Re: Force 125 HP 1989 Picture
OUCH! That was a hard hit onto rocks.
Before you get the skeg welded, grind off the epoxy putty and see of the case is cracked. Also check the run-out on the prop shaft to see if it is bent. That's a deep gouge in the front and although there is plenty of metal thickness there, I suspect the epoxy back by the skeg. The case is only about 3/16 inch thick there.
Then if it is repairable, from the welder get a complete price for welding on a skeg AND filling the gouges with aluminum. Then develop an opinion if it is worth repairing or buying a used gearcase.
Understand that welding is an exteremly high heat process and the aluminum transfers this heat very effectively. While the transferred heat will not harm the gears, the seals may be damaged. Expect to replace them. Residual oil will be ashed at the weld site and possibly gummed in other areas. It would be best to give the welder the case clean with nothing in it.
Your arrows are correct: The drain is marked correctly and the screw you should not touch is also marked correctly.
With the drain plug installed, you must fill from the front screw (fill) until oil comes out the rear screw (vent). With the gearcase vertical, let it sit for a half hour or so to let air rise then top off. This is absolutely necessary to ensure that the oil level is high enough to lubricate the top bearing.
