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Old August 7th, 2009, 11:37 PM
magneto259 magneto259 is offline
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Default 74 mercury 50 hp throttle cable question

I'm trying to get the slack out of the cable because i only have throttle from the last inch or so in the lever travel and it doesn't move very swift at all with not much throttle. I've read numerous posts on how to adjust it but the only way I can is remove the clamp and throttle cable is to remove the arm that attaches to the distributor, twist the brass piece around and put it all back together and see what happens. But when i do that i notice that the distributor turns some and doesn't rest against the stop it once did. Will this hurt anything? Will it idle higher than it did before? From what I have read it says disconnect both cables and make sure the carbs are closed all the way against the stops and the shifter is in neutral on the detent. I can't see the detent or I don't recognize it. And adjust the barrels til they fit in the clamp but i can't do this while the arm is on the distributor. Should i be able too? Also when the throttle is wide open by the handle it stops because it hits the stops on the distributor. Can i back this out to get more handle movement and throttle in return? Or is this a no no? Thanks in advance!
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Old August 8th, 2009, 12:14 AM
jake505 jake505 is offline
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Default Re: 74 mercury 50 hp throttle cable question

to adjust your throttle what you should do is take the cable off the engine or at least disconect it from the part that it moves, then put your control into neutral and spin the distributor back against the stop wher it should be when it idles, then adjust the brass or plastic nut like thing(i bielive you said yours was brass) so you can connect everything back together with out moving the distributor forward any. if the distributor was originally agaist that stop then that is where it needs to start because if it comes forward any more at idle position then it will change your idle speed. the way these engines rev is by a combination of timing advancment and carburation.

when you take the cable of try throttling up the controller to see how far it is moving the cable maybe you have a broken cable or your controler is worn out.
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Old August 8th, 2009, 09:23 AM
magneto259 magneto259 is offline
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Default Re: 74 mercury 50 hp throttle cable question

I think the cable is just stretched out. I'll have to run it out and get a cable for it. Does it hurt anything if i happen to back the stop screw out that stops the distributor a few turns to get some more throttle? Thanks in advance!
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Old August 8th, 2009, 11:43 AM
Grabber48 Grabber48 is offline
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Default Re: 74 mercury 50 hp throttle cable question

I have a 76 mercury 50 hp and I had a similar problem. I found that when I took the controller apart to lubricate it that the metal case on the cable where it enters the controller was bent slightly so this made it hard to push the solid barrel into it when pushing the control handle forward. Very carefully straightening out the casing helped make controlling the throttle easier and more responsive. Most of the throttle is still between the 9 oclock and 8 oclock positions which does seem strange but since yours sounds similar maybe thats normal.
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Old August 9th, 2009, 12:09 AM
jake505 jake505 is offline
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Default Re: 74 mercury 50 hp throttle cable question

you should probably leave the stop screws in place if it running good. not sure exactly but I believe that engine has two stop screws one should be where the distributor rests when it is idling if your engine is idling fine dont screw with it the other screw if the one that stops the distributor when you thrttole up all this does is stop the distributor from andvancing any further then your carbs take over for any more power. I wouldn't adjust this screw because it is set where it sould be if you let the distributor advance anymore you could end up with being to much and then the engine wont fire at the right point of the stroke cycle and could cause some serious damage. pretty much what could happen is the gas in the cylinder could ignite and expand before the piston even gets a chance to make it all the way to the top of the cyclinder and then instead of the crank shaft being able to turn all the way around the piston will try to stop it and make it go the other way and naturally someone has to lose so it could be the connecting rod could break or bend, snap the crank, blow the head gasket, ect. you get the idea. pretty much dont screw with it though I dont think you could adjust that screw enough to do this it is still not going to do you any favors be adjusting it out any further just leave it if you want more power get a bigger engine
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