1957 lark help!!

ddycheeks · Apr 23, 2009

hello im new to this so here are a few questions i have, how do i replace the impeller, also how much will a small air leak in the gas tank affect the engine? i bought it with a shell lake dart 59 for $600 im trying to restore it on a budget haha. I took it out yesterday and it was a pain to get started (pull start, the starting solenoid or relay or whatever it is was blown when i got it) and when i did get it started it would sputter then die i adjusted the low carb setting got it to run and took it out for a while then it died once i lowered the rpm when i entered the no wake zone (yay for paddles haha). i replaced the fuel lines resealed the gas can and here is one final question i knoticed the carb settings have a stop on the intake but when i got it the high speed was missing the stop so i need to know what are the settings to put them to so i can get her running good again? for instance high needs 1.5 turns out from closed thanks in advance for all of your help.
chris

coolguy147 · Apr 23, 2009

Re: 1957 lark help!!

ok well first off ehck compression in the motor u need to know whether the motor is acually worth working on

ddycheeks · Apr 23, 2009

Re: 1957 lark help!!

like i said im a newbie how do i do that?

F_R · Apr 23, 2009

Re: 1957 lark help!!

With a compression gage. Screw it in the spark plug holes and crank the engine till you get the highest reading. Oh, and on the 35, first disable the compression relief, that flat bar on top of the recoil starter.

It probably has bad coils. Since you admit to knowing nothing about what you are doing, you really really need to start off with a good shop manual. You need a flywheel puller and torque wrench to work on the ignition (coils).

The normal high speed needle opening is only about 1/2 turn or less. 1 1/2 turns on the slow speed.

ddycheeks · Apr 23, 2009

Re: 1957 lark help!!

ok thanks where ca i get the manual and do you by any chance know how much an air leak in the tank would affect the motor? i also noticed a small crack near the fuel inlet on the the fuel line would that cause it to bog at low rpm when it ran just fine at wide open throttle?

freddyray21 · Apr 24, 2009

Re: 1957 lark help!!

that motor unless it has been converted to a fuel pump has a pressure tank (two lines) it will never run right with an air leak. Even if it had a fuel pump it won't run right with an air leak. You will never be able to get the carb adjusted right. Manuals are available for purchase online.

jay_merrill · Apr 24, 2009

Re: 1957 lark help!!

If you have any friends that like to work on outboards, now would be a good time to buy them a few beers!

Otherwise, I suggest searching the Evinrude/Johnson forum here for threads on fixing/maintaining models that are the same, or substantially the same as your engine. With some reading, you will learn a great deal about what to do to get your motor going. There is also a thread called "awakening a sleeping motor," that is quite good. It doesn't pertain specifically to your outboard, but you will still come away from it with some really good info.

Be aware, however, that the Evinrude Larks of later years are different than your motor in many respects. They are among the "superquiet" models that OMC made over a period of years. While there are a handful of parts that are interchangeable with your '57, most parts will not be.

Welcome to iboats!

tashasdaddy · Apr 24, 2009

Re: 1957 lark help!!

manuals outboardbooks.com or searayman13 on ebay.

F_R · Apr 24, 2009

Re: 1957 lark help!!

I know I am going to catch heck for saying this, but the factory manuals are written primarily for the dealer's shop and assume you have a basic knowledge of what you are doing. For the novice, the Seloc will be good enough and cheaper. It is well illustrated and explains a lot of stuff that the factory assumes you know. Yes, I used to be a dealer mechanic, and yes I have the Seloc manual right here in front of me. Get one right here at iboats
http://www.iboats.com/Johnson_Evinr...4391555--**********.559949193--view_id.214854

coolguy147 · Apr 24, 2009

Re: 1957 lark help!!

well if u dont know much about anything id get a manuel. good start.

u know what spark plugs r? i believe u need a 13/16 socket wrench to take out the plugs since everything is covered up by compression stuff u cant use a crecsent.

get ur self a nice good compression guage form auto zone or somewhere else where its a screw in and has a adjustable hose on it. its will run around 40 dollars.

now if u have a crack in ur fuel tank lines. they all need to be replaced. ur fuel lines in the motor and out all need to be replaced

freddyray21 · Apr 24, 2009

Re: 1957 lark help!!

F_R said:
I know I am going to catch heck for saying this, but the factory manuals are written primarily for the dealer's shop and assume you have a basic knowledge of what you are doing. For the novice, the Seloc will be good enough and cheaper. It is well illustrated and explains a lot of stuff that the factory assumes you know. Yes, I used to be a dealer mechanic, and yes I have the Seloc manual right here in front of me. Get one right here at iboats
http://www.iboats.com/Johnson_Evinr...4391555--**********.559949193--view_id.214854

I personally agree Frank. I don't own any factory manuals, but three or four generic ones. The factory manual is more detailed, but like you said assumes you know a bit

wbeaton · Apr 24, 2009

Re: 1957 lark help!!

I have and use both. I find the factory manual much better as the Seloc/Clymer try to cover several years/models all at once. It can be very confusing for a novice when the manual says "make sure you remove the ____ before disconnecting ____ or BAD NEWS" and it turns out the item(s) in question were never even offered on his model/year. If I had to chose one I'd get the factory manual unless that manual is the 1950's Evinrude factory manual. That thing can be surprisely useless. Or at least the two I have can be.

jay_merrill · Apr 24, 2009

Re: 1957 lark help!!

F_R said:
I know I am going to catch heck for saying this, but the factory manuals are written primarily for the dealer's shop and assume you have a basic knowledge of what you are doing. For the novice, the Seloc will be good enough and cheaper.

LOL! Blasphemy, I tell you!

ddycheeks · Apr 24, 2009

Re: 1957 lark help!!

thanks for the help all im going to take her out again to see if the fuel line change and resealing of gas tank does anything also my buddy will be cleaning my carb for me thanks guys!!

ddycheeks · Apr 26, 2009

Re: 1957 lark help!!

ok i did a compression check got 90 psi what should it be at? also how do i change the gear oil? here is the issue now, i got it to run good but it wont go to full throttle i adjusted the stop on the throttle bar and will try it again tomorrow any other ideas? i noticed some oil coming from what i think is a pressure relief?located above the spark plugs it moves when i try to pull start it what do i need to do to fix that? if the jets are not completely clean is there a fuel additive or anything i can use to clen them out? thanks again for all the help.
chris

tx1961whaler · Apr 26, 2009

Re: 1957 lark help!!

90 psi is OK.
The pressure relief bar is supposed to move when you try to pull start it.
The carb must be removed in order to clean the jets.

jay_merrill · Apr 26, 2009

Re: 1957 lark help!!

You may just need to adjust the high speed needle valve. If it set either too rich or too lean, the motor will not run at full power. Run the boat at WOT (wide open throttle) and adjust for peak rpm. Be sure that the engine is fully warmed up before doing this.

Once the HS needle valve is set, adjust the low speed needle to achieve an rpm of about 750, with the engine in forward gear.

If these adjustments don't achieve the desired result, you may need to do a carb rebuild.

lindy46 · Apr 26, 2009

Re: 1957 lark help!!

Compression on my '57 Lark runs 120-125psi. I'd try spraying some Seafoam into the cylinders and let is set overnight, and check compression again. May help. The drain screw for the lower unit is on the bottom - remove it and the vent screw on the side of the lower unit. Let the old oil drain. Then refill from the bottom until oil overflows out the vent hole. Replace the vent screw without removing the oil pump from the drain hole. Then quickly remove the oil pump and re-insert the drain screw in the bottom hole. Make sure you replace the seals on both drain and vent screws.

tx1961whaler · Apr 26, 2009

Re: 1957 lark help!!

lindy46 said:
Compression on my '57 Lark runs 120-125psi. I'd try spraying some Seafoam into the cylinders and let is set overnight, and check compression again. May help. The drain screw for the lower unit is on the bottom - remove it and the vent screw on the side of the lower unit. Let the old oil drain. Then refill from the bottom until oil overflows out the vent hole. Replace the vent screw without removing the oil pump from the drain hole. Then quickly remove the oil pump and re-insert the drain screw in the bottom hole. Make sure you replace the seals on both drain and vent screws.

and DON'T take out the phillips head screw!

ddycheeks · Apr 26, 2009

Re: 1957 lark help!!

ok will do thanks again also does anyone have a part number for the fuel filter? or can i just replace the whole thing with a different filter set? the reason i ask is my filter is black and when the engine is running the whole filter is empty and the fuel barely fills the bottom (i looked at the glass bulb thing while it was running) does anyone know if this is normal? thanks again for all your help
chris

1957 lark help!!

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