Re: 1995 Force 40hp No Spark When Cranking
Thanks John,
I did some hunting on the web and found this information that might be helpful to the next person looking for this information.
http://www.boatfix.com/how/switch.html
Most outboard ignition switches connect as follows:
B---positive battery--usually at start solenoid-normally protected with 20 amp fuse.
A---accesories-hot when switch is on
C---choke-hot when key is pushed in to choke position
S---starter-hot when switch is held over to start position
M and M---magneto-one M is connected to ground -black- and the other is connected to kill wire-black with yellow stripe-. When switch is off these two are shorted together.
INDAK IGNITION SWITCH WIRING
THREE & FOUR POSITION, ON - OFF - START & ACCESSORY WITH PUSH TO CHOKE (OUTBOARD):
This type of switch is common in newer outboard engine applications. It has three or four active positions, ON, START and ACCESSORY, all with a separate CHOKE position . It has been used by many major outboard engine manufacturers. Its basic operation is to apply power to multiple circuits, as well as provide a path to ground for voltages returning from a magneto circuit. The push to choke feature eliminates the need for a separate switch for this function. There are two versions shown below. Diagram B shows the standard switch used in many OMC applications. Diagram C shows the switch with an accessory position used in many Mercury applications. This switch is used anywhere multiple on - off functions are required where a magneto system is involved.
GO TO THIS SITE FOR DIAGRAM:
http://www.boatfix.com/how/switch.html
Boating Industry of America Wire Colors
http://www.brokeboats.com/biacolors.html
Here are the standard wire colors used in the boating industry since the late 70s. When re-powering a boat with a newer motor this is a handy reference. Most boats use these standards but always double check in case changes have been made!
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BIA Wire Color--------------------Where it is used
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Black---------------------------------All Grounds
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Black with Yellow stripe---------Magneto/short to Kill
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Gray----------------------------------Tachometer signal
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Yellow with Black stripe---------Choke
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Red----------------------------------Unprotected(12V+)from battery
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Red with Purple stripe-----------Protected(+12V)from battery
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Purple-----------------------------(+12V)from ignition switch
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Tan------------------------------Overheat sensor to warning horn
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Pink-------------------------------Sending unit to fuel guage
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Yellow with Red stripe----Ignition switch to starter solenoid
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Yellow-----------------------------charging stator to rectifier
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Lt.Blue with White stripe--------Trim up
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Green with White stripe-----------Trim down
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Some more standard wire colors used on many inboard boats, always double check though, as some vary or may have been changed along the way!
Some standard colors for boats since 1980 are as follows:
? heavy red 10 guage (main battery)
? heavy black (main ground)
? purple (ignition)
? yellow (starter solonoid)
? grey (tachometer)
? brown (temperature)
? blue (oil pressure)
? brown with stripe (alarm)
Accesories
? pink (fuel sending unit)
? yellow (blower)
? brown (bilge pump)
? grey (navigation lights)
? heavy green (bonding wire)
? red (misc electrical add-ons , vhf , depth finder, stereo, radar, power supplies)
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IBOATS DOESN'T HAVE THE STATOR SO I HAD TO LOOK INTO OTHER PLACES.
THIS IS A SITE I FOUND WITH ALL THE PARTS NEEDED TO FIX MY PROBLEM
SEILER MARINE
http://www.seilermarine.com/rapair/force.htm#8778K1-9710K1
174-8778K1 (9 amp) & 174-9710K1 (16 amp) Stators:
These two stators are identical, except for the battery charging output. Either one is $179 and comes with a two-year warranty. If you have a voltage regulator with "5279" in the part number, you can use 174-9710K1. If you only have a rectifier, you'll need to use 174-8778K1, unless you upgrade the rectifier to a CDI #194-5279 regulator ($119 - 1 year warranty).
I THINK THIS BOAT ONLY HAD THE 9 AMP STATOR AND IF THE BATTERY GETS WEAK THIS WILL CONTRIBUTE TO THE BAD RAP THAT FORCE MOTORS GET. YOU DROP THE VOLTS TO 9.5 ON A CID IGNITION SYSTEM AND IT WILL BURN UP BEFORE LONG.
I=E/R OHMS LAW NEVER FAILS. CLEAN BATTERY CONNECTIONS, CONDUCTIVE COMPOUND, ANTI-CORROSIVE COMPOUND MUST BE USED ON ALL ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS ON LAND, SEA OR AIR. T&B THOMAS & BETTS MAKES THIS COATING CALLED KOPER-COAT THAT BEATS ANYTHING I HAVE USED FOR OVER 30 YEARS. A GOOD CLEAN BATTERYCONNECTION CLEANED WITH BAKING SODA FIRST TO NEUTRALIZE THE ACIDS AND THEN COATED WILL OUTLAST THE BATTERY.
HAVE A GREAT DAY.
