The 75HP Mariner (1989) has 3 carbs and runs perfect once it has been in the water for a short period. To give a few more details, the engine will go weeks without being run. It will run on muffs and idles great. Put it in the water and throw the fuel to it and it runs but floods, getting only about 8 mph at full throttle. Back it back to a third throttle, it runs perfect. Bulb, hose and fuel filters as well as spark plugs have been replaced. Starts fine, idles fine. If you will run it for a few minutes, 5 - 10, at 1/3 throttle, shut it down, allow it to sit a few minutes, fire it up it will pick up and run like perfect getting around 42 mph at full throttle. Occasionally, after it runs at full trottle, it will develop the same reduced power, flooding smell issue. Once again, back off the trottle to 1/3, run it a few minutes, shut it down and it will once again run perfect possibly for the rest of the trip. It seldom develops the issue once it starts running correctly. This engine has never stranded me and it has always started fine.
I run seafoam in the fuel consistently and when this engine is running correctly, it could not be any better. When it shows out, you are limited to around 8 mph at 1/3 trottle, any more gas than that and you don't see any more performance.
I had a buddy that recently spent $500 getting a similar engine's carbs rebuilt and I don't know of a "good and reasonable" place locally to have this engine serviced. I have been putting up with this ever since I purchased the engine 4 years ago.
Any suggestions welcomed as I don't want to spend big money when it runs perfect most of the time. However I don't want to put up with this issue if it might be a cheap and easy fix. Since it has 3 carbs I hestitate to do anything more than remove the drain screws and spray cleaner into the drain hole which I have done. My thinking is something is sticking inside the carbs and when it frees up it runs perfect. Compression on the engine is 115 on all cyclinders.
I think so.It really depends on how you look at it in MHO.It might take longer,but with a manual it can be done.Take pictures of the disassembly.Put parts in a labeled bag...ect.It all go's back together the way it came apart.
But I think one of the most important rule to follow is use the right tool for the job i.e. if that screw driver doesn't quite fit....well get one that does.
Besides 500 bucks to rebuild 3 carbs?Look at it my way>Thats a half of grand to rebuild three carbs....come on...If you have the cash go for,If you don't then get a manual.When your done take your self out for a steak dinner with the money you saved...
But ultimately do what ever your comfortable with.
Resolution on Issue: Diagnosed problem by pumping bulb until firm, removed each drain/high speed jet access plug from each carb and noticed that carb 3 was not getting fuel. Bulb still firm, no fuel. Used wire to jiggle float via drain plug, still no fuel. Rubber tip on intake valve was stuck (apparently would stick in storage, once you run it a bit it would free up and run correctly). Order gaskets and valve, replaced valve and it appears to be fixed.
Oil Injection Note: Went to pump bulb to fill carbs and realized that I was filling carbs with gas that did not have the oil mix due to the engine not running to turn the metering valve to feed the fuel pump. Connected to a premix tank and flushed the carbs. Not sure how much damage three carbs and the line full of unmixed gas would have caused if any.
Re raw fuel with no mix. It's not a problem. The same thing happens everytime you pump the bulb to fill the carbs during the first start of the day after it sits.
I have been concerned about this same issue and I usually shoot a litte fogging spray in the cylinders before first start after a carb rebuild.
1989 Mariner Carb Issue, Flooding when cold
Re: 1989 Mariner Carb Issue, Flooding when cold
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