Can't get reverse to engage. When I put it in reverse i can hear it trying to engage (clicking noise) but it never fully engages. Didn't know if it had the wrong oil in lower unit so I changed - still nothing? Any help would be appreciated.
On another note when I was changing the oil in the lower unit I took the drain screw out and oil shot out eveywhere like is was under pressure. The vent screw was still tight. I filled with a pump until oil came out of the vent hole, tightened the vent screw and when I unscrewed the pump again the oil shot out eveywhere! WHAT AM I DOING WRONG???
I called the guy that I bought the boat from to see if I was missing something and he told me that when he drained/filled he NEVER took out the lower screw. He took out a little screw that you use an allen wrench to take out and did it that way. I know this is wrong - could that have been the cause of the reverse problem?
That allen screw the seller spoke of is a set screw that locks the pinion gear bearing in place. It is not to be removed! Next time the lower unit is complete empty, clean that screw and the related lower unit threads with acetone or lacquer thinner, then apply LocTite to the screw threads and install it just until the head of the screw is just a hair below flush with the lower unit.
You are checking and filling the lower unit properly. Some of those lower units build up pressure for some reason. I've encountered it a number of times..... nothing to be concerned about (other than getting out of the way of that sudden release of presure). Best to slowly release the top screw first.
Now, your problem with reverse. Hopefully you filled the lower unit with "Premium Blend", also know as "Type C", which is available at your local Evinrude/Johnson marine dealership. If not, do so. Do not confuse this gearcase lubricant with regular "Automotive Premium Blend" as it is not the same and will not work.
Voltages...... The wire connections leading to the lower unit, leave them connected. Now, with the shift control in forward, the voltage at the connection point should be a full 12 volts. Now, shift to reverse, the voltage reading at both wire connections should also be a full 12 volts. Anything less than a full 12 volts indicates a voltage drop due to faulty wiring BUT usually it is due to a faulty shift switch.
To check the lower unit, its wiring, bypass the shift switch etc..... disconnect the wires leading to the lower unit, then apply 12 volts directly from the battery to the wires leading to the lower unit. If the unit shifts properly now, the lower unit is okay.
Thanks for your help Joe. I will check the voltages and post my findings. It seems odd that it trys to shift and doesn't - maybe just not enough juice?
Thanks for your help Joe. I will check the voltages and post my findings. It seems odd that it trys to shift and doesn't - maybe just not enough juice?
That is possible. The "juice" as you call it, energizes a solenoid in the lower unit. The solenoid closes, and holds closed, an oil flow control valve. It is the oil that does the shifting. That's the "Hydro" part of Hydro-Electric shift. Actually Hydraulic shifting controlled by electric solenoid valves.
As for using premium blend only. I had a 72, 125 HP. I ran Hi-Vis in that gearcase from the time it came on the market, until I sold it, along with the boat 2 years ago. My concern was lubrication. I could not detect any difference in the shifting. I could shift the gear case with a battery, and a spline socket on the end of my speed wrench. Very cold water might make a difference. I was never concerned about that. You could'nt use HI-Vis in a electro-matic, but these gearcase's are entirely differnt. If you have'nt tried it, don't come back, and tell me it won't work. That gearcase is the same as the later model's except for the shifting. They felt Hi-Vis was a better lubricant for those.
1972 Evinrude 65 - Won't go into reverse
Linear Mode
