My poor trailer brakes..Im ashamed...

s2gots

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Oct 2, 2007
Messages
112
Im ashamed to admit this, but after opening the cap to the brake fluid on the tongue for the first time since I got the boat(2 years ago) I found the inside full of rust, and nearly empty...:(
I must redeem my self with giving my baby a good 'once over' on the whole brake system...but I dont know what I should? There really is no fluid in there, and theres alot of loose rust. Can I just bleed the whole system out until clean fluid comes out, or is it easier/wiser to replace the surge brake at the tongue??? Like I said, I have never done anything like this before, but I want to learn so as I can keep up good maintenace from here on out. What advice can you guys give me???

Be gentle.....:redface:
 

Silvertip

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Sep 22, 2003
Messages
28,762
Re: My poor trailer brakes..Im ashamed...

Brake fluid absorbs moisure and since the cap on many surge brake couplers is vented, a great deal of moisture gets in the system. If the master cylinder is rusty, there is a good chance the rest of the system is too. You don't need to replace the coupler -- just the master cylinder. If there was any fluid in the system, I would then bleed the system, flushing a good quart or two of new fluid through it. See how it goes from there.
 

cadunkle

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
May 8, 2006
Messages
128
Re: My poor trailer brakes..Im ashamed...

Obviously clean out the master cylinde real good. If it's really crusty I'd replace it. Not sure if you got drums or discs, but particularly if drums, disassemble the hubs/brakes and ensure all parts move freely and no signs of leaks on calipers/wheel cylinders. For drums grease the backing plate rub points with a good marine grease, repack wheel bearings while you're at it. You should do this at the beginning and end of every season. Bleed it and if the brakes work well after that with no leaks or loss of fluid consider yourself good to go.

I gotta redo the whole brake system on my trailer. Previous owner welded the rod to the MC so it wouldn't activate and just let it go. He lived 5-10 mins form river and didn't like surge brakes. Truck seems to stop it fine from the 35-40 MPH max I tow for the 15-20 minute ride to the river. This summer I'll be towing about 1000 miles round trip, mostly highway, so I'd like to have a little extra security of trailer brakes for higher speeds. Always cheaper to maintain than repair after the whole system is rusted to heck.
 

s2gots

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Oct 2, 2007
Messages
112
Re: My poor trailer brakes..Im ashamed...

I have drums....
To remove the reservoir, is it a simple unbolt/bolt on process, or is it more complicated than that?? Is there possibly a write up somewhere where I can reference on how to check the drum brakes on a trailer, and change the reservoir??
 

Silvertip

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Sep 22, 2003
Messages
28,762
Re: My poor trailer brakes..Im ashamed...

You don't unbolt the resevoir because it is part of the master cylinder. You remove and replace the entire master cylinder. Remove the metal cover, unhook the hydraulic line from the master cylinder, unhook the coupler linkage at the master cylinder and then remove the bolts that secure the master cylinder to the coupler. If you have never bled brakes you are advised to do some reading in any automotive service manual at your local library. It's not difficult but to type the procedure is far more work than the work itself. As for disassembly of the brakes themselves, you can read up on that in the same service manual. DO NOT use the old parts again if you disassemble the wheel cylinders. If they have any scale or scoring in them or the pistons are junk, replace the wheel cylinders. Get the number off them and get replacements at NAPA, Auto Zone or any better auto parts house.
 

s2gots

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Oct 2, 2007
Messages
112
Re: My poor trailer brakes..Im ashamed...

Thanks for the info.

Ill have to get more info on the whole master cylinder removal.
 

NYBo

Admiral
Joined
Oct 23, 2008
Messages
7,107
Re: My poor trailer brakes..Im ashamed...

What kind of shape is the rest on the actuator/coupler assembly in? It may be time to replace the whole thing if it doesn't slide smoothly.
 

204 Escape

Ensign
Joined
Nov 17, 2007
Messages
909
Re: My poor trailer brakes..Im ashamed...

Boy. This post made me go and look at mine. I can still see some fluid in my resoivoir, BUT, tomorrow, I will fill it up !!!!!!!! :eek:

I'd actually thought about this over the winter, and it slipped my mind. Old age is just mean ain't it !?!?!?

Thanx, for the original post. Sorry for your problems, but it reminded me to check mine. ;)
 

Utahboatnut

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jan 15, 2009
Messages
785
Re: My poor trailer brakes..Im ashamed...

When I redid mine last summer it wasn't too bad I have a DICO model 60(I think) but I went to a local trailer shop here (Hendersons) and they had the master for 59.00 and each wheel cyl. for 15.00 plus new shoes,bleeder nipples, and a quart of fluid. I was right about 110.00 and a half a day labor in my driveway, the brakes now work like new. If you redo your own only do one side at a time so you can reference if need be because drums can be tricky with all of the springs etc if you have never done them before. I also flushed the lines a few times before I hooked everything up just to be sure they were clean. Remember brake fluid is a wicked paint remover so be careful with it when filling,bleeding,etc good luck it isn't that bad if you study up on it a bit...
 

s2gots

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Oct 2, 2007
Messages
112
Re: My poor trailer brakes..Im ashamed...

Well, good news is I have alot of new brake stuff!!! I replaced the master cylinder, dust boot, and new cap... much easier to do than I thought!!!
I also was going to replace the shoes, and wheel cylinders, but when I went to my new favorite boat shop, they sold me the complete new brake backing plates with all new springs, shoes, cylinders, everything!! It was just four bolts to remove. I was going to get the normal painted ones, but they were out of stock. Then they were going to sell me the galvanized ones, but they only had one in stock. They ended up giving me the galvanized ones for a few dollars more than the painted ones because I would have to wait a few days for one more to arrive.
Worked out for me, im happy! It would have cost just about the same amount of money to buy just the shoes, and cylinders....
 

rreale

Cadet
Joined
Apr 5, 2009
Messages
13
Re: My poor trailer brakes..Im ashamed...

Wow, i just read this thread, I am in the same boat(no pun intended). Last december, i looked in the resevoir and saw scaly rust. Brakes didn't appear to work, according to the guy who drove it to my house. I have seen some advice about about rebuild/replace the master cylinder on this forum. But I am thinking about replacing the entire actuator. I found it here for only $99.

Of course, i have never done much brake work before.

http://shop.easternmarine.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=catalog.prodInfo&productID=4428&categoryID=150[/URL]


I was planning on replacing this and bleeding the line at the wheels. I didn't want to get into the wheel cylinders, unless i have to .

The trailer is a 1996 performance trailer with drum brakes. Total load about 5400 lbs.

Any novice advice would be appreciated.
 

a70eliminator

Captain
Joined
Sep 9, 2007
Messages
3,694
Re: My poor trailer brakes..Im ashamed...

I have a 5 gal bucket that I slide over the coupler and all, then a bungee strap from the buckets handle to the winch post, it's just my attemt in adding a few years to the life of the matercylinder ect ect.
 
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