Simptom - Pees for about 5 seconds, then just dribbles.
Changed impeller, same thing.
Tested impeller (with a drill motor & ear muffs) and it works fine.
Connected a water source to the water inlet tube (where the water pump feeds motor) and it pees for about 5 seconds, then just dribbles. Dribble turns hot after a few seconds and head temp reaches 205 within a couple minutes.
Tried back flushing (thru the pee hole), then I get a solid pee for about 5 to 7 seconds then turns to dribble. I've had motor for about 3 years changing impeller, spark plugs, gear oil every year. Could this be thermostat related. I have not change that part since I've owned it.
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It was doing the same thing when the boat was in the water. That's when I noticed it was dribbling and the engine was getting hot. Sounds like I should pull the power head, change the thermostat and clear out the passages. My thought was that the impeller sent some small particle (Seaweed?) that is trapped in there and eventually finds the pee hole and plugs it.
You can pull the leg and hook a hose directly to the water inlet tube and give it a good flush. I would suggest pulling the stat to make sure you get good circulation. Pulling the power head will be perhaps more work than is required. You can also disconnect the pee tube and the water pressure should clear any debris that is lodged in it. Best of luck. Rick.
You can pull the leg and hook a hose directly to the water inlet tube and give it a good flush. I would suggest pulling the stat to make sure you get good circulation. Pulling the power head will be perhaps more work than is required. You can also disconnect the pee tube and the water pressure should clear any debris that is lodged in it. Best of luck. Rick.
Thanx Rick,
I was thinking that pulling the power head was required remove the tell tale (90 degree fitting) off.
When I connect a hose to the water inlet tube, it flows for only about 5 seconds before it's reduced to a dribble again. If I back flush it thru the Tell tale (Pee) hose, then connect the hose to the water inlet tube, if flows again for another 5 seconds before it goes back to a dribble.
I really appreciate your responses, cause I can sure use it
No problem. I have only worked on 9.9 and 15's that are late 70's early 80's. I have heard it is possible for a rubber grommet at the power head end of the water tube to weaken and collapse making flow difficult. I have not experienced it myself and the ones I've seen are rubber between the water tube and the top of the leg making collapse virtually impossible. Perhaps yours is collapsed but you would have to remove the power head just to confirm it. I would flush it first. You can even run a hose from the thermostat port to see if back flushing it that way flushes some debris. I would put a pail under the leg to see if anything does come out. TD uses weed eater string to push up the pee hole to get them cleaned out which is a really good idea as well. Keep trying and I'm sure you'll find something that gets you going again.
SilverZuk: yes yours has a stat. It is located at the very bottom of the head. You will see a small plate that is bolted to the head. It must be removed and it will expose the stat. You would also have to remove the cowl latch to have clearance to remove the plate.
A very interesting blog and one that interests me because my 1997 15 HP evin 4 stroke is not "peeing" very strong. Model E15FREUA. Are all of you talking about the 4 stroke motor? Lot of good advice in any event.
If you ever changed the impeller and noticed that part of a rubber vein was missing, that could be the culprit, as it could lodge inside, and water could get by for a bit until it tilts/flexes and closes off the port. I'd pull the t-stat, put it back together, and try to backflush it. You may have a really nasty looking t-stat that isn't opening correctly. You'll know immediately if this is the case!
No we were talking 2 stroke here. I have no experience with the four stroke but I for cooling purposes I would think they are the same. Here is a parts break down for your engine that might help you. Best of luck. Rick.
if flushing doest help,you likely have the grommet problem,you would need to remove the powerhead,i have been able to clear the problem by taking a long wire like that of a wire coat hanger,then smashing on end with a hammer,i also heat it with a torch so it helps smash it and hardens it,then i file it so ot has cutting edges,with a drill you can slowly cut away the collapsed rubber,worked many times,its a cheap quick fix,
thank you all for th great advice. I will attempt to clear the grommet as i believe that is where the blockage is, but not before I replace the T-stat and back flush it. Thx
if flushing doest help,you likely have the grommet problem,you would need to remove the powerhead,i have been able to clear the problem by taking a long wire like that of a wire coat hanger,then smashing on end with a hammer,i also heat it with a torch so it helps smash it and hardens it,then i file it so ot has cutting edges,with a drill you can slowly cut away the collapsed rubber,worked many times,its a cheap quick fix,
I am curious as to the diameter of the finished cutting tool. Thanks because I intend to carefully try this ...
you want it just smaller than the water tube inside diameter,proceed slowly ,because if the rubber grabs the unit you make you can twist off the wire from the drill torque ,then youhave to do it the hard way,once you feel the restriction back off and go up and down just a bit at a time not too fast,i actually used a piece of round stock,you can buy it at local big hardware stores,the larger dia ,the stronger,just needs to be smaller than the water tube dia,i cant remember if there are any bends,so that can be something to consider,ive used brazing wire too
Is this a saltwater engine? If so, the most likely problem is corrosion that is blocking the pee hole. I has a super 10(same engine block) that would do exactly what yours is doing; initial good water flow, then it stops and heats up. We had the engine in a tank of water, and used soft solid copper wire to chase out the fitting on the exhaust cover, then we removed the fitting and a bunch of white corrosion/oxide came out. Ultrimately we removed the head, thermostsat cover, and cleared them of corrosion, replaced the thermostat, seal, and new gaskets. You will find the water jackets around each cylinder become quite restricted with heavy white oxide and salts, use a drill to remove them.
Thanks to all. As suggested I backwashed with high pressure from the T-stat cover after removing and discarding old T-stat. Put a piece of 3/8 hose on fitting and used garden hose with nozzle set to heavy stream. Then washed upward from the water tube where lower unit bolts on. Bolted on the lower unit with new water pump kit and peeing much better...even at idle. Just need to wait for my new T-stat kit and I'm fishing again.
I just remembered that I wanted to ask if running the 15 hp evinrude without a Thermostat will reduce the strength of the tell tale stream. Thanks again
The tell-tale is before the thermostat, running without one will not affect the tell-tale.
Running without a thermostat can cause other problems, the engine runs at a cooler temp and does not burn oil/gas mixture efficiently and has been known to cause carbon build up if left out and run for long periods of time.
Thanks for the answer. I just thought that without a T-stat there may be less water pressure in the system and less power in tell tale as a result. My friend had suggested running without the T-stat but I will heed your advice and leave it in. Thanks
thx Daviet...I have learned a lot just following along. Cooling systems is one area that I did not understand too well. One last question. The tell tale on my evinrude 15 HP 4 stroke E15FREUA 1997 runs right through the base of the carburetor where it connects to both sides of a valve body where water obviously flows in one side and out the other before it exits the pee hole. What the heck is this valve body for and why is the tell tale hose routed right though it on the carb?
Thx
Anyone help with this question????
First of all Thx Daviet for all the advice...I discovered with some research that the valve body I'm asking about (above) is the accelerator pump on this model carburetor that works with a rod extending from the linkage to the spring loaded diaphram at the base of the carb. The two nipples shown on part 27 are where the in and out of the tell tale hose is connected. Why would water be routed through there and can this hookup to the accelerator pump in any way cause a weak water flow from tell tale.
In the attachment this pump is number 27,28,29,and 30
1991 Evinrude 15hp cooling 205 degrees
Re: 1991 Evinrude 15hp cooling 205 degrees
Re: 1991 Evinrude 15hp cooling 205 degrees
1983 Thundercraft 16.5 * 1983 Johnson 90 v4 * 1983 Johnson 9.9 * 1965 Evinrude 9.5 * 1955 Evinrude 7.5 * 1951 Viking 3 **Latest-76 Evinrude 15
Linear Mode
