Do I need to take off the exhaust housing to change the impeller? And its an electric/manual start, there is no oval shaped plate on the exhaust housing. The model # 25302A which always comes up 1973
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Pizzaz,
Do you have plastic water intake screens on your lower unit? If so, take them off, and disconnect the shift rod. It will have a plastic "keeper" on it that you must take off.
Or, if it's really old, you should be able to see the shift rod connector inside the bottom of the exhaust housing after the lower unit drops about an inch.
As far as I know, if your motor is anywhere near a '73 model, it SHOULD have a cover in the exhaust housing to disconnect the shift rod.
that's about all I can think of to tell you.
Good luck and let us know if you figure it out,
JBJ
ive just change my impeller last night 1972 25 hp evinrude 25202.There is a little plate with 2 screws on the side of exhaust housing take it off and then you unscrew the screw on top and you will be able to take it off very easy.good luck
Don't trade the motor...buy the repair manual, OEM if possible. The manual should detail this procedure quite well. If you do not want to buy, go to the library. They usually have quite a few if it's large main branch.
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There is the possibility that the engine plate is not for the engine that you have. Is the bracket the same color as the rest of the engine?
Agreed, the plate was there in 1973 and several years beyond. How about the numbers on the welsh plug on the powerhead--do they match the serial numbr plate? SOMETHING has to be screwed up here.
Maybe the gasket on that shift rod connector cover was leaking and the previous owner filled over it with body filler or epoxy and repainted the leg-----I know, grasping for straws, here. But as far as I know they pretty much all have that cover until you get into the 80's and have plastic intake screens in the lower unit that also hide the shift rod connector.
Later,
JBJ
post pics of the leg both sides. We are working in the dark here. We can only tell you what it should be like. Without a pic or two can't really tell you what it is like. You are our eyes and ears.
Pizazz,
Are those rectangular black plastic intake screens on the sides of the lower unit? If so, take the 2 screws out and the screens off and see if there's a rod with a nut on it inside. If so, use 2 end wrenches to disconnect the 2 nuts, then slide the top nut up the rod, take off the black plastic cone-shaped "keeper" and slide off the nut. Now your lower unit will come down.
I can't believe you didn't take a pic of the starboard side of the motor!
Anyway, the above is all I can suggest. It looks like you may have a newer than '73 model motor. Can you take a pic of the whole motor on the starboard side and show us?
Edit: Just looking at your photo, that lower unit appears to be much newer than a '73! Your lower unit doesn't even look like the split lower unit like on the '73. It looks like it is the one piece style with the bearing carrier. Are there 2 bolts just in front of the prop--top and bottom? If so, that's the bolts holding the bearing carrier on and definitely identifies your motor as newer than '73, possibly early 80's even.
I'm almost positive you can take it off like the instructions above. Just take out the bolts, take the intake screens off and disconnect the nuts, then get that darned plastic keeper off!
What I can't figure out is the model number.....
Anyway, that is a good looking motor and looks in nice shape. I'd like to see a pic of the whole motor!
later,
Jason
Last edited by jbjennings : March 11th, 2009 at 11:09 PM.
Reason: add
That is NOT a 1973. Somebody has been doing a switcharoo with your numbers. The thru-the-prop-hub exhaust didn't even come out till 1976, and even then it was a 35hp. The 25 didn't get it till several years after that.
Jason is right, look behind the water inlet screens.
Pizazz,
I looked and your lower unit is definitely from the late 80s at the oldest. You can see in this part diagram how similar this '87 model lower unit is. Part #73 is the keeper that I'm talking about you'll have to take off. It will look one-piece but is actually split and you'll have to gently pry it apart with a thin flat-head screwdriver. Don't let it fly off because it's tiny and will bounce all over the place and you may lose it.
Good luck with your "newer than you thought" motor! http://www.crowleymarine.com/brp_par...rams/28212.cfm
JBJ
pizazz, I am sure by now you probably realize that is a stolen motor. The thief took the number plates off an old junker and switched them out. Have to admit, he was no amature. He was smart enough to change the welsh plug on the powerhead too. Cash deal, no bill of sale?
I didn't want to say it, but I was thinking the same thing, F-R. I'm astonished someone would be able to fit a welch plug from a '73 in a late 80's model, though! Or I guess they could just have the number stamped into the right plug?
Either way, somethin's up with that motor..
JBJ
Last edited by jbjennings : March 12th, 2009 at 12:21 AM.
Reason: fix something
I didn't want to say it, but I was thinking the same thing, F-R. I'm astonished someone would be able to fit a welch plug from a '73 in a late 80's model, though! Or I guess you could just have the number stamped into the right plug?
Either way, somethin's up with that motor..
JBJ
Hey piazz you probably bought that motor from TONY SOPRANO if you did not know it is not your fault good luck
Hey guys it does say 391088 stamped on the top of the motor itself and D J P but I don't know if that means anything. If the numbers are changed wow thats a good job, the original owner passed away at a young age of like 45 or something so I cant ask him.