Re: 2001 90 HP Johnson - Power Pack = Warm starting problems?
I am following the procedure that I found on this website.
I have the single lever type to put in nuetral. There is a knob in the center that I pull out and push the lever forward. Mine has the solenoid primer.
The users manual says that I should not have to use the primer on a warm start. I have tried both ways. Should I have to primer it again on a warm start.
How much priming will cause a flooding situation?
Also, another anoying thing. This did not happen on my 95' Mercury. When I crank the engine, the starter backs off as soon as it thinks there is a fire. So most of the time there are a few cranks and then the solenoid pulls off the ring gear. There is no cranking for 8-10 seconds.
Anyway, I think that I am going to pick the boat up from the mechanic tonight. Last night he changed his tune a bit about the powerpack and got on the "90% of the time its user error." It very well could be, but tell me what I am doing wrong...I have had boats most of my life and never had a problem with starting a boat...this is the newest one that i have owned though.
He said that if it was the Powerpack that I would be having problems in more areas than just warm starting.
Sorry for the rant...but it is very frustrating and not fun at all to feel stranded on the water....and not be able to diagnose the problem....plus I am missing prime walleye time!!!
*******************************
Remote Keyed Ignition
There are two basic types of fuel systems to aid in cold starting. Solenoid activated Choke plates and solenoid primers. The starting procedures are the same for each.
1.Place the motor in fast-idle and in neutral gear. Depending on your remote control box, this is acomplished in one of two manners. If you have a dedicated fast-idle lever pull that up between 3/4 to full. If you have a single-lever control and don't have a fast-idle lever, pull the throttle out to lock the engine in neutral and push the throttle forward. If you have a dual-lever control, leave the shifter in neutral, and advance the throttle.
2.Push the key in, activating the choke plates or primer.
3.Turn the key to start.
4.After the motor begins to run, release the key so it returns to the run position and disengages the choke/primer.
5.As the motor begins to stumble, bump the key in activating the choke/primer. You may need to do this several times until the motor can fast-idle on its own.
6.If you tilted your motor up for cold-start, lower the motor to its normal operating position.
7.Visually inspect tell-tale for solid stream indicating proper cooling.
8.As the motor warms up, slowly begin reducing the fast-idle until the motor is able to run in normal idle on its own.
Additional Notes:
?Choke Plates: It is often the case that the choke plates are not set so they close fully and stay closed during start. You can remove the outer air cover and visually monitor their operation during start. If they are not closed, or do not stay closed, adjust the position of the choke solenoid in small increments until this condition is achieved.
?Quick Start: Because these systems automatically advance the timing for a cold start, raising the warm up lever may cause the timing to revert to normal at around 1100 RPM, before the engine is warmed to 96 degrees, defeating QuikStart. Those who have QuikStart may find that cold starts are better without the warm up lever, or with just a little. (thanks ezeke)
