Starter Issues

I had a buddy of mine bring over this boat with a starting issue. It would start every now and then but sometimes nothing at the starter. tested is and condemned the solonoid, replaced it. To be honested, had my brother-in-law replace it. Now nothing, put the old one back on and still nothing, its a 4 post solonoid B+ going in B+ going out and 2 smaller terminals 1 with a 12V from ignition, the other Im confused with its 5V w/ key on but key in cranking position is 12V, Dont work on boats that often maybe someone can help?

Re: Starter Issues

90% of starter problems are bad connections. remove and clean both ends of the battery cables, so that they are shiney, also the cable from the solenoid to starter. check for nicks in the cables. and make sure the connectors are on the wire good. the cable tend to corrode from the inside out, if nicked, corroded wires, and connections, heat up and cause resistance to the follow of electricity, thus the starter doesn't get enough. you can also take jumper cable pos battery post to large post on starter. with a good connection, the engine should spin. then if the starter is good clean everything and retest. then trouble shoot solenoid. starters can be rebuit at a starter/alternator shop, much cheaper than a new one.

also have the battery load tested at the auto parts store, free, i've had new batteries go bad


solenoid wiring, battery + to right side of soleoid, solenoid to starter left side of solenoid. pos to ignition on big post right side,( should have red inline fuse holder, pos from ignition, small right post, ground small left post.

Re: Starter Issues

jayjay32 said:

I had a buddy of mine bring over this boat with a starting issue. It would start every now and then but sometimes nothing at the starter. tested is and condemned the solonoid, replaced it. To be honested, had my brother-in-law replace it. Now nothing, put the old one back on and still nothing, its a 4 post solonoid B+ going in B+ going out and 2 smaller terminals 1 with a 12V from ignition, the other Im confused with its 5V w/ key on but key in cranking position is 12V, Dont work on boats that often maybe someone can help?

Click to expand...

You guys did what most people do so don't feel bad.

#1, you don't say what motor you are working on.
#2, you say you tested the solenoid and mention "B+", so I will assume you know a little bit about electricity, but still the chances are that there was nothing wrong with the solenoid.
#3, did you run out and buy a car solenoid? They look like outboard solenoids but are different. Putting the car solenoid in there will destroy the safety switch..if it has one (remember we don't know yet)
4. an outboard solenoid works like this: The start switch feeds 12V to one of the small terminals. That is one end of the solenoid's pull-in coil. The other end of the coil connects to the other small terminal. That terminal goes to the safety switch (if it has one), which completes the primary circuit ground. If no safety switch, it is connected to ground.
5. on a car solenoid the second small terminal gets connected to bypass the ballast resistor. It shoots a full 12V whallop to the igniton coil. Using it on an outboard shoots a 12V whallop to the safety switch and burns it up.
6. back to the outboard solenoid. If that is what you have, and if you are getting 12V on both small terminals when you turn the key, the safety switch is shot. Or the terminal is not otherwise grounded. OK, so now you are asking, why doesn't the 12V burn up the safety switch like the car one does? Because when you energize the circuit, the resistance of the coil drops the voltage to zero at the grounded safety switch. The car solenoid's coil is not in series and does not drop the voltage. Assuming you know about electricity. If not, you now have an education. And my fingers are tired.

EDIT: I might as well go the last step. The 5V with the key on is leakage from somewhere. Probably dirt or moisture. Don't worry about it.

Re: Starter Issues

I will argue just a bit with Frank. He is correct when he describes a car solenoid. However, I have used them with success. A car solenoid typically grounds through the bracket it mounts with. To sucessfully use one the wire that runs from the safety switch needs to be attached to the bracket that holds the solenoid to the box or motor whichever the case may be. Then the safety switch will ground the solenoid when activated. Of course all this assumes the bracket in not being grounded by attachment to the motor or the box. (which it usually is defeating the safety switches purpose)

Re: Starter Issues

just use the correct solenoid, and don't worry about the rest.

Re: Starter Issues

I agree TD when you can find them. I've had a couple here lately that were na

Re: Starter Issues

Well, thanks everyone for all your help. It did end up being the safety switch. I didn't realize the other smaller terminal would be a ground, and when I saw 5V to it, it through me off. In car wiring a 5V reference is extremely common, I wouldn't think with a '64, and ya I thought the bracket was the ground which is why I added a ground wire to it. But your info was extremely helpful... too bad shes not mine or I'd be the one on lake this weekend!