'51 Johnson TN-26 5hp (classic eggbeater)

OK,

I'm trying to "wake up" an old Johnson 5hp that I picked up with no knowledge of its history. The motor actually looks pretty clean with no sign of corrosion! The paint & metal are in real good condition.

I lubed up the cylinders and mixed up some 24:1 fuel mix....no life after many pulls!!

I've got 81 & 86 in the cylinders respectively...which I believe is pretty good!? I drained the lower unit...very dirty and replaced lube with 90 weight hypoid gear oil. I wanted to replace the o-rings on the drain plugs...but I don't know where to get any. I have not checked into the water pump...but I'm assuming it's bad. I'll replace if I can get the motor to "pop."

I pulled the flywheel & checked the points...dirty & pitted, so I sanded the points smooth with 400 grit paper. I checked for spark and only have spark on the upper...I'm suspecting bad plug wires and bought a pair of automotive wires I'm hoping to modify to be able to work? I also bought new plugs J6S...but call for J6J...what's the difference???


Five questions:

1. Where can I get OEM replacement parts...points etc?

2. If I still do not get spark on the lower cylinder after replacing the wires...what's next?

3. What is the torque on the flywheel nut? It also has a lock washer underneath.

4. Does the lower unit have some sort of centrifugal clutch...or are my gears stripped...the prop spins without the driveshaft.

5. What's the point gap & plug gap.

Thanks for any response,

MAS

Re: '51 Johnson TN-26 5hp (classic eggbeater)

I think that has a neutral clutch in the lower. Points I believe are na. the coils tend to be fairly bullet proof and your wires are probably fine. Regular auto wire won't work. it needs to be copper core or steel core wire. If the points are clean and gapped at .020 then it is more than likely the condenser causing your lack of spark. Swap the condenser and see if the spark moves with it. The plug gap on that I think might be .025, but I would have to look.

Re: '51 Johnson TN-26 5hp (classic eggbeater)

OEM parts may be found at Engine Blade and Prop. You can try them here:

http://www.ebp-online.com/

or try Seaway Marine, up in Seattle, Washington.

There are guys here that may have some of that stuff around. These were very common motors and quite reliable. I believe the "N" in the TN-26 model number, means "neutral"
There should be a pull knob or flip lever on top of the motor. I can't exactly remember which. Good Luck with it. I hope it works out.

Re: '51 Johnson TN-26 5hp (classic eggbeater)

1. Not sure which points the -26 has. If the push-rod type, they are obsolete/hard to find/expensive. If the pivoting type, they are available all over the world--including here at iboats

2. Take the points apart and clean each contact individually--shiny bright. Then if it still doesn't spark consider something else. Are the coils cracked? If so, they are toast. There was a third type of coil used around that period too. That kind has been obsolete for 30 years.

3. 40-45 ft lbs. I think. Again, I'm not sure of the -26. I know that is correct for the -28

4. It is normal for the prop to turn in one direction only. The motor must be running or at least turning over with the recoil in order for the clutch to release. As soon as it quits turning, it reverts back to "in gear"....prop will turn in one direction.

5. Points .020" Plugs .030"

6. Get rid of those car wires. You must use copper core spark plug wires.

Re: '51 Johnson TN-26 5hp (classic eggbeater)

Check here at iboats,I believe the 18-5181 coil fits 5hp 1950-76.
also 5.5,6 50-76.Should be pictures.Not clear in my catalog if both Evinrude and Johnson. If points were not disassembled there is a very good chance of residue from the cleaning is causing problems.I've run into this many times.
I have had pretty good results with contact cleaner on something like a file card rotated between the points.Simply pulled through can scrape the card if there is the slightest rough spot.

Re: '51 Johnson TN-26 5hp (classic eggbeater)

Thanks for the replies!

OK, I'll get rid of the "car wires and look for some copper core wires.

The points are push rod...so I might be SOL. I'll check the Seaway or E B & Prop.

I'll also try to swap condensers to see if that helps move the spark.

Yes, there is a "flip out" on the top right of the tank. That must be the neutral lever some have spoken of. I actually flipped it out to gain leverage when pull starting not really knowing what it did. I'll flesh out the mechanics.

I'll try the 40-45 ft pounds on the flywheel nut...but I want to be sure.

Also, any notable difference between the J6J and J6C plug...same plug different contact connection??

Thanks again,

MAS

Re: '51 Johnson TN-26 5hp (classic eggbeater)

no real difference in the plugs that you will notice. I think it has to do with the way the electrode is placed on the end. The J6J is not available any longer I think. I have been using the J6C or sometimes the shorter CJ6C

Re: '51 Johnson TN-26 5hp (classic eggbeater)

If you have the push rod points, they rarely fail, clean well with 600 grit emery cloth and make sure they have the little isolators to keep the metal of the points from touching the brackets. The isolators go thru the brackets and the bolts go thru the isolators.
As for coils, They also are near bullet proof. Any marina can check them with their coil tester, but I doubt that is the problem.

J6J -J6C plugs difference is the length of the little tang that extends over the center of the plug.

As for plug wires, you can get the correct wire from NAPA or Carquest, just ask for their Sierra Marine catalog. They sell it in 100 foot rolls. If that is too much, which it is, send me a private message and I will hook you up with the proper wire.The neutral lever needs to be next to the engine for the prop to be engaged, and flipped out for "neutral" starting. Impellers are available. Go to www.aomci.org and post a wanted add in the "free classified " section on the home page and not in the discussion board. You should get a response. Any other questions I would be glad to help, just private message me.

Good luck

Richard

Re: '51 Johnson TN-26 5hp (classic eggbeater)

Thanks Richard for you info...very helpful!

I found a local dealer that will sell me some plug wire with a stainless core. Is this what is called for, and can I solder stainless to the coils with a soldering iron?? I seem to think that stainless will not solder...I'm thinking I need copper core wires?

I'm guessing that the spark plug "tang length" is not a problem...just run them as purchased...or should they be filed shorter if they're too long??? Nothing I can do if they're too short!

Also, is the carb fed strictly by gravity, or is there a fuel pump? I have yet to locate a pump.


One last thing, there is a long thin rod (about 1/16") that is on the right side that angles down to the lower right. The rod is bent at the end and also turns....what is this??

Thanks for everyones help.

Re: '51 Johnson TN-26 5hp (classic eggbeater)

Mas said:

The points are push rod...so I might be SOL.

Click to expand...

Would you double check your model number for me. I'm looking at the parts catalog for the 1951 TN-27 and the 1950-53 (all model) TN parts catalog and they both show pivoting points and the "bad" coils. The 1946-49 TD catalog shows the pushrod points and "horseshoe" coils. Is it possible you have the wrong magneto?

If you PM me your email address I will email you any of the manuals I'm referencing.

Re: '51 Johnson TN-26 5hp (classic eggbeater)

The serial number 851681
Model number TN-26

I'll try to upload some pictures!

Mas

Re: '51 Johnson TN-26 5hp (classic eggbeater)

Here are some links to some pics!

Mas

http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p219/mas421/DSC05462.jpg
http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p219/mas421/DSC05461.jpg
http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p219/mas421/DSC05459.jpg
http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p219/mas421/DSC05457.jpg
http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p219/mas421/DSC05456.jpg

Re: '51 Johnson TN-26 5hp (classic eggbeater)

MAS, I've got more or less the same motor as you. Mine was a 1950 TN-26 but during the course of restoration the block & crank were replaced with 1952/53 TN-28 parts. As I understand the TN-28 got different points, the conventional kind you can buy easily. Be aware that the TN-28 with it's different ignition components also used a slightly different flywheel, and that in turn means you have to use the matching ready-pull starter assembly (not that you are doing anything like that, it's just a heads-up).

In one of your pictures you ask what the silver rod is for. That is your low speed needle. These old motors were refered to as having dual carburation. That is not to say they have dual carbs, rather there is a carb on the port side (RHS when you are face to face with the front of the motor) for high speed and a simple rotary valve on the front for low speed. The silver rod is the adjustment for the gas flow to the rotary valve (i.e. low speed needle). I finally ran my motor last week in a barrel of water. I found it tricky to get going, but after re-reading the manual I reset the needles and got it going. I think my starting difficulties were compounded by a possible flooding problem - my carb is leaking like it is overflowing.

As for the impeller for the water pump they are unique for the TN series. I believe you can get them for the old TD that was produced through 1949, but they are entirely different than what you need. The TN used a variable volume rubber impeller, but it is a little different than the impeller that was used on the 1954-on 5.5 and many other motors. I asked the guy who did my motor and he didn't elaborate, but I suspect that he may have used the common 5.5 impeller and somehow modified it (trimmed or cut it).


Below is a picture of my TN with the lower shroud removed, running in a pail of water. I mixed my fuel at 16:1 because of the new rings. You can see the low speed rod at the front (mines painted). Turn the rod counterclockwise until it seats gently, then turn it clockwise about 3/4 of a turn. If it is cold you might try a little more than that. I found mine was sensitive, and to set it properly I need to get it on my canoe and run it.

P.S. if you want a copy of a TD manual I have, just PM me with your e-mail address and I can get it sent to you soon.

Re: '51 Johnson TN-26 5hp (classic eggbeater)

MAS,

Answers as follows:

"I'm guessing that the spark plug "tang length" is not a problem...just run them as purchased...or should they be filed shorter if they're too long??? Nothing I can do if they're too short!"

Correct, makes no difference, run them as purchased, purists want the exact match for everything, most users only want a running motor.

This engine is indeed gravity fuel fed, there is no fuel pump.

If you attempt to solder the plug wires, you may not like the results. On the older opposed twins they merely fed the stranded wire thru the coil terminal and twisted it to hold it in place. You can solder but be extremely cautious so as NOT to over heat the coil. Too much heat in coil = failed coil.

As for the impeller, did you post to www.aomci.org ?
I am not 100% positive, but that impeller has a larger bore by a small amount as compared to another impeller. I promise someone there can verify that info.

While I have this info written down I don't remember where I put it. If this is the case a reamer of the correct size will give you what you need, I will continue to research, but AOMCI is the authority for this kind of engine.

I am a member that is why I keep recommending them. I currently own 42 outboard motors ranging in years from 1914 to 1974. Hope this helps you to go there as there is so much information to be gained from them.

As for that needle you found, that is indeed the low speed adjustment. One caution, in order for this engine to be properly adjusted you must adjust the low speed first, then the high speed. I have manuals that state this quite clearly.

PM me if you have any other questions.

Regards

Richard White

Re: '51 Johnson TN-26 5hp (classic eggbeater)

Your motor is a 1950 TN-26. 1951 started with s/n 869940.

I've sent you the manuals.

Re: '51 Johnson TN-26 5hp (classic eggbeater)

Thank you guys...you're a lot of help. Once I get the motor running, I'll break down the water pump and seek out a new impeller. I'll use your refferences once I get there.

My plug wires are clearly soldered to the coils...the idea of twisting the wires doesn't seem too good..but I do not like the thought of smoking my coils either. Decisions!!!

I'll see if I can tinker this weekend. I have not had much time in the last few day...I'll keep you posted.

Thanks again everyone has been very helpful!

Mas

Re: '51 Johnson TN-26 5hp (classic eggbeater)

this link might help you out. Click on the carb section for the HD-TD-and TN engines

http://www.old-omc.de/index2.html

Re: '51 Johnson TN-26 5hp (classic eggbeater)

That's a great site with good info. I like the pics of the old iron too!

Re: '51 Johnson TN-26 5hp (classic eggbeater)

seahorse5 said:

this link might help you out. Click on the carb section for the HD-TD-and TN engines

http://www.old-omc.de/index2.html

Click to expand...

Hey, I forgot, I donated those carb pages. It's good reading

Re: '51 Johnson TN-26 5hp (classic eggbeater)

Steve,
Are those "pages" you donated to the Old OMC Site complete and in order as they appear on the site? It seems that there might be some pages missing?

Nonetheless, very good reading and informative!

MAS