[domint]

OK I think I know this. My manual says #1 cylinder is the top one on the starboard side. I know up from down and starboard from port. BUT... when I check the timing marking on the flywheel, the 0 deg TDC mark is in line with cylinder #4. The little needle with the adjustment slot is right at 0 degrees TDC when cylinder #4 is as close to the spark plug as it could be (spark plug removed for this "test"). Before I take this all apart, is there any chance that bottom port cylinder SHOULD be in line with 0 degrees TDC mark on flywheel? This motor is new to me (1978 model though - 2 stroke 115 V4 - 120 compression on all cylinders). It has never started. It will fire one pop here and there. Cleaned carbs and jets, new plugs. When it does pop, it seems to push back against the starter (makes it rotate "backwards" CCW from the direction that starter pushes it in.) That makes me think the timing somehow got off by 90 degrees? Maybe the guy before me tinkered and reassembled it incorrectly? The thing looks brand new - still factory paint on the anode. This is going on a Parker 18 center console, also new to me.

Please advise if you have more of a clue than I.

THANKS!!!

[ezeke]

Cylinders are numbered top to bottom as they attach to the crank.

...............1
2...............
...............3
4..............

Before anything, take the flywheel off and see if the key is sheared, then torque the flywheel nut to specifications: 100-105 Foot Pounds.

[domint]

EZEKE,

Thanks for your quick reply and for the sketch. So I am correct that the #1 cylinder is top starboard? Your sketch is looking at the motor from behind the boat, correct?

I will check for a sheared key and replace the flywheel per instructions in the manual. I'll also have to get my starter fixed, I think. The back rotation caused by timing being so far off has buggered up my bendix threads that pull the gear back down out of position. The gear doesn't always drop back down...

Sound correct?

Thanks again for your help!

[ezeke]

Correct, view from the rear.

The flywheel should kick the starter pinion downward as soon as the engine speed exceeds the starter speed.

The starter shaft needs to be very clean with no grease. Use a couple of drops of very light machine oil, like sewing machine oil.

[domint]

Wow - that got it going! Tremendous! The little woodruff key on the flywheel was sheared clean in half. I replaced it with an off the shelf size, but I think it's the wrong size. I may have to locate the magical proprietary Evinrude size for it. And I didn't torque it down to spec - I just tightened it. I'm just running it in the driveway on a hose flush for a few minutes at a time.

BUT THE WARNING BUZZER KEEPS GOING OFF AFER ABOUT 5 MINUTES.

Is that overheating? The water pump "seems" to be working pretty well. There is a very strong stream coming from the tube off the cylinder head. The stream is very cold, even when the buzzer goes off. I seem to remember a Yamaha motor I had that made that stream warm when operating. Is there a bleed procedure or something? Or is that buzzer entirely related to something else? Any help?

[ezeke]

Don't run that on anything but the OEM key. The key sets the base timing for the engine. Part # 307,480

Torque the flywheel nut every time before you run the motor - 105 Ft. Lbs.

Every time that key shears it wears the surfaces until the flywheel won't stay down. (besides, a 12 pound frisbee is not your friend).

The tell-tale just lets you know that the water pump is functional and won't tell you zip about the flow of water through the cooling passages of the engine.

Service your thermostats and check the water deflectors if it still overheats after the thermostats.

[domint]

Thanks EZ. I'll get the right key tomorrow. As for thermostat, where is it on this jewel? Are there multiple thermostats? I guess the only thing is to replace it/them?

Thanks for your quick and good advice!