I set the points at a distance of .02. I put flywheel back on a give it a pull, it'll spark once or twice but never every crank. I take flywheel back off and points are touching or gapped too far apart. What am I doing wrong to set these points? Is the gap suppose to move like this?
thanks
No they should hold steady. There is an adjustment cam scew and a fastening screw. Make sure you tighten the fastening screw and then re-check for .020 gap. Rick.
If you removed the point cam from the crank, The cam is marked "top", make sure you put it back this way. Align the breaker point contact arm with the key in the crank that holds the breaker point cam. Adjust points to .020
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OK, I tried resetting the points, I read the topsecret thread but still not sure about one thing....but I did get one of them sparking but not the other, Just FYI I have brand new points, coils and condensers. Heres the part I'm not sure of. On top of my cam shaft right next to the flywheel key it has a marking marked "set". Now do I line up this mark to each point rocker arm where it touches the shaft and set the gaps seperatly or do you line the set mark up once and set the gaps at the same time? I did them seperatly.
thanks guys
Yes you do them seperatly, loosen the lock down screw, then place the flywheel back on top gently, just enough to spin it by hand CLOCKWISE you want to turn it so the part of the point pivot that touches the cam is on the "set" mark, use your feeler gauge in between the points until it just barely touches the metal. carefully tighten the lockdown screw, and recheak the feeler gauge to make sure nothing has moved. Once you fell good about that rotate the flywheel again until the other set of points are in place and repeat the process.
Rather than set the flywheel back on I just run the nut back on and turn it with a wrench or if the plugs are out put in gear and rotate the prop. You have a much better view IMO. Rick.
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OK I reset the points and got them working right, I still couldn't get a good start so I took the carb off cleaned real well. I put the thing back on and First Crank VROOOOOOM!...Problem is, I didn't have the motor in water yet, I really did not expect it to crank lol. It reved up real high and ran about 15 20 secs before I could hurry to shut it off. I put the thing in some water and started first crank again but ran REAL rough until it killed and now I can't seem to get it started again. Did I mess something up by running a few secs out of water? I will do a compression test and check what I can then let ya'll know the outcome.
Thanks, Ben
Did you use a torque wrench to tighten the flywheel nut to 40-45 ft/lbs? If not, you probably sheared the flywheel key. You do not want to do that. It will damage the flywheel and crankshaft a bit more every time it happens, till there is nothing left but junk.
I DID sheer the key!! Now what do I do?? In testing the engine, an in the ecitement of the first time starting I forgot to torque the wheel back down. Can it be replaced? I do have the part that was sheered off.
Just get a new key. Make sure to get a real Johnson/Evinrude one, not one from Home Depot.
You can look up the part (and order from) http://shop.evinrude.com
Dug out old key out of keyway and replaced w/ new one. Reconnected everything and it fired right up!! Thanks again for the replies, They helped me out SO much! Now to clean up this old old alum. flat!
Set the points as follows. Have the flywheel key aligned with the fiber rubber portion of the ignition points. Adjust the gap so that a .020 gauge will pass thru but a .022 will not. Should there be any question of the points being dirty (touching the contact with your finger would cause them to be dirty), clean them with a small brush and acetone or lacquer thinner.
NOTE: Should the operating cam have a small portion on it with the word "SET" imprinted, align this portion with the fiber rubbing portion instead of the flywheel key