Hello All:
I'm new here and looking for some help. I recently purchased this 35 HP for my son. It was running perfectly until two weeks ago when the top cylinder stopped firing. I replaced the coil first since it was the easiest to do but did not resolve the problem. The local dealer suggested the condenser may be gone, so I purchased two and proceeded to replace them both. The points looked good so I left them alone.
I replaced the flywheel and fired it up, both cylinders worked and it ran great for about 30 seconds and quit and would not start. I pulled the flywheel again and discovered that the woodruff key was sheared. In short, I purchased two more keys with the same results, the motors runs for a few seconds the key shears and it quits. In total that was three keys, the original that sheared when I replaced the flywheel and two new ones. There is no washer between the flywheel and the bolt and I didn’t see one in the parts diagram at the dealers. I tightened the bolt as best as I could and it really felt like there was no more room to move. Any idea’s why this may be happening? Thanking you in advance for your advice.
I had the same exact problem on my 1986 Johnson 70hp. Went through 3 keys in a matter of minutes. Called my mechanic and he asked me if I was tightening it. I was using a socket and rachet of about 12". He said, well that's good, but now come get my breaker bar, (which is about 24-26") and tighten it down real good, then when you have it nice and tight, pull it a little harder.
Long story short, you probably don't have it tight enough. Mine hasn't sheared since. And that was well over 3 months ago.
If memory serves me correctly, I believe he said it calls for about 110 ft lbs of torque? Could be mistaken. Either way, make it tighter.
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Okay, thanks for your replies, using the same tools, a 1/2 rachet with about a 12" handle and I thought I was overdoing it, you know, just a little more and the thing will snap, or the threads will strip. I have a torque wrench, just didn't have it with me last weekend. It's not a click type but rather the gage with the bar that moves. Personally, I think I have more than 60 foot pounds of torque. If this doesn't do the job, is there anything else I should be looking for? Thanks again.
Okay, thanks for your replies, using the same tools, a 1/2 rachet with about a 12" handle and I thought I was overdoing it, you know, just a little more and the thing will snap, or the threads will strip. I have a torque wrench, just didn't have it with me last weekend. It's not a click type but rather the gage with the bar that moves. Personally, I think I have more than 60 foot pounds of torque. If this doesn't do the job, is there anything else I should be looking for? Thanks again.
Yes, there are other things you need to look for.
1. Once it shears the first one, it usually damages the keyslots or flywheel/crankshaft tapers. Shearing the second one makes it worse. 3rd, 4th....you get the picture. So, take a good look at what you have. If they are beat up, you got a problem.
2. Before installing the flywheel, it is absolutely necessary that the tapers be clean and dry.
3. It is very important that the nut be tightened to the correct torque. Undertightening will cause the key to shear. Gross overtightening will spread and destroy the flywheel hub. Guessing at the torque is not allowed. The beam type torque wrench is fine. Try to read it accurately as you can.
If memory serves me, the tappered shaft on the crank had a slight score mark around the bottom, could this be the problem?
I did clean the inside of the flywheel and the crankshaft with mineral spirits on a rag and they looked good. Is the correct torque, 60 or 110 foot pounds?
1976 35 HP Evinrude shearing flywheel key
Linear Mode
