Elgin 1958 keeps seizing

Can anyone help? We restored (or thought we did) an Elgin 7.5 and it runs for about 15 seconds then stops. Is it seizing? If it cools it will start right up again and then seize. Can't even pull the cord its so tight os its ot likely fuel. We ripped out down to a new head gasket and impeller too. Any trick to settling in a newly restored motor?

Re: Elgin 1958 keeps seizing

What fuel mix are you using, Fran? Actually sounds like no lubrication. You should be using a 24:1 mix.

Please explain what you did that you call "restoring".

Re: Elgin 1958 keeps seizing

does it have a recoil? 15 seconds is too short for it to get that hot. recoil may be hanging up and binding.

Re: Elgin 1958 keeps seizing

Sounds like a "no lube" issue to me as well. 15 seconds is a long time to run dry.
Welcome to iboats

Re: Elgin 1958 keeps seizing

My Dad was the brains behond the restoration but he put a whole new bottom end in with water pump and new impeller. He pulled the carb and rebuilt it. Also pulled head and put in a new gasket (custom made due to age at somewhere outside Chicago??) and essentially took the entire thing apart, cleaned it and reassembled.

He got the original owners manual from the web and bought all Elgin replacement parts via the web. Man I hope it is something simple. Good to hear that it is not a seizing thing (perhaps). Is there an OIL pump?

He was using a 16:1 ratio I think as that is what the book suggested. Can't thank you guys enough. This is surprised to go on the back of a 1962 Sea King aluminum row boat that I am restoring - right down to the new mahogany seats and white oak transom. Interlux paint for aluminum is sure expensive.

Many thanks again!

Fran

Re: Elgin 1958 keeps seizing

No oil pump.Isn't likely to seize at 16:1 8ozs. per gallon. Isn't likely an overheat.As suggested something external like the recoil.(I would pull it and crank with a rope.Perhaps something under the flywheel is grabbibg or binding.
The drive shaft perhaps.You might check the plugs for evidence of water.
Not likely but perhaps some sort of hydro lock.

Re: Elgin 1958 keeps seizing

Thanks again for all the help everybody but my Dad has now started diassembling due to the following occurrences:

1) After it ran for 15 secs and froze, he checked all things related to the recoil. Seems to work fine and bearings are all intact. He removed to hand start with a rope.
2) He could spin the recoil counterclockwise but not clockwise until completely cool.
3) He said that there are 40-some "Needles??" in the crank shaft to outdrive section that might be binding?
4) He claims he hears a metal on metal whine right before it shuts off. He has only tried to start it 4 or 5 timnes for fear of ruining it further.

Is it likely a good place to look if it might be related to the transfer connection from motor to prop??

Re: Elgin 1958 keeps seizing

If you siezed it once, you damaged it. If you siezed it again, you damaged it some more. How many times did you do it now?

I suspect the needle bearings. Something is not right in there. He is doing the right thing by going back in for another look.

EDIT: Needle bearings, the type in a thin shell, have to be pressed on the lettered end of the shell when removing or reinstalling. If you press on the other end, you will destroy it and it will sieze. Along the same line of thought, if for some reason it is too tight going into the bore, it will collapse the shell just enough to make it sieze. Needle bearings cannot be run with zero clearance.

Elgin 1958 keeps seizing - need updated info

Elgin 1958 keeps seizing - need updated info

Hello Again:

Well my Dad took the entire engine apart (hence the rgiinal question about what constitues a restoration!) we did n't go far enough obviously. A couple questions if you folks are up to it:

1) The model we have is a 577-58-781. Anything we can find ends in 772. Is it possible that this 7.5 was made by McCullough and not West Bend? When did that change occur?
2)The top cylinder appeared to be getting less lubrication. The seat for the needles is a bit scarred but will burnish out? Given the tolerance levels in the manual we have that states from .0015 (new) to .00325 (outside) can we achieve this if we take to a machine shop or is it likely too far gone? I guess they will tell us?
3) If # 2 doesn't work can you 2) buy new needles? or b) buy "oversized" needles to compensate for re-machining the seat?
4) It looks like we also need a new bearing for the upper bearing cage. Any idea where we can get that? I hope this site since you guys have been so helpful.
5) What might cause the lack of flow to the upper cylinder? the piece that the carbeurator mounts to appears to have some sort of a bypass or diverter but we can't find that in the manual. I guess if we have it ripped apart this far might as well keep going.
6) Is there a short block assembly that we can buy and just replace the whole thing so that we start new on that end?

Eventually we will get 'er running and get some new life back in this cool old motor. Thanks Aagain for all the help!

Re: Elgin 1958 keeps seizing - need updated info

Re: Elgin 1958 keeps seizing - need updated info

thats 571.58781 57 7.5 built by West Bend.Change didn't occur till 59.
571 indicates West Bend.
My experience has been that if a twin ,single carb is runnung lean it shows
on the upper first.Make sure when adjusting that you set it as far toward rich as possible without affecting performance."needles" are you refering to the
Upper main roller bearing?My manual doesn't give any clearances for the roller bearings only the friction bearings of the center and lower main.0.0025 -
.0035.(center) .0015-.0025 (lower).If the upper main is bad the seal may be bad which could also cause the upper to be lean.
Chrysler bought West Bend in 65.Early Chrysler parts may may fit.
You may want to look for a good used powerhead.