Hey senior chief RRitt,1 more question

I posted a question the other day that you answered,I recently rebuilt my tilt/trim on 1988 85 force,I replaced fluid w/ ND30 motor oil as you advised but it still leaks down slowly. You said replace the seals in motor, is this something you can give a quick overview On how to or is it a very difficult process.how many seals are there? when you say seals do you mean o-rings?Thanks for your help in advance...Have a great holiday !

Re: Hey senior chief RRitt,1 more question

ND30 doesn't make your system work better. It makes it last longer because there are no additives to attack the internal seals. The ideal fluid would be ISO32 hydraulic jack oil but 1988 has a tendency to buck if the fluid is too thin. So ND30 is the best overall choice.

This is completely different issue from the two other anticipated ailments of a 1988 system. Actually, it is just one ailment but it affects two different spots.
Old rubber leaks. The pump won't hold pressure and the system will bleed down. Water will get into trim motor and ruin it from the inside. There's just no way around rubber getting old. Valve body bleed down and water in motor usually happen within a year or two of each other. Rubber doesn't last forever. Your motor, on the other hand, will last forever. Or until water gets inside. Whichever comes first.

Re: Hey senior chief RRitt,1 more question

there is no sign of water in my system yet so could you explain how to replace the seals in the motor ?

Re: Hey senior chief RRitt,1 more question

you will need a pair of die cut square rings and a pair of bonded sealing washers. take motor apart and put back together with new seals. Inspect all sealing faces and internal surfaces for rust. If any rust is forming, blast or brush away, treat with chemdip or phospho acid, paint with zinc. Don't try gasket compound, or other stuff. Get the right parts and do it right first time.