1966 80HP Timing/Distributor Problems

OK. A little background for you. I have a 66 80 V4 with battery ignition (alternator, points, coil) and have been pretty successful at tuning up and giving it a good once-over. I purchased the boat last year, and spent the duration of the summer playing around with it and had pretty good luck with it. I have now done some tuning up and have come across a bit of a conundrum. I have a book, and have replaced the timing belt, and cleaned off the points with some fine sandpaper. According to the book the method of adjusting the points is to rotate the engine clockwise until the arm rides on the highest point of the cam pulley, and adjust with feeler gauge to 0.020in. I have done so, and have adjusted the advance linkage to align the distributor with the start tab on the upper cover. I've checked and rechecked, and everything's aligned per the book, but the problem I'm having now is: the engine now misses at low idle. Revving it up it is perfect, but the low end is bad. Prior to this, I cleaned and inspected the carbs, and everything was working fine. Possibly an adjustment of the low speed needles??? Other than that, the only 2 areas I'm thinking of would be either the coil ($90) or the distributor cap which is dirty, but not corroded ($173) and I'm not exactly prepared to blow the budget on a guess. I have replaced the condenser inside the distributor, the plugs, and the wires are new from last year. I've even checked what appears to be the piece of graphite on a spring pressing against the rotor (which is new as of last year) and don't see a problem with it either..


Any help any of you knowledgeable folks could be would make my day!!! I've about lost my mind, and as such, have run out of ideas to look at next!!

Re: 1966 80HP Timing/Distributor Problems

It could very well be the low speed needles. They take a bit of doing to get them correct.

I would inspect the points to make sure they are not burn't. They are pretty cheap to change. You did clean and gap both sets? You might hook up a timing light to verify you have steady spark on all wires. Sometimes the dissy rotor would crack slightly and allow the spark to ground, causing a loss of spark. It doesn't sound like this is your issue, but keep it in mind, especially if the motor has overheated. Make sure all ign wires are clean and connected tightly. Pay attention to the wire that connects the points. It can rub against the moving parts causing a short.

Re: 1966 80HP Timing/Distributor Problems

One more think, if you get desperate on the price of parts, I converted my magneto ignition to battery coil using a standard ford coil and ford condenser(.25mF). it worked pretty good.

Re: 1966 80HP Timing/Distributor Problems

Chris, thanks for the quick response. I was toying with the idea of changing over to a coil from a car. I'll check some old Ford parts, to start with that.. Yes, the low speed needles were adjusted and worked prior to the cleaning of the points, so I wonder if now I have a good spark, I'm wondering if it's igniting early due to excess fuel now. Just a guess. As far as the points go, I removed both assemblies last night, and took off the glazing with some careful passes of sandpaper. I noticed that on one of the points there is a small pit, which is no larger than the head of pin (maybe problems, maybe not) And yes, the wire going from one set to the other, to the condenser is almost brand new! So, I'm thinking spark or fuel. I'll try the coil tonight, and play with the carbs, and if it's neither, I'm left with acquiring a cap (crazy expensive, but I found one on eBay for $75 brand new, which is less revolting, but still crazy)

Once again, thanks for your help.. If you can think of anything I haven't or anything else, please don't hesitate to share your knowledge!! I certainly appreciate it!

Re: 1966 80HP Timing/Distributor Problems

and have adjusted the advance linkage to align the distributor with the start tab on the upper cover. I've checked and rechecked,

That doesn't sound right, the advance and throttle opening have to be simultanious syncronized (link-n-sync) the low speed adjustments effect idle and high speed jets are fixed. Does your carb look like this?

Re: 1966 80HP Timing/Distributor Problems

One problem that they sometimes developed was the distributor rotor would arc through to the distributor shaft. Electricity doing what is natural for it, then followed the path of least resistance at the moment.

You should at least pull the rotor off and see if it has a bit if dielectrec grease inside. If it doesn't, put a dab in it. Of course if it has already arced through that is like closing the barn door after the horse got out.

BTW, you can't see if it is arcing through without riging up a spark source to test it. We used to use our coil tester.

Another thing: There are two similar rotors that will fit. But only the correct one will work right. I'd have to get my book out to remind myself which is which. Unless somebody knows offhand.

Re: 1966 80HP Timing/Distributor Problems

Thanks for the continued response.

Eliminator: Yes, my carbs look like that with the fixed high speed needles. According to the book the adjustment of the linkage is as follows:

Return throttle linkage to closed, adjust throttle bar to line up the cam on the carb. then, pull the start tab on the control and align the arrow on the distributor to the start arrow on the upper gear cover, and lock in the distributor arm. I've done both steps, and see no other way I'd try to time that.

F_R: I have 3 different rotors, so I know what you're talking about. 2 of them are the stock part as referenced in the parts manual. The other has a wider electrode, and I tried that hoping I might see a difference, and it made NO difference. Not better, not worse. So it's getting it's spark. Interesting mention of the dielectric grease. My only question is: If I put dielectric on it, wouldn't that be asking for the electricity to ground itself?? Or would that be my way of ascertaining a bad rotor? Please keep in mind that the same rotor has been on it, and it has worked fine for last year.

Anybody have an idea as to how much resistance in ohms on the coil, so I can check and replace if necessary? I'm thinking that might be suspect, but I'm conflicted because it presents as a timing issue due to the smooth running at the high end.

What do you guys think??

Re: 1966 80HP Timing/Distributor Problems

With that timing adjustment you outlined it sounds like start position arrows line up when your throttle is pulled back to idle, mine is way off the start arrow at idle, when the start position arrow lines up on mine the throttle is already beyond idle and has dropped into the valley on the cam.
The way you describe it sounds like you would be full advance just off idle.
My manual doesn't mention start position arrows the screws on the link arm are set at full advance.
On mine the atart arrows also line up at the point the distributor hits the shift lever when applying throttle in neutral.

Re: 1966 80HP Timing/Distributor Problems

Thanks again eliminator for the reply. You're helping me more than you know!

OK. I have no shift lever, mine's electramatic, so there's a bit of difference, however, when I pull the start tab on the control box, it does pull on the throttle cam, and advance the distributor, I've set the linkage to line up the arrow on the distributor with the arrow on the gear cover that says "Start Position" and as long as turning the distributor counter-clockwise (while viewing from above) advances the timing, I think I'm in pretty good. If you say that your arrow doesn't align unless you've pulled the throttle, I may back it up a bit, as I'm thinking it may be too advanced under idle, which would help to explain the misfiring..

What do you think?? I'm ready to try just about anything.. I did purchase a coil last night, for a 12v VW Bug, fits nicely, and just had to lengthen the wires a bit to reach the top of the coil, but didn't get to test it last night because I was at home, and it was late! So I'm fairly confident it's not the spark, but merely, the timing of said spark that's the culprit!!


Thanks for keeping up with my ramblings guys, you have no idea how much of a great resource you guys and all the posts on this site have been to me!

Re: 1966 80HP Timing/Distributor Problems

I'm happy to help, but my outboard knowlege is limited to what I've learned here in the past six months or so, I've owned my 67 v4 evinrude for about 30 years and never had to take anything apart just general tune up stuff, that is until just recently I had a piston get badly scored and took the motor apart got in over my head and found a replacement powerhead with good compression and did a swaparoo, now I have lots of spare parts and learned alot about the motor. I didn't know you had electric shift but it sounds like it advances to the start position and applies some throttle but just in a different way than manual shift, it makes more sense to me now, somewhere you must have a frayed wire or something easy thats just hiding from you.

Re: 1966 80HP Timing/Distributor Problems

I wish it were that easy!!! The wiring harness has been completely rewired from the clip back! Most of the wiring was green mush last year, so I decided to redo all of it to spare putting splices and other such nonsense!!

On a somewhat sad note. I purchased a compression tester last night, and took readings.. Sadly, I got readings from: Starboard (1&3) 90 & 90. and Port: (2&4) 70 & 70.. Luckily for me, I checked the bypass covers, and the gaskets were wet, so I replaced them, and retorqued the bolts, and got 80 out of each, still bad, but not as horrible.. I'm thinking that may be the source of the misfire, as both cylinders weren't holding the compression in before the piston passed the intake bores.. So here's to hoping..

I can't thank you enough for your help.. I'm almost sure this won't be the last thing I consider, and have a question about..

On a side note, if you find someplace locally that I can acquire parts from, please pass on the info.. I see you live in Kent! I'm up in Cleveland, but close enough!!!


Thanks again.. Much!!!

Re: 1966 80HP Timing/Distributor Problems

Have you adjusted the slow speed needles as described in the FAQs?

Re: 1966 80HP Timing/Distributor Problems

Actually boater, I followed the instructions in my manual.. And is described as follows: turn the needles to closed, and back them out 1 complete turn, and then adjust accordingly 1/4 turns until the engine runs smoothly.

Is there a better way? If there is I'd certainly appreciate the help!!

Re: 1966 80HP Timing/Distributor Problems

i think that he still may have ro re clean and adjust his points again


now when cleaning using about 600 grit sand paper i believe and rub the points when there closed about 50-100 times then readjust

now make sure ur screws that holds the points in place is tight so they wont come loose. now it the adjustment is .020 make sure that .022 wont fit through it when .020 is just little reistance.

look into the coils points condosors thread in the faq section. great more info on it.


also check each spark plug see and make sure its not a intermittent spark and everyone.

how does the motor start up cold? and does it rev up easilly with out much of any hesisations?

Re: 1966 80HP Timing/Distributor Problems

Bluefire if your anything like me it's like I've got it running ok it's idling then it misses a beat but recovers yet I'll spend another 5 hrs re setting cleaning adjusting and then again get on the lake running great idling nice, but then She misses a beat and it's back to the garage again, crap pretty soon you have the screw threads worn out from adjusting, I'm now to the point of just getting over it and going fishing, but then again you don't want to messing on Erie without a 100% reliable motor unless you have back up.

By the way have you tried setting the points via the points break marks on the distributor body?

Re: 1966 80HP Timing/Distributor Problems

All right.. Got to run it last night thankfully..

Coolguy, spark plugs are good, used spark tester to ensure consistent spark on each plug. The points seem to be doing the trick as it is running smooth.. It starts decently when it's cold. My process to start has been choke on (electric choke doesn't work, and i don't care) start lever pulled, crank until it starts, choke off, return the start lever when the engine finally guns up.

Having run it last night, here's the latest. Pulling up the river to the lake going out, engine ran nice and smooth at low idle. Got out to Erie, and ran it around.. Laid into it nicely, and it performed better than I have ever seen.. Exceptionally well. Stopped a few times and idled it, smooth results. Upon our return to the river, it started bucking and idling rough, and the only way to smooth it out is to goose the throttle considerably, but with no wake zone, it's impossible to do that everytime it happens. So, my only other alternative is to pull the start lever halfway to increase throttle and timing (yup, there's that timing bit again) and that runs it until it smooths out, then I return the start lever, until it happens again. My ONLY idea now is a fuel issue, and I'm concentrating on the pump since I just rebuilt the carb. Any other ideas, or has anyone else had the same problem?

Eliminator, I have adjusted the points by lining up the tabs on the dist body. Although, it appeared to set the outer most points accurately, the inner pair did not seem to be on the lobe when I cranked it around to the other point break tab. I still used that at first, but the engine wouldn't run well. So that's when I read into the book and it mentioned just turning the engine until the arm was riding the top of the lobe (and on my cam, the outermost point of the lobe is marked with a crosshatch pattern and the word "top" within, so it was easy enough to try, and it worked)
And it sounds almost entirely like you experience the same with your engine as I do. If that's the case, I'm thinking it's just our engines' nature, and am willing to overlook it and press on. It's got the power band back, and I'm ok with that, if I have play around with it to idle on the return leg, then that's what I'll do!!!

Thanks for all the suggestions, I do appreciate them!!

Re: 1966 80HP Timing/Distributor Problems

and to smoothing them out also maybe stick a piece of white paper between them and see if there is any oil on them cause u dont want any oil on the points. but if ur sure about everything then should be fine


i know it may be a pet peeve that it may idle not so well. how about raising the idle just a hair. just make sure its aorund 750 i believe. should be good by hear if ur comfortable with it.

just that i went to the points cause i had a problem with my motor hard starting and now idling. turns out i had a intermient spark. so i clean adjusted my points again. starts usually on the thrid pull sometimes 2.

that ignition system is almost the same as my motor and for lots so thats how we know

Re: 1966 80HP Timing/Distributor Problems

bluefire91 said:

Actually boater, I followed the instructions in my manual.. And is described as follows: turn the needles to closed, and back them out 1 complete turn, and then adjust accordingly 1/4 turns until the engine runs smoothly.

Is there a better way? If there is I'd certainly appreciate the help!!

Click to expand...

Here's the instructions on needle adjustment. Basically, you turn the needle in and once it sneezes you turn the needle a 1/4 turn out.

Re: 1966 80HP Timing/Distributor Problems

so once it sneezes u back it out 1/4 and no more adjusting its done?

Re: 1966 80HP Timing/Distributor Problems

Evinrude Boater said:

Here's the instructions on needle adjustment. Basically, you turn the needle in and once it sneezes you turn the needle a 1/4 turn out.

Click to expand...

I've read that. But I'm confused on that! OK. By turning them in I'm now reducing the fuel into the engine, or so I'd think, and in which case, it starts revving up when I do that.

And I've read the FAQ about tuning the v4 with fixed high speed jets, and it states this:

HOW DO I ADJUST MY CARBS thread said:

Now, lowering the rpms of course, take the engine out of gear and set the throttle just to where the engine will stay running. Again, in segments of 1/8 turn, slowly start turning in one of the slow speed needle valves, waiting a few seconds between each turning for the engine to respond. As you turn the s/speed needles in, the rpms will increase..... and as it does, lower the rpms to where the engine will just stay running (otherwise the rpms will climb quite high). You will reach a point whereas the engine will either start to die out or it will spit back (sounds like a mjild backfire). At that point, back the needle valve out 1/4 turn. Repeat the process with the remaining slow speed needle. Again, at some point in that 1/4 turn out, you will find the smoothest setting. When finished, tighten the jam nut somewhat, then remove and reinstall the s/speed knobs correctly (right side up)

Click to expand...

But, it doesn't work quite like that for me. In fact, if I start from the needles closed and back them out 1 1/2 turns, it's all ok. If I turn them in in 1/8 turns, sometimes it revs up, and sometimes it misses!! It's making me mental!! Also, if I do just one carb at a time, it goes so out of sych that it'll stall entirely, so I can't do one at a time!

Any suggestions?? you guys have been great with all the help! I never thought I'd see 19 posts on just this thread alone!!!