So, where should I start? should I rip the decking off, and the wood across the sides, and frontal bow area? should I lay pipe down to house the soon-to-be center console cables and wires? Where should I mount the center console? how big should it be? plans? should I carpet the floor, sides, and top storage compartments?
FYI: This boat will not be used for fishing. Well, not by me, maybe by other owners if I sell before it gets stolen/wrecked/sinks
the areas i marked in red need to stay, they are structural. if you take them out you will have an aluminum foil boat. you can deck over the bow area. i would build my console just behind that presently front seat. you need to get everything in that is going under the deck, also run some extra pair of wire, for future add-ons. i always, decide i want something else. i would run 2 conduits one for controls, and one for electrical. remember no sharp bends in the controls. also rotary steering is much easier to get in, rather than rack.
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with the rack you have the hard rack and motor end of the cables, that does not make turns in a conduit. now you can use it, if you get it in before the deck, but still run a condiut for future, if the cable goes bad, you would have to cut the rack cable to get it out. i would see what is under the existing wood, you may have to brace the gunnels to keep the in place.
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I hate to say this but I would have left the top cap on and just cut out the bow area. That top cap provided a lot of structural support.
I am concerned that the first time you stuff the bow into a wave, it could fold up.
You need to duplicate that gunnel support.
The rack system is fine, it's just a bit harder to package. Not a problem if your console is wide enough.
dj.....that top cap was a cap off a glass boat the PO put on.......there was a 3 inch overhang from the cap to the top edge of the tinnys gunwhale.
while some structural stability may have been there because of the cap......i think we would need to see the tinnys orig configuration to know how much structure the PO took out to put that contraption on.
but i totally agree that the thing needs to be shored up well.....esp the bow nose
Could he not just use some 3/4 exterior ply and form a interior floor in that area to provide additional support (where the cap was)? I do that with aluminum boats every so often and works good for me.
yup wood will work well......however DJ's concerns are very real....if you look closely at the bow, it has allreasy been "stuffed" once or twice....and there is allready a bend in the nose
DJ, don't worry about it folding up on you, it won't the rub rails are oval tube, riveted to the gunwalls and welded to the transom. The one thing you don't want to do is remove the transom sheet metal for any reason. Can't think of why you would anyway.
So, your starting point to get some rigidity back in the gunwalls is going to be adding in rail caps. I would measure in 4 inches from the inside of the gunwall at the transom and make a bracket to hang a piece of 1/2x4x1/2 thin wall aluminum channel, on edge, that runs all the way to a forward bulkhead that you'll install to keep the bow section together. You'll be bending the channel to conform to the rub rails so that's why you use thin wall. Do that on both sides and then build your splash well in between those and tie it in. I would also put some 3/4" ply at strategic points in the rail cap for things like down riggers, and a full wind sheild just in case you change your mind about the center console.
Once you have the rail frames installed cap them with .050 aluminum and use 5/16 pop rivets to secure it to the inside top edge of the rub rail and the new inner channel piece.
When you build the forward bulkhead (1/2 ply will be just fine) you might want to think about capping the bow in the same manner as the side rails so that you have a place to mount a trolling motor properly.
I have some pic's of how I did this and how StarCraft does it somewhere, I'll dig them out if you want.
Pics would be great, as I have no idea what your talking about.
The cap probably didn't give any support, it was only held of with 5- 1/4" bolts, and was in 4 pieces. It did however weigh 300 pounds, and kept the front of the bow way down, I'm thinking that now that the boat is sooo much lighter, it may not handle waves and chop as well.
and would I really need to add supports, all the original metal is still there, intact, and sturdy
"and would I really need to add supports, all the original metal is still there, intact, and sturdy"
The support you need can come from the rail caps as I suggest. You will also get a lot of lateral support from the floor since your are essentially creating an inverted truss. Start with the floor because you know you need that and then determine how much additional support you need.
The reason I like rail caps is because you can use them to tie the transom, to the gunwalls and to the bow. If you think like you're building a house, the framed walls are nothing until you tie them together with a top plate and rafters or trusses. Look at your boat is if it were upside down, the rail caps act as the foundation.
you could actually taking 2 layers 3/4 inch plywood and make a rail, fit it to the hull, lapping your splices, then attach it the hull, and put a wrap around rub rail on it. something like this ,inverted, to cover the joint. http://tacomarine.com/item--1-3-8-x-...-A12-0305.html
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Pics would be great, as I have no idea what your talking about.
The cap probably didn't give any support, it was only held of with 5- 1/4" bolts, and was in 4 pieces. It did however weigh 300 pounds, and kept the front of the bow way down, I'm thinking that now that the boat is sooo much lighter, it may not handle waves and chop as well.
and would I really need to add supports, all the original metal is still there, intact, and sturdy
I'll dig through them and try to post them tonight. The pictures show it pretty well. I have a feeling you're going to just say, "Oh yeah, I know that".
The picture posted by tashasdaddy shows his boat with the rail caps on it. Your current rub rails are doing the same thing. With a wider rail cap you get better support over the length of the boat. In addition, you can come up from the deck with interior sides that will act as additional bracing to the gunwalls and can also serve as storage space.
Yeah, but I don't really want to all rail. Its been said that I should have one for support, But this is the way the boat originally was, so I need it?
I cant get into bending aluminum channel, and I don't know anybody that can weld the stuff. The there is the fact that Im not that great at making things look good....
Yeah, but I don't really want to all rail. Its been said that I should have one for support, But this is the way the boat originally was, so I need it?
I cant get into bending aluminum channel, and I don't know anybody that can weld the stuff. The there is the fact that Im not that great at making things look good....
Nah, you don't need it, that boat probably didn't come with it originaly. It was just something that I thought would dress things up and tie things together better.
My 14' came with supports from the edge of the rub rail to the seat tops. It was originally a 3 seater with bench style seating. They did add a lot of gunwale support which is why I thought your's might need some support also. You'll have to be the judge of whether you need something like that or not.
This pic is of the bow. The aluminum piece on the left is about 3-4" shorter that the one on the right:
So, If I leave it the way it is, my side benches will be a good height, but towards the front, the thing is just going to drop forward and be all slanted, I would like it straight all the way back.
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You shouldn't have any problem. Foam is good and I would leave it in unless you have plans to utilize the space. It's only for flotation and not structural.
Another thing, in this pic (of me) you can see where the steering wheel is located, I would prefer mine on the sloping side not the flat area. is that not good? and why is that seat so far back?
Another thing, in this pic (of me) you can see where the steering wheel is located, I would prefer mine on the sloping side not the flat area. is that not good? and why is that seat so far back?
The seat is back so there is room for the captian to stand at the helm. Some seats convert into a padded leaning post (the seat base folds down to a vertical possition). Can't tell from the photo if yours does or not, but usually if there is a large space, its becasue the seat does not convert and the design is leaving you standing room at the helm. My guess is the wheel possition is a compromise between comfort either standing or sitting.
Center Console boats are typically work boats. You're the captain when you're in that seat and responsible for everything that's going on around you. The boat in your picture is set up just for that reason. As was mentioned above, the captain is usually standing so he can see everything going on around him. I know you have your heart set on a center console but ff you want to sit and relax in a comfortable captains chair then you might want to think side console instead.
When that bow comes up and you're sitting down, you won't see anything in front of you.
18' Aluminum Center Console Build
1985 Bayliner 1600 Capri Cuddy, 1965 MFG Niagara Custom. 
Linear Mode
