I pulled my carb apart to unstick the choke that was froze and now I have no clue how to set the float level, and really I'm pretty in the dark all together. I took a few days to figure out how the choke assembly works, but until I know how the pin is held in place, I'm stuck.
I did get some responses on my other post, but I'm not sure if the answers applied to this motor. I'm confused because I'm told that there was a wire or something similar that held the pin in place on the floats arm.The thing is there is a hole in the floats arm that I can't figure out a purpose for because the hole does not line up with the hole the pin is suppose to go up into.
The only piece of the carb unaccounted for is a peace of wire that has an id tag attached to it. Could this be the missing link?
well I need a diagram, if someone could show me a diagram of the assembly , specifially the float section, I would greatly appreciate it.
thanks, the motor has low low low hours on it and it incredible for its age, I bought it for 50 bucks and can't believe my luck.
Here's an idea........Take the carb to your boat dealer that deals in Johnson parts (most do) and ask them what part you need then order it from them.
Ask them how to attach the part as well.
Your problem is so easy to fix they can explain it to you in 5 seconds.
Like you were told countless times at AOMCI - The 1st thing you should do is to buy a repair manual that covers this motor. Even if you get a Seloc manual that covers several different models & years - it would be better than nothing & you would have the diagrams you need to sort things out. It would be the best $25 you ever spent ......
Like you were told countless times at AOMCI - The 1st thing you should do is to buy a repair manual that covers this motor. Even if you get a Seloc manual that covers several different models & years - it would be better than nothing & you would have the diagrams you need to sort things out. It would be the best $25 you ever spent ......
You can buy a lot of toilet paper for the price of a Seloc or Clymer manual and it is far more absorbant. Get a manual, Yes but get an OMC manual. Worth every penny.
__________________
1985 Doral 164 1985 140hp Johnson EZ loader single axle trailer all = a whole lot of family fun !!!!
I agree with you 100% on the fact that the factory manuals are far better, in fact I have several. I also have several Clymer & Seloc manuals. No disrespect intended but, any information is better than no information. This poster stated in another thread that he didn't want to spend the money on a manual - I thought that a cheaper manual might be in order. It would at least give him a clue & with a little common sense, a lot of the information he needs. Just MHO .....
I agree with you 100% on the fact that the factory manuals are far better, in fact I have several. I also have several Clymer & Seloc manuals. No disrespect intended but, any information is better than no information. This poster stated in another thread that he didn't want to spend the money on a manual - I thought that a cheaper manual might be in order. It would at least give him a clue & with a little common sense, a lot of the information he needs. Just MHO .....
I don't disagree with you on the "any info is better than none" thing. You just get what you pay for.
__________________
1985 Doral 164 1985 140hp Johnson EZ loader single axle trailer all = a whole lot of family fun !!!!
i am going to need someone to do it for me or demonstrate. I can probable find somebody to work on it for $20 / hour until its running if I'm lucky.
seriously your right it probably is an easy fix and im the moron who thought i could throw it back together without help. once this problem is solved though i will be able to fix these things soundly. ive don't a lot of other things to these motors and im pretty handy with a wrench.
anyways, i do have a new problem that should be simple. i think my shear pin snapped today when i was on the water and hit a rock with my prop.
we all need to support iboats marine store when ever possible. you get, competitive prices. fast shipping, top notch customer service. also it provides us, this great FREE forum.
cheap is not the word, its called monetary efficiency.
EDIT: Rude insult deleted.
Wow
I also use the net all the time to find answers to not so obvious issues. However, time is money and I also keep manuals at the ready for more often needed information.
Use of any and all available resources is the wisest move.
Last edited by JB : June 1st, 2009 at 02:13 PM.
Reason: deleted insult in quote
For someone that is so smart that help set up this website; and may I quot what you wrote in another forum
"banned and shipped off to iboats. a website might i add that was of my own creation. yes a unique website indeed. unique"
Yes these are your own words
You should are needing a lot of help. Also for someone that set up this website you sure are cheap.
i am going to need someone to do it for me or demonstrate. I can probable find somebody to work on it for $20 / hour until its running if I'm lucky.
seriously your right it probably is an easy fix and im the moron who thought i could throw it back together without help. once this problem is solved though i will be able to fix these things soundly. ive don't a lot of other things to these motors and im pretty handy with a wrench.
anyways, i do have a new problem that should be simple. i think my shear pin snapped today when i was on the water and hit a rock with my prop.
it just spins in place. anyone??
This guy is full of it...How did he run his motor when the float is not installed in the carb.
He is just jerking everybody around for his kicks