My Mariner 200, carb engine, will not start after it warms up. It's not running hot and seems to be getting fuel, have been pointed to switch box's and/or stator. Am checking stator today, how do I check the switch boxes? Electrical parts are non returnable for the most part so I want to avoid buying something I don't need.
Any advice is appreciated.
Checked stator and found 0 ohms to ground (out to 4 decimal places) which, according to manual, indicates a bad stator. Looking across the yellow leads I see .0004 ohms which means little to me but may mean something to an expert mech. Now I am going to take the flywheel off and repalce the stator' any advice is welcome.
I replaced the stator on my 60 last summer. My problem was similar -would run fine for a few minutes (up to WOT), then not run at anything above an idle (but would start back up). I'm thinking switch box on my engine.
Your readings do sound like a bad stator. Just for comparison, maybe check the new stator before it's installed and compare values to your existing stator.
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The fleet:
-1979 18'6" Starcraft Super Sport, 1985 Mercury 60hp http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=260400
-1994 Kawasaki Super Sport X1 (750cc)
-1998 Arctic Cat Tigershark 640L
-Sevylor Voyager 9'2", Tanaka 1.75hp
Great idea, just did that. New stator checks same as old stator, lucky I had not mounted it yet and can return. I talked to parts guy and he relayed to mech who said that the Sealoc test seldom gives valid results. Just for kicks I looked through my Sealoc manual for wiring diagrams and found page 5-93 showing a carbureted eng with fuel injectors. BEWARE SEALOC and read it well. A friend is returning from Merc Recert School in a couple of days, I'll wait!
AS I said, any and all advice is welcome.
You might consider using a spark tester to determine which cylinders (if any) do not have a good spark when the motor will not start. The next test is to move some ignition related wiring or components around to see if the missing spark moves with the component or stays with the cylinder. I often find this approach to troubleshooting easier to start with than using a meter to bench test ignition components, especially when the ignition only fails when the motor is warm. Just my thoughts...
Mech has returned from Merc school re-cert, he passed again. This is the first time he has seen my eng, he says my '95 ish Mariner started life as a '88ish and has been recoweled and modified. Cory in Palm Beach will LIE to sell a eng. However, the unit looks ok so far and parts are cheaper for this (thease models) model. The unit runs well in the tub and starts easily cold and at running temp, mech is going to run diagnoistics (whew,got a finger cramp on that one) next week and see what he can find.
As always,any advice is welcome
Mariner Offshore 200 will not start warm
Linear Mode
