wire differences

Ok so I am going to wire a trolling motor with 8 gauge wire. Whats the difference between the wire that is $2+ a foot from the boating stores and the 8 gauge wire that is $.61 a foot from lowes can I use wiring for lowes for a trolling motor it is copper wire and it is pretty stiff the wire in my boat now seems more flexible.

Re: wire differences

If the lowes wire is solid and not stranded, don't use it.
Moreover, marine grade wire is usually many strands of smaller wire, giving more flexibility and more vibration resistance.

Re: wire differences

I didn't use either when I wired my motor. I found that marine jump cable wire is cheaper, the right gauge and is color coded.

Grade of wire and protection from corrosion are two other reason for a price difference.

Re: wire differences

Yes there is a difference....several in fact. Marine grade wire is specifically designed for marine use. First it is jacketed, (shielded, insulated, coated...) to a higher temp rating than automotive stranded wire. Second, it has more strands in it too make it more flexible and less likely to fail with vibration and rough water. Third it normally has a coated or "tinned" conductor. Each strand is individually coated to help prevent corrosion. In short true marine grade wire is type specific.
My general rule of thumb is that if I am wiring a circuit that is of particular importance, I use marine grade. By importance I mean a circuit that I never want to fail, like engine or navigation. Or if I am wiring a circuit that is in a inaccessible place or carries high current I use marine grade. (Incidentally that describes just about every circuit in a boat.)
A trolling motor circuit? If I had a relatively short run to and from the battery and I could get to it easy.....maybe I would opt for a high quality automotive stranded wire. But I would use 6 gauge, a 50 amp breaker, heat shrink, solder and crimp all the connections. And I would forget the automotive cable and go with marine grade at the last second. Sorry I am being a bit of a smart @#%.
The truth is if you use good automotive cable it will last a long time in fresh water. (6 gauge though )

Re: wire differences

If you have a long run and a high thrust troller go ahead and use the 8ga. wire. Over engineering is never a bad idea. It is also never a bad idea to use wire designed for the application. . .highly flexible wire protected from a marine environment.

Re: wire differences

Has anyone used welding cable for wiring high current lines? They are highly resistant to abrasion, very flexible, and somewhat cheaper than marine cable.

The smallest size they seem to come in is 6ga but it could be something to look at.

Re: wire differences

Wow I am glad you said something about marine jumper cable I noticed that at gander mtn today they had 8g marine grade tinned copper wire. It was only $25 for 20ft that makes it alot cheaper than the other stuff. It is very flexible, I was thinking cut off the clips and put the ends that I need on and I am good. My only questions are: are there any differences in jumper cables than other stranded tinned copper wire? And the jumper cables are a 8g but seem to be a bigger diameter wire is that because of the insulation that is around them

Re: wire differences

I made up all my battery cables out of 1 ga welding cable , crimped,soldered,and sealed with hd heatshrink, 6 years in salt water no problem

Re: wire differences

ok so stupid question I guess but how do I take an 8 gauge wire and make it fit a 10 gauge minn kota plug. Do I just trim some of the copper strands or do I get connectors and connect 8 g to 10g wire and then go use it.

Re: wire differences

Greenjello said:

ok so stupid question I guess but how do I take an 8 gauge wire and make it fit a 10 gauge minn kota plug. Do I just trim some of the copper strands or do I get connectors and connect 8 g to 10g wire and then go use it.

Click to expand...

What I've done in the past is took about 1 inch length of copper pipe (propane line), and used it to butt the wires together. I done this to extend the starter wires on my aluminum boat. After I crimped the wires together I wrapped them with electrical tape.

Re: wire differences

wildmaninal said:

What I've done in the past is took about 1 inch length of copper pipe (propane line), and used it to butt the wires together. I done this to extend the starter wires on my aluminum boat. After I crimped the wires together I wrapped them with electrical tape.

Click to expand...

Sounds OK except for the electrical tape. AQnd maybe soldering the wires would be even better. Harbor Freight has their heat guns on sale for about $10. That and some big heat shrink and you can make that connection last a lot longer and look a lot better. Even better yet is a heat shrink with an adhesive inside that is even better for a marine installation.

Re: wire differences

triumphrick said:

Sounds OK except for the electrical tape. AQnd maybe soldering the wires would be even better. Harbor Freight has their heat guns on sale for about $10. That and some big heat shrink and you can make that connection last a lot longer and look a lot better. Even better yet is a heat shrink with an adhesive inside that is even better for a marine installation.

Click to expand...

I could use a heat gun, not only for heat shrink but for other applications. I've used my lighter in the past for heat shrink, key is to not accidently put flame right on the heat shrink. The connections is solid as can be on the wires I mentioned earlier, I may consider heat shrink later on, right now the wires are ran straight through a hole in the lower cowling on my old 57' model motor instead of a plug like it needs to have, if I get to install a plug outlet on the motor it'll give me a chance to pretty it up and make the connections look better.

Re: wire differences

Ever try that silicone insulating tape. Time hasn't tested my battery cables but they turned out great.

Re: wire differences

Greenjello said:

ok so stupid question I guess but how do I take an 8 gauge wire and make it fit a 10 gauge minn kota plug. Do I just trim some of the copper strands or do I get connectors and connect 8 g to 10g wire and then go use it.

Click to expand...

It all depends on the distance you have between the batteries and the TM. The longer the distance, the larger the cables need to be. If your TM is at the bow and you batteries are at the bow. Then it is not necessary to use big cable.
I would run the 8 gauge from the batteries to a power post. Then run 10 gauge from it a short distance into the back of the plug. Skinning the wires down defeats the purpose of using the larger cable.
like this one
http://www.iboats.com/PowerPost_Mini_1_4_inch/dm/*******.467278252--list_time.1228848853--**********.909169601--view_id.44288

Re: wire differences

Greenjello said:

ok so stupid question I guess but how do I take an 8 gauge wire and make it fit a 10 gauge minn kota plug. Do I just trim some of the copper strands or do I get connectors and connect 8 g to 10g wire and then go use it.

Click to expand...

I just had the same situation and I used a #8 gauge butt connector and on the #10 side I crimped the stuffing out of the #10 side. I then covered the connection with Ancor adhesive lined heat shrink tubing.

Re: wire differences

I would recommend this place:

http://genuinedealz.com/

They have everything you will need. He is also on eBay.