[James R]

This motor is not in bad shape. Needed wiring and harness.
Concern is that the fly wheel makes a ticking noise when rotated. No noise rotating without the flywheel. Some evidence of the magnets making contact with the stator coils. Is there something I can do to improve the alignment.

[corm]

Hi,

I would check the side to side movement on your crankshaft to see if your top bearing is going bad. There should be no side to side movement.
Check to be sure you upper bearing cap bolts are tight too
I have seen the flywheel magnents get loose but it is rare.

[James R]

Thanks for the response CORM. Looks like the upper seal is leaking slightly as fuel is running down the block. Is it possible to pull the the end cap with seal and bearing to replace them without removing the power head. I don't have an assembly drawing on this motor to provide me with ideas.

[corm]

Hi,

It is possible. You have to measure the bearing height so you keep you crankshaft end play the same. You should have a depth micrometer to measure the
differences between the bearing when it is seated or maybe a outside micrometer to check the differences between the two bearings.
You will need some kind of puller for the end cap too. The merc one is a little over square and has a lot of alignment holes in it. You may be able to get a std puller to match up to the stator bolt holes so you can pull the cap. If you decide to do this I would get a manual for the engine. It will be helpful.

Can you post or email a picture of the stator where it is rubbing. Merc used to grind some of them round to fit. It would be good to make sure that is what is happening.

[James R]

Thanks again for the response Corm. I have chalked the stator and chalk transfered to the flywheel. Don't have engineers blue on hand. To be on the safe side I will pull the power head and split the crankcase. There is just a tiny deflection on the crankshaft. As you said the bearing may be on its way out and this may have caused the seal to fail.
I appreciate your input.
Thanks.

[James R]

I figured to try to pull the end cap and it came out with careful application of two screwdrivers. The bearing looks ok but I will replace it anyway. Your reference to the bearing thickness has been duly noted and has been measured. The drawings show spacer shims in various thicknesses to space the bearing against the crankshaft. No spacers in this motor but I will measure the new bearing and shim accordingly. Thanks for all your help.

[James R]

Ok. The bearing, seal and 'O' ring have been replaced. Still have the ticking.
Fuel is still coming out from some where. What next?

[corm]

Hi,

Well that's a drag. I use to use a piece of 3M black ele tape for a gauge where you used chalk. I thought the chalk was a good idea. Was the o-ring the same size and did you use loc-tite 518 to put it back together with?
Did any of the magnets look displaced or loose in the flywheel?
I have in the past filed the stator metal down to fit better. You have to be careful not to create a short in the plates. They have a laminate between each piece of metal. Use a sharp smooth file for this. One wide enough to cut the full piece in one stroke.

Can you see where the fuel is coming from? or at least an area.
Is the oil recycling hose in good shape. the unburnt oil is pumped up from the bottom bearing to the top one to re burn the oil and lube the upper bearing. Gas comes up the tube with it. This hose is on the starboard side.
I am guessing the retaining spring stayed on the seal when it was installed.
Are the top crankcase bolts tight?
Lots of guesses. Try cleaning the block of with 409 or some like it to see if you can better see where the gas is coming from.

[James R]

Hi CORM.
The new seal did not quite seal in the end cap. An application of sealant at the seal joint has solved the problem. Polishing the stator laminations has removed the physical contact but the clicking is still there. Motor runs beautifully so no biggie.
Thanks for all of your help.