t-stat or no t-stat

wideide

Cadet
Joined
Apr 5, 2009
Messages
29
I sofferd a overheat and scoard top cillinder took too local outbourd repair to get an opinion he said it wiil cost more than it worth to rebuild it he told me that the local indian tribes run the same motors and they get thing done on the cheep he said he sands down the cillinder walls recurfases the head and take out t-stat becuase prone to suck up stuff do to wate pickup location. this is a temp fix to buy time to look for new motor said it will last season or two if i leave it out sould i run seafoam evey couple tanks because of corbon build up from runnig cold.it a 35 hp johnson modle 35r76g
 

jonesg

Admiral
Joined
Feb 22, 2008
Messages
7,174
Re: t-stat or no t-stat

The expensive part of a shop doing repairs is the labor they charge you.

But it sounds like he's doing most of the labor required to replace a piston without replacing a piston.

You could do it yourself for less and install a new piston and have the block machined.
 

tashasdaddy

Honorary Moderator Emeritus
Joined
Nov 11, 2005
Messages
51,019
Re: t-stat or no t-stat

he is going to do a patch job, have you check compression? his story on the tstat is "BS". the water pump, gets blocked by weeds, not the tstat. 99% of over heating is failure of the impeller, or blocked pickup. if you can smooth the scoreing out with sand paper, it is not that bad.
 

jay_merrill

Vice Admiral
Joined
Dec 5, 2007
Messages
5,653
Re: t-stat or no t-stat

What TD said.

I love the one about the t-stat picking up stuff because of the water intake location. All outboards have the water intake in essentially the same place.

Taking the t-stat out where you live is also a really dumb idea, because the water is cold enough there to make your engine run cold without it. I have a couple of motors that do not have t-stats, just because I didn't feel like spending money on them, but I can get away with doing this, given the water temperatures where I live.

BTW - your guy is hopefully talking about "honing" the cylinder bores, not "sanding" them. As TD said, if they can be cleaned up by honing, they aren't that bad.

Given the information you have provided about this "mechanic," I suggest that you find another one.
 

tashasdaddy

Honorary Moderator Emeritus
Joined
Nov 11, 2005
Messages
51,019
Re: t-stat or no t-stat

exactly what is was trying to say. with out saying it.
 

wideide

Cadet
Joined
Apr 5, 2009
Messages
29
Re: t-stat or no t-stat

yes this is a patch job to buy me time to find another motor the best deels come in the off season the motor has a tandecy to suck up more stuff becuase the pick up is on the front of the lower end not the middle as in newer moters i sanded the cilider and all but 1 scrach came out used 220 and 400 grit whent ahead and put in t-stat yes that cillender will probly have lower compreshon as long as im able to get out and fish the summer no more going fast no real need have to wait for rain to stop to finish job let you now if it works
 

F_R

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jul 7, 2006
Messages
28,195
Re: t-stat or no t-stat

yes this is a patch job to buy me time to find another motor the best deels come in the off season the motor has a tandecy to suck up more stuff becuase the pick up is on the front of the lower end not the middle as in newer moters i sanded the cilider and all but 1 scrach came out used 220 and 400 grit whent ahead and put in t-stat yes that cillender will probly have lower compreshon as long as im able to get out and fish the summer no more going fast no real need have to wait for rain to stop to finish job let you now if it works

You are correct about one thing, the 1976 35hp is a "lemon". They couldn't survive a week here in Florida's weedy waters. The water inlet holes are out front, and too small. Any weeds at all, wrapped around the gearcase will cause it to overheat. We had to stop selling them for that reason.

Moving the inlet to the side in later years fixed the problem and then they were good motors.
 
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