I have a 77 55hp Evinrude on a 16ft '75 Ranger. I just bought it, knew it needed work, and dove in.. lol...
Replaced new are:
Carb kits (increased jet size in idle circuit)
Fuel Pump / Filter
Power Pack
Coils
Rectifier
Fuel Lines (ALL) w/ bulb
Fuel Tanks
Batteries
Light wiring
Here's the problem.... The engine will run fine for a short time..(5 to 20 min), then stall so suddenly, it is as though you just turned off the key. With timing light connected, I see no spark while cranking...After anywhere from 20 min to 1 hour, it will restart and repeat the same process.....
When it does run, it runs very well....
I think I have lost more hair with this boat than the two teenagers have caused...lol
But just recently, (yesterday) It ran for about 30 min (NEW RECORD) woohoo!!, Then wouldn't shut off (had to ground the kill switch wire to kill it)..It did this twice yesterday, and did NOT stall either of these times (each run was about the same distance).
Is it likely for the ignition switch to be causing such a stalling problem?..
I have a new one that I will be installing today, just wondering if anyone out there might help me with this...Is there anything else likely to cause this that I have not replaced?..(timer assembly)...I have NOT had the flywheel off yet.
As this is my first outboard to work on, I am at a loss...
Auto mechanic for 10+ years....(but I am beginning to understand, that means NOTHING) lmao.
The ignition switch has now become "hot"(shocks the crap out of me) after turning the key off...engine still stays running... New switch changed nothing. Engine still stalls after running a few minutes...
Any help out there, anyone have any ideas.....??
**edit**
Well, I figured out that the "hot" ignition switch was a bad ground at the box...
Still can't figure out why the engine dies after running a few minutes...help would be appreciated...
I have found that the charge coil shows infinity when checking resistance with an ohmmeter (removed lead from #1 connector at power pack and connected tester to wire lead and ground)... As I am a little unsure what the charge coil actually does...?? Is the charge coil like the pickup coil on a auto?...??
Also noticed today that during the times of no spark after the stall.. I have intermittent (2 out of 5 times) spark ONLY when releasing the key after cranking (timing light flashes a couple of times)....
WOW, I'm amazed you didn't get any response before mine, normally lots of people here will jump in and help on this type of problem.
Coils and power packs tend to heat up and then stop working, my first step is to change all the coils on an older motor because they go bad with, or without use and if they're not bad now, they will be soon. You'll find cracks on them if you look. Pull the flywheel off and see if there is anything oozing out of the stator.
Power packs can fail and create all kinds of problems and shutting the engine off after 20 or 30 minutes and then starting up again after an hour or so would fit right in with failing power pack.
Thanks for the response... I will pull the flywheel in the morning.
As I have just replaced the power pack when I replaced the coils (2 weeks ago), I hope it is not bad, I know it is very possible to buy bad parts.
Is there a way to test the power pack without having the spark tester and neon switch..?
I have the Clymer manual, but it is very general with its procedures....
Also discovered that if I put the ohmmeter on the correct scale while testing the charge coil resistance , I get 833 ohms...(specs call for 675-825)... just barely over the limit there, kinda hot down here...95+F...( don't know if that matters or not).
I could sure use some help here if someone might see something in these pics that I don't, the two screws that hold the charge coil were just a "little" loose.. Not loose enough to fall out, just not real tight....
I am beginning to think maybe I got a bad power pack from the parts store, but don't know where to go from here......
Well...Don't know where to go from here at all.....
Hoping for some help here...
Summary:
Starts and runs good cold, runs for anywhere from 5 to 20 min...then stalls like you turned off the key. Timing light on #1 plug shows no spark after stall.
I have replaced:
Power Pack ( 2 )
Coils (both)
Ignition Switch
Rectifier
Fuel Pump / Filter
Fuel Tanks / Lines / Bulb
Carbs rebuilt with kits
I have replaced all I know here guys... could the stator, or coil assembly with the timer cause something like this?
I removed the flywheel, and looked at these, but didn't see anything that looked like it had been overheating to me..... pics are in post above...
Some of the problem in getting answers for you may be in how slow this site has been for the last few days, I know I haven't been able to even look at anything.
The difficult part about this type of problem is that unless all the testing is done while the components are actually failing, they may test out fine.
I had the same motor and it ran great, a friend of mine bought if from me and after a few trips he said it would lose power, but only after three hours of continuous use, if he shut it off for any length of time it would reset the clock. He tested everything over many weeks and then just decided to change the power pack, it worked perfect after that.
Yes, I did notice how slow the server has been... glad its back in action now.
It's got me stumped for sure... I've tried 2 different power packs, and replaced every ignition part except the stator and timer base up to this point.
I changed the thermostat today, and noticed the old one was stuck in a "slightly open" position. Is there anything to anyone's knowledge that would shut the engine down if it overheats on this year motor? '77 55hp...
There is a temp switch, but I think it just goes to the horn...(which I also discovered was disconnected)...hmmmm....
If it is heating up more than it should, then it can cause problems. I have a 9.9 that had a cooling problem, when it got warmer than normal it would shut down just like you stated, then it would start back up once it cooled down.
It had no safety shut off, just some component in the electrical system didn't like the added heat and would malfunction. I fixed the cooling problem and haven't had a problem with it since then (10 years).
I'll have it buttoned back up this weekend, probably take it out and try it again Sunday....(fingers crossed).... Hopefully I will have good news!!
I did notice after reading some of the posts here and another forum, that this engine would not pass the "touch test", but it would probably fry an egg pretty quick... I hope I have not caused any internal damage...
I will also be installing a telltale very shortly!!
There is a good chance that you need a new water pump impeller. Don't know if the engine sat for a few years or is someone ran it dry. I use one of those infrared thermometers for checking the heads. Just point, pull the trigger and get a instant digital readout. I think your motor should read between 140-170. I used to be a HVAC contractor before I retired so some of that stuff that fills my shop still comes in handy. A new impeller is a lot cheaper than new pistons and boring skuffed cylinders. Usually an easy job for anyone who doesn't have to turn a screwdriver both ways to see which way it tightens :-) Once you get over 115hp or so it can be a two person job just due to the weight of the lower end and making sure everything lines up.
There is a good chance that you need a new water pump impeller.
The installation of the tell tale should help with that diagnosis, is that correct?
I am not fortunate enough to have a temp gun laying around...(would be cool though)... I would think if the pressure is good from the tell tale, the impeller should be ok.....??
Yes and no, the tell tale will let you know there is water being pumped, but not how much, at what pressure, or if its flowing through the block and doing any cooling. Changing an old impellor, or one of unknown condition, is always a good idea, plus its easy and cheap.
77 Evinrude 55hp stalls suddenly
Re: 77 Evinrude 55hp stalls suddenly
Re: 77 Evinrude 55hp stalls suddenly
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