I picked this up from the same guy I got the fishmaster boat from. He did not take very good care of this little guy and the pistons are froze solid in the cylinders. Do you guys think it is possible to restore this little guy? Is there rebuild parts available? I am not sure I will be able to get the pistons out with damaging something. I have it completely disassembled down to the cylinders. The ignition parts are bad also.
Anything is possible if you are willing to spend the time and money. But does it make sense? Perhaps that money could be better spent on a good running motor.
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I would love to restore it. It has seen better days and some of the parts are missing. The tiller arm is gone and the tank is dented up pretty badly. THe ignition parts fell apart when I removed the flywheel. If I could secure the parts, I would rebuild her. Are the decals still available?
OK, Being a jet engine mechanic by trade, I am not going to give up without a galant effort. I got the pistons out using my Cummins tool press. Once they started to move, they came out without event. The cylinders look ok at the top, but the bottoms are pretty bad. I took a couple of so-so pics to see what you guys think. Going to US Boatworks in KCK in the morning to talk with mike. 27 years of experience is worth an opinion on rather or not this little guy is worthy of resurection or a part out. Any of you guys have other sources for hard to find parts? I think the cylinders may require boring to get through the pitting from the rust, so over sized pistons may be the order of the day.
THanks
I would try a light hone to start with, and go from there.
Got the hone, and the seemingly gold value parts. What oil should I use when honing? Still need the ignition parts and have to make the reed plate gaskets unless someone know where I might find some. Also need a tiller arm and associated harware. Referencing "light hone" could you elaborate? I am new to these processes, but I am not skeerd
Napa auto has alot of the parts for the 3 hp. Im repairing my 3 hp johnson 1954. Redone in good working order its worth around 200 bucks give or take 25. thats good ignition new impeller and water proof lower. restored ,new or like new no dents good paint 300 - 350.if napa dont try here http://www.vintageoutboard.com good luck
I use ordinary 30 engine oil, when I hone. Be sure your tool is for cylinderhoning, not the bruches. By light, I only mean a couple of seconds, and then clean it up, and observe the results. You can actually hone so long it will get out of spec. They are pretty forgiving, though. Now and then things turn up on ebay. Sometimes if you contact the seller, they have other items for a motor they have taken apart, but only lists what they think is sellable. Good luck, I wish it was me, love those oldies. Pistons look great, thus the reason for the advise for honing .
OK got it honed. Wasn't very difficult. Now to my next question. When I pressed the pistons out, I think I may have distorted the end caps a bit. When I tighten them down, they are very tight on the crank. The book calls for a cap with needle bearings, but the ones in this engine are solid aluminum.
They do rotate with a little force, but do you think this will be okay once it is running and warm? My thinking is expanding aluminum will loosen up. What say the experts?
Thanks
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Freedom is not free. Some will perish to preserve it for the many.
I think the rods, if tight, will bind and gall up on the crank. Then snap.
If you can measure to see if they've gone out of round, a boring cutter in a vertical mill should bring them back into round.
Small engines I've worked on had brass bushings in the lower end with a small hole for lube. It helped to run a reamer through them to prevent galling. If they've gone out of spec a machine shop should be able to bush the lower end of the rods....if parts are not available.
Did you drive the pistons out with a hammer on the rod caps ?? If you did, you probably deformed the rod caps, since they are aluminium and not cast iron. If thats the case, I would try to place them in a bench grip and CAREFULLY pres them in on the sides, and try them on the cranck a couple of times. Were the rodbolts tight when you did it ? If they were the entire hole would be oval, then, both caps and rods. Be aware of risk of metal tiredness !! Be carefull.
Honestly, at this point it's cheaper to get a new power head off of ebay or some other source. They show up regularly. I brought back a 3 recently (used in saltwater) that had been frozen and sitting for a decade by soaking everything inside and out in penetrant for a week, slowly rocking the flywheel occassionally and respraying everything until it came loose and would rotate. Then everything was soaked again in motor oil and slowly worked through until it was loose. This whole process took about 3 weeks, just to get it to a point where I could run a compression check to see if it was worth going any further. The only bolts that I couldn't get free were the big transom mounting bolts, so I got a whole new (old) bracket and bolts off of ebay for 5 bucks. I only did this because the motor had sentimental value to me, and I knew it was running perfectly before being parked. The first tank of gas during and after a decarb was run at a 16:1 gas/oil ratio. I certainly wouldn't try this process with a precision bearing motor, but the old 3's are a bit more forgiving.
I would go looking for a new pair of rods, should not be that hard to find, shop a little around, or look for another powerhead eventually with some kind of fault, one that has overheated or so.
Here. They are on there all of the time (search for Lightwin or Ducktwin or Yachtwin):
http://cgi.ebay.com/Vintage-EVINRUDE-Boat-Motor-Engine-Assembly-LIGHTWIN-3_W0QQitemZ320325101480QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_Defau ltDomain_0?hash=item320325101480&_trksid=p3286.c0. m14&_trkparms=72%3A1205|66%3A2|65%3A12|39%3A1|240% 3A1318|301%3A1|293%3A1|294%3A50
Any hope restoring a Evinrude Yachtwin 3532A?
Re: Any hope restoring a Evinrude Yachtwin 3532A?
Re: Any hope restoring a Evinrude Yachtwin 3532A?
Re: Any hope restoring a Evinrude Yachtwin 3532A?
I only did this because the motor had sentimental value to me, and I knew it was running perfectly before being parked. The first tank of gas during and after a decarb was run at a 16:1 gas/oil ratio. I certainly wouldn't try this process with a precision bearing motor, but the old 3's are a bit more forgiving.
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