Mercrusier 1997 4.3 part swapping

Hey guys i'm new to here but i've read allot of posts so i decided to join. I have a 1997 vortec V6 that saddly has a cracked block and 1 head. i have read that you can jb weld these but after further investigation i have decided to get a new block and heads. My question is when I get the new parts how hard is it to take everything off my old motor and put them on the new motor? Is there anything i should watch for as far as installation? or is this pretty straight forward? just un bolt each piece at a time and put it on my new one? i'm kind of a do it yourselfer and learn as i go can I or should i do this myself?

This is a great site and i'm glad i found it.
Thanks a bunch
Charlie

Re: Mercrusier 1997 4.3 part swapping

Charlie, If you have a digital camera take lots of pics when you get your old motor out. mainly wires.... starter, alt, distrb, hose locations on t-stat housing etc. Get some masking tape and mark everything, if your like me you won't remember where or how it goes when it's time to put it back. At the top of the forum in the "ADULTS ONLY" sticky there are free OEM manuals to download and lots of other important stuff. I don't know if the manuals are still available as they were having probs with them a few days ago. Good luck on your project and welcome to iboats

Re: Mercrusier 1997 4.3 part swapping

fuzzybob is spot on. take pics of every last little thing. if you wonder if you should, then do it. tape and marker will be the best friend you ever had, for this anyway. it doesn't seem like alot to remember, until you don't remember during re-assembly. thoroughly clean and INSPECT all the parts you plan on using from old motor. if you're not sure about condition, have it checked. a $100 at the shop is far cheaper than another bad motor because of one little crack somewhere. and of course, patience. lots of it. good luck.

Re: Mercrusier 1997 4.3 part swapping

heres a little advice. Ive done it plenty of times and all different motors.

Its fairly easy you might get stuck on the distributor part, and youll have to time the motor afterwards, but certain parts you have to pay attention to is the fuel pump, Distributor, intake manifold. Youll need a puller tool for the the removal of the harmonic damper pulley. Best advice is to swap over part by part its easier then unbolting everything and guessing if you dont know. make sure you order new gaskets for the Intake, exhaust manifolds, risers, etc Get Some High Temp Red RTV silicone sealant. Also get New Plugs, Distributor Cap+Rotor, Fuel and Oil Filters. If your not sure ask me im certified mercury tech ive done it alot so any questions let me know.

Re: Mercrusier 1997 4.3 part swapping

Hey guys i want to thank you for your replies. I will check out the adults only forum as well. when i took the engine apart so far intake/heads/exhaust i labled everything like you have said. I guess this will be one heck of a learning experiance for me since i have never done anything like this and i don't think snowmobiles even compare. i'm sure i will be back to ask more questions. I did find the same model 4.3 engine used for sale from a 2000 boat. would this work with mine or be compatible its a drop in with the exception of exhaust manifolds. it aperears to look different tho. the alternatoer is in a different position. but i guess my real question is will my outdrive work with it? i have the 1997 4.3 gen 2+ and i bieleve its a alpha1 outdrive not for sure tho. any help would be greatly apreciated. also is 1500 cheap for a used 4.3 drop in? they even ran it for me at the shop it idled good i even changed the oil after running and no water. it seems to be in very good working order and it only has 46 hours on it as well.

Re: Mercrusier 1997 4.3 part swapping

Wow. $1500 for a drop in motor is really good I think. As comparison, I just finished replacing the cracked 4.3 block on my boat.

I picked up a donor engine $300 (truck engine, only the block is usefull, everything else no good to marine application), paid $350 for gaskets, and then another $600 at the machine shop for the crank polish, all new bearings, pistons and rings. So I've got $1250 and a heck of a lot of time invested just for a rebuild. I'd go for the $1500 option personally. You'd be surprised at what you find damaged inside when you open up an engine that's cracked and has water in it.