Pilothouse build

Mark42, I talked with you a while ago on your thread. It was as far back as the 1st page I think. Anyway, I finally got enough time to start my pilothouse also. I have been following yours and also followed the x-shark on Classicmako.com. I have had to do quite a few framing tear downs and rebuilds to find something to look good. I think I have finally found something that I like and resembles my new picture. Everything ended up dwarfing the boat because I wanted to stand under it with my present floor. This afternoon, I discovered I won't need my present size gas tank and can lower the floor about like you did. So here's the drawing and I'll try to take pics if I can finish the new frame and get ply on it this weekend. I think I'm going the ply and poly route, for money and ease after reading about your few troubles. I lowered it by at least three inches by going into the fuel tank storage area. Unlike yours, I will make a tee shape...... a walk-in area, and then a standing area in front of my seats. What do you all think of the shape? I hope the proportions end up being like this picture. It seems quite close when looking at it.

Re: Pilothouse build

By the way, the line in the front windshield is where I hope that I'll hinge the windows. I think that I only need either the top or bottom half that folds up or down because of the size of the window, as long as I can keep the field of vision open whether sitting, leaning, or standing. I still haven't decided on how to do the sides. I will raise my seats accordingly. I appreciate any critics of this project by the way. It's a 1979 Aquasport FF 19-6. I altered my plan of putting my mercruiser in it (due to me selling old boat) and decided to steal my engine off of my "new" Carolina Skiff. It's a Suzuki 115 4 stroker that I intend to put on a bracket.

Re: Pilothouse build

Looks proportionally good to my eye, can you get to the bow ?

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Jonesg, thanks for the response. Yes, unfortunately you can't go around, but there is a sliding hatch that is in front of the pilothouse. I would leave it to slide under the pilothouse with a sweep for weatherstripping. You have to stoop down to get under the windows and then back up. A picture would make better sense. I will try tomorrow if I can remember batteries. I have also thought about having a u-shaped stainless bracket made big enough for your foot that is attached just under the pilothouse, and about midway of it, just in case you needed to go around the outside.

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I have a question concerning this build. I was thinking of using 3/8 ply and reinforcing a little after removing the temp framing. Would 1 layer of 1708 inside and out be enough to make this top sturdy?

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With 1708 inside and out ...you wouldn't need the plywood.!
Urethane foam will give you the shape needed, then you can use poly resin.

if its mostly straight lines I'd consider making the panels on a layup table and assembling it afterward.
Anything similar to formica is fine for a layup table, wax and spray release, spray with urethane paint and apply 1/2 oz cloth with poly resin(unwaxed) then 1708 and then backing of 3/4 inch urethane from home depot(remove the foil backing) then 1708 again to finish. Use these panels to build your house.

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Jonesg, it was my impression that poly would melt the insulation, or are you talking the white styrofoam? I was wanting slightly rounded off corners, how could would I manage that? I wonder if that styrofoam would sand like the other foam? Ugh I've also already framed it to fit the boat with either 1/2 or 3/8 ply, I would have to start over again. By the way, does anybody know the thickness added by 1708?

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urethane foam, not styrofoam. No problem with poly.
Making it with a wood core I'd be very sure to seal the lower part because water is gonna get in and want to wick upwards.

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I wonder how much heavier it would be with the ply? By the way, there is a piece of 1x4 laying flat around the bottom that would be glassed to it all. The top could actually be removed if needed.

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drwgblanks, I didn't see this new post until now. That new rendering looks great! Nice proportions.

Using 1708 will add thickness very quickly. Its about 1/8" or so per lamination so it builds up fast. And much stronger than you might imagine.

Frame it, and use 1/4" ply with one layer of 1708 on each side. And be sure to use polyester resin, due to fairing issues with epoxy. And it will let you gel coat the top if you want.

Here is something to think about:

I have had a formica top table outside for years until it finally crumbled due to water damage. Even though the plywood top rotted, the formica laminate never was damaged by the sun. Someone on these forums suggested using formica laminates for making my hard top, but I was already too far along to change. They said it worked well for them on other projects. There are some great advantages to using formica; it will leave a smooth surface that needs no finishing, it will save countless hours of work fairing and painting or gel coating, and it can be sanded and painted. Think about using 1/4" ply, formica on the outside, and glass on the inside for extra strength. Frame the structure with 2x2 and epoxy the panels on or maybe stainless screws with finish washers. Use a marine caulk at the seams and you would be done and on the water in no time.

I'm working on the side window sliding channels right now, making the templates to take to the glass shop. Need this all done by tomorrow noon. The shop said tempered glass is not a problem and about the same price as laminated, but there is an added expense for making templates. So I'm going to see what its all about. Will probably go with the tempered if I can afford it. I'll keep you posted on the window progress and expense.

Mark