This is my first post in iBoats, I've been reading for a few days. I'm a jeeper and hang out on a similar board for old Jeeps. I love these communities, very helpful and knowledgeable. That said, I'm also an able mechanic, just new to outboards.
I just recently got this boat from my brother in law. It has been sitting for several years in his driveway, so we both thought it was time it saw some water.
1990 Evinrude 150 (E150STLESB) on a 21' Kenner Center Console.
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History
Two years ago one of the cylinder banks was overheating, my brother in law pulled the lower and says he was able to flush out a piece of rubber that had lugged it. I believe him because he took my brother fishing on it in the bay soon after and had no problems.
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Now
Yesterday, I went to fire it up with the muffs on it, forgot to turn on the water and ran it for about 20 sec before I realized and turned off the engine. I turned on the water, restarted the engine and let it run for a few minutes.
Constant steady tell-tale of water. The little relief hole on the starboard side was shooting water. Some water was leaking from between the lower and midsection.
Then I got the steady warning beep of overheating. I shut down the engine, grabbed my temp gun and popped off the cover.
The starboard bank was about 125, the port was close to 200 deg.
I pulled the thermostat housings hoping that this was the problem. No thermostats in either bank. It actually looked like a PO had hollowed out the thermostats and left the outer gaskets so they would seat. The plungers? for high speed cooling were in pace, old, but in place.
I'm afraid I fried the impeller and shot junk into the cooling passages. :o
Either way, I'm planning on picking up the whole impeller/pump kit and new thermostats and such.
Do you all have any insight or thoughts on what this could be?
Also, how in the world do I flush out the passages?! and ensure I cleared it before I put the motor back together?
I tried to shoot some water into the thermostat housing last night but it just seemed to go nowhere and just shoot back out. ( I did still have the motor together.)
Thank you for your help.
Brian
Cleveland/Coldspring Texas - Lake Livingston
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I pulled the lower and replaced the impeller and water pump assembly.
I pulled both thermostat housings, thermostats, and diverters?
I was flushing through the thermostat housings, and I'm sure I managed to get water all over.
Now, whenever I turn the key to the on position there is a very fast beeping sound. Way faster than once per second. More like 5-10 times/sec .
I let it sit overnight thinking I got something wet and I would let it try out, but its still there this morning.
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Continuous short beeps is a no oil alarm coming from your VRO.
From what I read, the no oil alarm is every second or two, this is super fast. Will the no oil resolve itself when I fire up the engine? I have oil, and never had this alarm until well after the lower drive unit was removed.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ezeke
You should rebuild the thermostat system as soon as possible.
There are six water passage deflectors in the cooling passages that can move, causing restrictions when they do.
I'm replacing the two thermostats and the two diaphragms in the large holes that are directly below the thermostats. Should I do something else/more?
There are disconnects on each temperature switch tan wire a few inches down from the cylinder heads. Why don't you disconnect those and see if the horn stops with the key on.
If you have had an overheat condition, it is good shop practice to replace the cylinder head gasket; in the process of doing that you can inspect the water passage deflectors.
I solved the overheating.
1) Replaced the impeller/water pump with the Evinrude water pump kit.
2) With the lower gearcase still off, I removed the thermostats and bypass valves from each head.
- Flushed by jamming a hose nossle in the thermostat and bypass passages while covering the others with the fingers to force the water down through the midsection and out, flushing any junk out.
3) Reinstalled gearcase. Tip for removing/reattaching the shift rod linkage under the lower carb. From the starboard side, follow the shift linkage rod under the lower carb, notice its location. Now, on the port side, get a flashlight otherwise you won't see it, look for a hex head slot screw that is screwed into the other end of the shift linkage, horizontally. Ignore the nut on top of the linkage. Use a 3/8 ratchet with a ujoint and extensions to get to it. It also helped to move some of the wires out of the way. Unscrew it. This is a small bolt with a long smooth pin on the end, so don't worry about it falling out. Have a magnetic pickup handy to remove the bolt. Reinstalling: Make sure before you insert the gearcase that you push down on the sift rod and point it forward. You may want to not screw the gearcase on all the way, leaving a quarter in or so. Have a buddy gently move the throttle to move the linkage up and down until the linkage and rod are aligned. It help to gently push on the screw pin with your magnetic pickup tool until you feel it connect the two. Tighten bolt. Tighten gearcase.
4) Replaced thermostats (w/ gaskets) and high speed bypass seals.
Confirmed good running with a much more powerful stream of water in the tell tale. and a temp gun showed the heads never climbed over 150, usually running a little cooler.
The rapid fast beeping goes away when I fire up the engine, would return once engine was shut off. But once the engine got hot it seemed to fade away only to return once the engine cooled down. Weird.
Another note: Lean run condition: I replaced the fuel hose and small inline filter inside the case. The new generic see through filter (installed with correct flow orientation) was causing fuel starvation which showed as the engine revving up until I repeatedly pumped the fuel bulb to force more fuel in it. I gave up and removed the filter (still have main fuel water separator filter) and the engine smoothed right out. I have to wonder if the filter was made for a push type system, not a mechanical pull.
A rapid beeping is often caused by a faulty oil tank module that senses the ol level. Trace the wiring from the tank to the motor and disconnect it there to see if that's the culprit.
If you have a later model warning horn that beeps once when you turn the key on, then the electronics in that may be acting up.
Port side Evinrude 150 overheating - Help
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