'86 4.3L OMC Cobra Shifting

SteveDavis

Seaman
Joined
Jun 15, 2007
Messages
74
Hey everyone!

Well here we go again, another question about shifting on an OMC. Here is my spin on my problem. I have had the boat for a few years and just last year I have began to have problems with my boat stahling while shifting in to Fwd. It does not happen all the time, but enough to be very annoying. My thought it is a ESA problem and plan on replacing soon(any help on finding one is appreciated). Before this came about I noticed that the boat is hard to get into nuetral from the forward gear. It is even a little hard to get from N to R. On the other hand N to F, is easy. No grinding occurs at anytime. One last thing, my brother-in-law, owned the boat prior to me. He says it has shifted tough for as long as he remembers. It also appears that my shift cable has been replaced, because it is red. How do I know what is wrong. I have read a ton of threads here and read the Hastings information. I also have a Seloc and OEM service manual.

Help please.
 

danond

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Jun 11, 2007
Messages
1,118
Re: '86 4.3L OMC Cobra Shifting

Your solution, sir:

For the ESA:

1) Start the engine (on muffs, water running!!)
2) Open engine compartment
3) Manually click the ESA switch. If engine stumbles, ESA is working. If engine does not stumble, ESA is not working. Diagnose as appropriate.

For the control shift cables:

1) Disconnect throttle and control shift cables from the engine
2) Test drag on all cables. If any drag is present, replace the cable
3) Buy a new transom shift cable
4) Pull the outdrive and pivot housing
5) Install and adjust the cables per the manual
6) Re-install the outdrive
7) Enjoy effortless Cobra shifting
 

Gary H NC

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Dec 1, 2005
Messages
8,972
Re: '86 4.3L OMC Cobra Shifting

Even though the lower cable is red and is the updated style cable it could still be really old.
Best bet is to pull the drive and replace it.
Do all the adjustments exactly as stated in the factory manual.

You really need the factory manual for this.The Seloc and Clymers do not detail the procedure near enough.
The factory manual is step by step with pictures.

Usually at least 50 bucks on Ebay but here is a heck of a deal!!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1986...907Q2em263QQcategoryZ26453QQitemZ160333062546
 

SteveDavis

Seaman
Joined
Jun 15, 2007
Messages
74
Re: '86 4.3L OMC Cobra Shifting

For the control shift cables:

1) Disconnect throttle and control shift cables from the engine
2) Test drag on all cables. If any drag is present, replace the cable

So what is meant by #2? How do you know how much drag there should be, if you are new to fixing a shift cable? Also, when the boat is off, should the gas lever have the same amount of tension on it as when the boat is on?

Thanks again,
Steve
 

Gary H NC

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Dec 1, 2005
Messages
8,972
Re: '86 4.3L OMC Cobra Shifting

For the control shift cables:

1) Disconnect throttle and control shift cables from the engine
2) Test drag on all cables. If any drag is present, replace the cable

So what is meant by #2? How do you know how much drag there should be, if you are new to fixing a shift cable? Also, when the boat is off, should the gas lever have the same amount of tension on it as when the boat is on?

Thanks again,
Steve

All of those specs are in the manual...how much drag,adjustment,ect.....
Get the book,Your boat will thank you and so will your wallet from not having to have the lower rebuilt.
 

SteveDavis

Seaman
Joined
Jun 15, 2007
Messages
74
Re: '86 4.3L OMC Cobra Shifting

As I mentioned in my original message/post, I do have the OEM service manual and the Seloc. I have not seen it in there. I will continue to look.
 

danond

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Jun 11, 2007
Messages
1,118
Re: '86 4.3L OMC Cobra Shifting

You need the cable to be completely free from both the control and the engine, then use a fish scale to test how much pull/drag is required before the cable will move, and how much is required to move the cable core through it's full operational distance/length. That tells you beyond any doubt whether the cable jacket and core are good or bad.

For the transom shift cable it shouldn't be more than 2.5lbs. 2.5 is OK, 3 is bad.

For the other 2 cables that go to the control, use your best judgement. They're much longer, so drag will be higher, but shouldn't require much force to move at all.

Cables are cheap. Gearsets are not. Replace the cables if there's any doubt.
 
Top