Hi i have a 1971 electric shift motor and when i got the motor i put the wrong lower unit oil in it and ran it for a week before i new i put the wrong gear oil in it. Now it has type c in it and now it shorting out at the lower unit. what do you think I should try to do next, and how can i stop the short. It ran fine before i change the oil.
Hi i have a 1973 electric shift motor and when i got the motor i put the wrong lower unit oil in it and ran it for a week before i new i put the wrong gear oil in it. Now it has type c in it and now it shorting out at the lower unit. what do you think I should try to do next, and how can i stop the short. It ran fine before i change the oil.
please help me thinks
If you are positive it is a 1973, it isn't electric shift. 1972 was the last electric shift (actually Hydro-Electric). Whichever one you have, there is no possible way that the oil type is shorting anything out. You need to go back and re-evaluate the problem. Why do you feel that the lower unit is shorted out?
As F R pointed out, if your motor is a 1973, it isn't "electric shift." It would be a hydro-mechanical shift (shift rod), rather than hydro-electric (shift solenoids in the gearbox). In either case, putting hi-vis lube in the gearbox for a week shouldn't cause lasting problems, unless you blew a seal or something like that.
There are a couple of easy ways to tell what you have. The engine's model number is certainly the first thing to check, but you can also look at a couple of other items. If you have two mechanical cables (throttle & shift) running from the control unit to the engine, it isn't hydro-electric. On the other hand, if you have one mechanical cable (throttle), the motor would be hydro-electric. You can confirm this by removing the engine cover and looking for a pair of wires going down into the midsection, on the port side of the powerhead. There will be a pair of blade connectors there with black rubber boots over them.
My understanding of hi-vis lube v. Type C lube, is that the hi-vis is 80-90 weight hyphoid oil, while Type C is 80 weight oil. The hi-vis oil is API GL-5 rated, with 6.5% anti-scuffing agents and the Type C product is API GL-4 rated oil, with 4% anti-scuffing agents. I don't claim to be an oil expert by any means, but what I get out off this info, is that the GL-5 oil is a bit "thicker" and has a bit more flow resistance. I don't think that the GL-5 oil would blow seals in an otherwise healthy gearbox, but it might if the seals were in bad shape to begin with.
What the heavier oil might do, is cause the shifting function of the gear box's hydraulic system to operate poorly. I would expect this to be more apparent in colder water temperatures. Again, assuming that you don't have some physical defect, draining the hi-vis oil and replacing it with Type C oil, should be all you need to do. One thought, however, is that if you didn't open the vent plug when you drained the hi-vis, there might still be a significant amount of it in the gearcase. In this case, or even if you just want to be sure that all of the hi-vis is gone, you can drain and refill again.
Try to answer F R's question as best you can and provide whatever other information that you can about your motor. From that, we should be able to help you further.
If you are positive it is a 1973, it isn't electric shift. 1972 was the last electric shift (actually Hydro-Electric). Whichever one you have, there is no possible way that the oil type is shorting anything out. You need to go back and re-evaluate the problem. Why do you feel that the lower unit is shorted out?
the m number is 50173 S. when I turn the key on the ing it blows the fuse on the motor. I replace the fuse and unhooked the green wire going to the lower unit and it does not blow the fuse then.
I start the engine with the green and blue wire unhooked going to the lower unit. thern coming from the batt with a hot wire I put the hot wire to the green for for neutrel and it does nothing and the hot wire starts to get hot
sounds like a bad solenoid, or shorted grounded wire. i have not seen any replacements, in a while. your motor is a 1971, according to model #. i edited your title, to correct year.
we all need to support iboats marine store when ever possible. you get, competitive prices. fast shipping, top notch customer service. also it provides us, this great FREE forum.
sounds like a bad solenoid, or shorted grounded wire. i have not seen any replacements, in a while. your motor is a 1971, according to model #. i edited your title, to correct year.
If the fuse does not blow with the green wire disconnected, you have a short in the neutral circuit. If the neutral solenoid is bad, you may be able to effect a repair. The upper solenoid is still available at $131.95 & the part number is 580780. The other possibility, however, is that there is a short in the wiring between the blade connector in the cowl and the solenoid. That could be a problem, because the rubber encased wires that are installed in the midsection are NLA.
To test your solenoids, follow the following directions. Since you are getting a short on the green circuit, you will have to start at the last item (f) and I would expect you to get a reading of zero.
SHIFT SOLENOIDS
a. Neutral solenoid - connect low reading D.C. ammeter between green leads at the knife conenctors in the port side engine cowling.
b. Shift in neutral position, key switch on.
c. Ammeter should read 1.5 - 2.0 amps for ten minutes.
d. If reading is too high or low - solenoid should be replaced.
e. Repeat test at same location, with the blue leads. Use the same test values and procedure.
f. Ohmmeter Test (key switch off). Connect meter between green lead and ground and then the blue lead and ground. Low ohm scale should read 5 - 6 ohms.
1971 evinrude electric shift 50 hp
Linear Mode
