1987 1.8 Sea Drive

meangoat

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Dec 2, 2008
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3
I have a used boat that has a 1987 1.8 Johnson in it. Right now the motor cranks and starts up perfectly. I am having an issue with the charging system though. I can run the boat for about 1hr, when i turn it off. I switch off my batteries and if i go to start again it wont have enough juice to crank. Where can i start to check for problems?

Second, i had an issue with the trim/tilt system. Somehow the cables that go into the trim motor go pulled out of place and the cables fried. I was able to have the unit repaired, but then i realized that the relay where the motor connects to has melted and fused with some cables.

I already ordered the correct relay, but need to see if anyone would happen to have a wiring diagram. If someone can please help i would really appreciate it. I can post some pictures if necessary. Thanks
 

HighTrim

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jun 21, 2007
Messages
10,486
Re: 1987 1.8 Sea Drive

Welcome to iboats.

Do you have a DVM and am able to use it? If so what were your findings regarding the battery's standing voltage, cranking voltage and running voltage? Had your battery load tested?

I would reccomend getting a factory OEM Service manual, your best bet for wiring diagrams specific to your model.
 

mikesea

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Oct 1, 2006
Messages
1,830
Re: 1987 1.8 Sea Drive

WHAT PROBABLY HAPPENED WAS THE SHORTING OF YOUR TRIM N TILT CAUSED THE REGULATOR /RECTIFIER TO BLOW THEREFORE YOUR NOT CHARGING,IF YOU HAVE A TACH ,THATS LIKELY NOT WORKING,IF YOU GET A MANUAL AND HAVE THE EQUPT.TO TEST YOU CAN KNOW FOR SURE.bUT IF IT WERE ME ,ID CHANG THE R/R.yOU WILL FIND IT UNDER FLYWHEEL TOP OF BLOCK BETWEEN THE HEADS.aS FOR THE T-N-T,THE WIRES SHOULD BE IDENTIFABLE WITH BLUE FOR UP GREEN DOWN,IF YOU CAN SEND PICTURES WE MIGHT COULD HELP,BUT USUALLY THERE IS A CONNECTOR FOR THE MOTOR ,IF THATS BEEN ELIMINATED AGAIN LOOK FOR THE COLOR IT CORROSPONDS TO,YOU CAN USE A TEST LIGHT ,HAVE SOMEONE OPERATE THE SWITCH AND SEE WHERE YOUR POWER IS LOCATED WHEN ACTIVATED,YOU PROBABLY HAVE RELAYS,THEY LIKELY FRIED TOO
 

meangoat

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Joined
Dec 2, 2008
Messages
3
Re: 1987 1.8 Sea Drive

Yea, the tach is not working. I will most likely get a new r/r and replace it. As for the tnt i'll get a picture of that to see if you someone can help out. In fact is does have 2 relays with the blue and green cables coming out connecting to the tnt motor. I'll be replacing the relay and the receptacles that they go in. I was also noticing another thing. The batteries that came with the boat both need to be on in order to start the engine. Isn't one battery supposed to be crank and the other access?
 

Dhadley

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Feb 4, 2001
Messages
16,978
Re: 1987 1.8 Sea Drive

Reminder - the Sea Drive has a 35 amp stator. When you order the reg / rec make sure to get the 35 amp one, not one for the V4 looper outboard which is 10 amp.

Yes, one battery should start it with no problem.
 

HighTrim

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jun 21, 2007
Messages
10,486
Re: 1987 1.8 Sea Drive

Are you using a Perko type 1-2-BOTH switch?
 

mikesea

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Oct 1, 2006
Messages
1,830
Re: 1987 1.8 Sea Drive

it should crank on 1.or 2 or both.if it only cranks on one,and it is wired standard,it should work as said,but,if you have a bad battery,it obviously wont crank on the bad battery,you can turn selector switch to the working good battery and it should crank,note also ,a bad battery ,combined with a good battery when selecting both will deminish or kill starting ability,the bad battery pulls amps from the good battery.your boat may have an inline automatic selector that charges the lower charged battery,some boats have them.they may be option that I dont know
 

meangoat

Recruit
Joined
Dec 2, 2008
Messages
3
Re: 1987 1.8 Sea Drive

I finally got around to everything. The trim/tilt is working perfectly fine after re wiring everything and installing 2 new relays. As for the battery issue, I had both batteries charged and test. Both seem to be holding charge without a problem and are fine on load testing. The issue with cranking was basically this.

I can crank on 1 and 2 and All. Starter will spin on 1 and 2 but will not go all the way up to turn the flywheel over. It must be on All for the starter to hit and turn the flywheel over. From what i heard the engine should start on one battery. I am planning on re doing the positive and ground cable since after close inspection they seem to be a bit bad.

I havent used the volt meter after charging the batteries to see what voltage is was getting. But before when the batteries were down to 11.6 and 11.4. I ran the engine and had the switch to All. Voltage reading did not change at the battery terminals. Should i be testing the voltage elsewhere?
 
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