[Mandrake35]

Hi again! Finally got the flywheel off!!! HOLY COW!!! That thing was on there. I was thrilled to find no cracks or sweating on the coils, and as I already had a decent spark, I'm leaving them be. While I have everything apart though, I thought I should do a points kit. I have the kit and all seems straightforward, .......except, where does the cam on the driveshaft have to be when setting them to .20"?? Do I rotate it exactly til the "TOP" arrow is at that points contacter, set it then rotate to the next?? I've attached a pic, hopefully you guys can give me a little direction, Thanks P

[jbjennings]

Points .020 Turn the crank until the O in "TOP" is under the rubbing block. Set the points, making sure the feeler gauge is not getting squeezed, just barely making any friction when you pull it through the points. Make sure you push down on the cam while you're setting them.
Good luck, nice pics too,
JBJ

[Mandrake35]

Thanks JBJ!!! When you say push down on the cam....you mean push the rubbing block against the cam? Does it matter where I have the throttle at the time? It seems like it would have quite and effect on the timing. TIA

[jbjennings]

Mandrake,
I meant to push down on the cam because it has a little spring under it that will push it up sometimes and you won't get a correct measurement. It makes no difference about the throttle position because what really determines the timing is the position of the magnet in the flywheel due to the position of the flywheel key. Since neither of these ever changes, you don't have to worry about the throttle position when gapping the points. Turning the throttle rotates the whole armature plate and advances and retards timing by changing the position of the coil when the magnet comes by. At least I think I explained that correctly. Maybe F-R will spot your thread---he's can explain it much better because he actually knows what he's talking about. I AM sure that you don't have to worry about it when setting points, though.
How's your front engine mount? Pretty solid, I hope.... I'd hate to have to replace it.
Later,
JBJ

[Mandrake35]

Funny you should ask about the front mount......it's rock solid, but only I think because someone removed the two bolts by the carry handle.....looks like years ago. The first thing I thought was the mount must be shot, but low and behold it is fine. You're right though it does look like quite a puzzle. Thanks for the info......one step closer

[F_R]

I won't say for 100%, but I am fairly sure that one does not have a spring under the cam. That would allow for not knowing why JB said to push it down. Otherwise, everything is good--throttle position makes no difference.

Important!!! When you put that flywheel back on, make sure both tapers are clean and dry and use a torque wrench to tighten the nut to 40-45 ft/lbs. Many a motor has been destroyed by ignoring this.

[Mandrake35]

Thanks for all the help guys. The motor is taking shape nicely.....the big dilemna now is whether to go with stock paint or some sort of camo or drab olive for waterfowling.

[Tim Frank]

Originally Posted by F_R

I won't say for 100%, but I am fairly sure that one does not have a spring under the cam. That would allow for not knowing why JB said to push it down. Otherwise, everything is good--throttle position makes no difference.

Important!!! When you put that flywheel back on, make sure both tapers are clean and dry and use a torque wrench to tighten the nut to 40-45 ft/lbs. Many a motor has been destroyed by ignoring this.

How are they destroyed?

[F_R]

By shearing the key if it is too loose, or by spreading the flywheel taper if it is too tight. Either way, when the key shears, or when the flywheel is flopping back and forth on the key before it shears, it will destroy the flywheel for sure, and usually the crankshaft also. That's several hundred dollars' worth of parts.

[Mandrake35]

Do you have a good way to prevent the driveshaft from turning when re-installing the flywheel? I just wrestled it with a pipe wrench on the dampener puller's body on the way out. I'd like to avoid putting a wrench on the driveshaft, though I suppose there are spots it wouldn't matter. TIA

[jbjennings]

Hey Mandrake,
Paint it olive drab! That motor's hideous anyway!!!
Sorry, I couldn't resist. Actually, the '68 was olive drab with a white cowl, so it's not that far from factory color. Post a pic when you get it like you want it.

I think a big strap wrench is good for those flywheels, but I've always been able to hold it to 45 lbs. with my hand and arm wrapped around the flywheel. The bigtwin was a BOOGER, though!
Later,
JBJ

[Mandrake35]

Good Idea on the Strap......As for the paint.....yeah I've pretty much settled on something olive drab, ar camo, and flat over gloss. LOL you're right it is an ugly SOB of a motor. I'll be sure to post pics when its ready for action. Probably a month away, as I'm back on shift for a while. Thanks for all your help

[Mandrake35]

Quick question....what are the parts that came with my points kit called...... they look like batteries with a wire coming out of them....they mount with one screw. I'm guessing they are capacitors of some variety. I don't know anything about points ignition.
P.S. By my disassembly I'm figuring that as the flywheel spins around it creates electricity when it passes by the coils, it is stored in the capacitors, and released to the spark plugs via the points.... Is this roughly correct?? Does anyone have a link to a description of ponts/magneto ignitions??? TIA P

[jbjennings]

They're called condensers. But it's just another name for a capacitor. They called 'em condensers way back when.

As far as the ignition, you're right and wrong. The points open up to............Well, I asked the same question and will once again defer to the person who answered it for me--F-R. I'll see if I can copy and paste his response to this question. IT was an excellent read. I had the same misconception as you did about the points.
JBJ