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