Re: removing rivets
The rivet pictured there, for the most part is a "solid rivet". There are a few "vaiations" of these, but fwiw, its a solid rivet. Look REALLY close at the head, maybe even knock the paint off it. There should be a dimple. If not, no big deal. Eyeball as close as you can to the center, and start your drill bit, or use a punch for your center mark. This is not as critical as you think. If you use a center punch, you already have your starting pint for your drill bit. If you use a drill bit to mark your center, after you chuck your bit in the drill, center it on the head, and twist the chuck with your hand to start it. Adjust as necessary.
The idea here, is to drill through the head of the rivet, and no more than 2/3 of the way into the shank of the rivet. Use a drill bit that is 2/3 the size of the body (shank) of the rivet. Once you do this, the head of the rivet should be weak enough to pop it off. Once the head is removed, use a punch that fits in the previously drilled hole, and punch it out. Doing it this way, should theoritically not effect the original size of the hole, so you can use the same size rivet.
Those types of rivets do not use your typical squeeze rivet gun. (rivet guns that are used for "blind rivets") They use a gun that is basically a pneumatic hammer, with a bit that fits the head of the rivet.
Use this gun on the head, and a chunk of steel on the tail of the rivet. When you squeeze the trigger and apply the steel to the tail, it "smashes" the rivet, causing a "mushroom" on the tail. This mushroom acts like the nut, on a nut and bolt. Dont forget to put a "dallup" of 5200 on it before you insert the rivet. (I like that word, dallup)
Heres what the tail should look like.
The ones on the inside of yours look a little too "smashed". My 1975 starcraft looks similar to yours so dont freak. There are formulas, calculations, procedures for all this, but thats for airplanes. We are working on boats..... Just make sure it dont leak.
On a blind rivet
The rivet gun you use, pulls the center of the rivet together, effectively "mushrooming" the end of the rivet. Because of this centerpiece, that is why you dont use it where water intrusion may incur, because of the possibility of water entry.
Check Ebay for rivet guns. You can get "air chisels" cheap, at H depot, or various tool stores cheap. Scrounge the flea bay for the chisel part of it, Be somewhat critical of this piece, because you want to fit it to the head of your rivet. Also look for those used tool stores in your area. Those are always cool to browse.
Biggest difference IMO, between an air chisel and a rivet gun, is the trigger on a rivet gun, you have a little more control.......
Sorry for the long winded post, its Friday, I had a long day and a few drinks.......
This week at work had been all engine stuff. Next week we have some metal work, and will try to get some pics of the process. This is not the perfect way to do it, and it may be a little overboard and time consuming, but works almost flawless every time, and leaves little margin for error...... once yo get the hang of it.
. The head of rivets in my boat don't have that dimple you mention. The heads are smooth. I'm a day or two away from needing to drill some rivets out and don't want to screw it up. Any suggestions? Also, can you recommend a economical pneumatic rivet gun?
