Since my pontoon will be used primary in salt water I need to find a way to lift the pontoon logs off the bunkers of the trailer so that I can clean the salt out from underneath the logs. Otherwise the trapped salt may eat away at my logs and cause pin holes so I am told.
I was told by Tracker Marine that they do not use treated lumber for the bunks on their trailers but, just to be on the safe side I would still like to come up with a way to clean under the logs.
Anyway, Here is an idea I had and would like to get anyone’s feedback or suggestions on it.
If I place a floor jack in-between the tires of the trailer (dual axle) and place a 4 foot 4x4 standing vertically on top of the floor jack, then place a
6 foot 4x4 horizontally on top of the vertical 4x4 and underneath the cross beams of the deck, forming a T-shape, I can raise one pontoon off the bunk an inch or so in order to spray underneath the pontoon log. I can then repeat the same process for the other side.
Does anyone see any problems with doing this? Would this method cause to much pressure on the other pontoon that is still on the trailer? Does anyone have a better idea?
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owner and inventor of cobra jet steering us patents 6561858 and 6702630,,
and cobraezlock for yamaha jet boat clean out plugs.
I just keep getting older but not wiser,, what's up with that?
yes, but use two floor jacks one near the back, one near the front for stability. You would not want to lift your car up on one side with just one floor jack in the center would ya?
Pontoon lifts actually lift them up by lifting on the cross members, not the logs, so lifting this way sounds OK ( as long as your lifting under the cross members.) and dont pinch any cables!
What does not using treated lumber got to do with salt?
Must be nice to still be able to play in the water, I just have my hot tub now, where I can look at my wrapped up boats
pressure treated lumber and metals do not get along well. the chemicals will even eat stainless steel. the carpet provides some protection, but i use regular Pine for bunks.
we all need to support iboats marine store when ever possible. you get, competitive prices. fast shipping, top notch customer service. also it provides us, this great FREE forum.
When I had my Lowe I had 2 home made camper jacks that I would slide under the deck supports on the outside of the boat then raise it off the trailer. Now this is not a super-heavy-duty support but it worked.
What I did was to use a engine lift that's used remove & install automobile engines. I placed a large "racket strap" around & under the deck & then I lifted the rear of the pontoon first because that is were most of the weight is. Once I got it up far enough off the bunks I placed a 4X4X10 under the tubes from side to side & stacked cinderblocks high enough to support the 4x4X8. I lowered it down on the blocks & then did the front the same way. The trailer came out very easily then I later replaced the cinderblocks & 4X4s with heavy duty furniture dollies I bought from Norhtern Tools for $15.00 each. Now I can move the entire boat around with the help of my friend anywhere I want to. I installed a piece of 2X10 on one side of the dollies to keep them in place. Worked out just fine for me & I was able to do it all with just one other person. The dollies also came with carpeted cross members so they won't scratch the tubes.
Just my 2c, but all this sounds like a lot of work and a little dangerous. Why not sell your bunk trailer, and get a scissors trailer that lifts from the cross members? This would leave your tubes completely exposed as soon as you pull it from the water so that you can simply hose it down. I have a picture of the trailer I borrowed to move the Black Pearl and it worked great.
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Steve
Livin' the Dream
The Black Pearl - homemade pontoon boat - 1958 Johnson 18HP
On A Whim - 1990 ChrisCraft Concept 198 - 4.3L HO, Cobra outdrive
Just my 2c, but all this sounds like a lot of work and a little dangerous. Why not sell your bunk trailer, and get a scissors trailer that lifts from the cross members? This would leave your tubes completely exposed as soon as you pull it from the water so that you can simply hose it down. I have a picture of the trailer I borrowed to move the Black Pearl and it worked great.
Location: Recently moved to high rise waterfront condo on Pluto. What a view!
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Re: Lifting Pontoon Logs off the Bunks
This is no big deal! Jack one end of a toon up and work where you can. Then jack the other end up and do the same thing.
PT for bunks on al is bad. It does react and can trash the boat. A friend of mine bought a well known 16' al skiff brand new with trailer 2-3 yrs ago. This is a heavily used saltwater boat and within one yr the bottom was badly eaten (holes leaking) only where the pt bunks were. The bunks were carpeted but the pt leached though it. I think they could be isolated with some sort of covering if someone didn't want to change bunk material. The boat company gave him a brand new boat and changed the bunks. End of story.
I think that if you do some checking, that most places that do pressure treating have changed their formula so that this is no longer an issue. Many times if you ask at home depot, they can give you the paperwork on the PT process. Some is even stamped now that it is AL Safe.
__________________
Steve
Livin' the Dream
The Black Pearl - homemade pontoon boat - 1958 Johnson 18HP
On A Whim - 1990 ChrisCraft Concept 198 - 4.3L HO, Cobra outdrive
Location: Recently moved to high rise waterfront condo on Pluto. What a view!
Posts: 3,079
Re: Lifting Pontoon Logs off the Bunks
Quote:
Originally Posted by asdasc
I think that if you do some checking, that most places that do pressure treating have changed their formula so that this is no longer an issue. Many times if you ask at home depot, they can give you the paperwork on the PT process. Some is even stamped now that it is AL Safe.
Could you post a link to the pt process that's ok for aluminum? I've looked and don't see it. Where I live the only pt availble is CCA and ACQ. Neither is recommended to use with aluminum. All the pt I buy is stamped or has a tag stapled on the end to say what type it is.
Sorry Bill, just saw this. I got some pressure treated plywood, and it was supposed to be ok. I will go to Home Depot later this week and find another copy of the info I had gotten at the time and post it.
__________________
Steve
Livin' the Dream
The Black Pearl - homemade pontoon boat - 1958 Johnson 18HP
On A Whim - 1990 ChrisCraft Concept 198 - 4.3L HO, Cobra outdrive
Wow, lots of surprising info here, especially for a guy who replaced bunks last year with pressure treated 2x6 under the carpet. Sounds like a big mistake, although 'toon is used only in fresh water in dry climate.
I've never presumed to localize all the weight on such a small footprint as rollers (or 4x4s cross-wise under the tubes). Are you reporting this as satisfactory? How many rollers?
As I am building a home made pntoon trailer I would definitly be insterest in seeing picturesof it. I have plenty of good used rollers & mounting brackets that could be used instead of the wooden bunks. A picture is worth a thousand words.
What I did was to use a engine lift that's used remove & install automobile engines. I placed a large "racket strap" around & under the deck & then I lifted the rear of the pontoon first because that is were most of the weight is. Once I got it up far enough off the bunks I placed a 4X4X10 under the tubes from side to side & stacked cinderblocks high enough to support the 4x4X8. I lowered it down on the blocks & then did the front the same way. The trailer came out very easily then I later replaced the cinderblocks & 4X4s with heavy duty furniture dollies I bought from Norhtern Tools for $15.00 each. Now I can move the entire boat around with the help of my friend anywhere I want to. I installed a piece of 2X10 on one side of the dollies to keep them in place. Worked out just fine for me & I was able to do it all with just one other person. The dollies also came with carpeted cross members so they won't scratch the tubes.
Aren't those furniture dollies only rated for a few hundred pounds each? Is it enough to lift the rear and engine?
They will push into the tube and dent the crap out of it.
They are hollow and the only real support for lift on the tube is at a bulkhead, anywhere else and you are trying to lift hundreds of pounds pushing on a peices of .080 aluminum.
Get an empty aluminum can, try to crush the ends, not gonna happen, now try to crush the middle of the can, a tube is the same way.
I have rollers on my trailer but my pontoons have a angle aluminum brace down the center ,, I havent seen any isues with the pontoons. but I also have the bunks on either side of the rollers.
I only use 2 on each side,, one in the rear as shown and one toward the front,, none in the middle. maybe that was why I didn't have an issue.
__________________
owner and inventor of cobra jet steering us patents 6561858 and 6702630,,
and cobraezlock for yamaha jet boat clean out plugs.
I just keep getting older but not wiser,, what's up with that?
I agree. The 20'er I bought last year is on rollers and it is dented at every roller and one of the leaks I have mentioned in another post is at one of the rollers bends. I plan to redo the bunk with planks this summer.
I have rollers on my trailer but my pontoons have a angle aluminum brace down the center ,, I havent seen any isues with the pontoons. but I also have the bunks on either side of the rollers.
I only use 2 on each side,, one in the rear as shown and one toward the front,, none in the middle. maybe that was why I didn't have an issue.
That looks like a good setup. I wish I had the triangle brace down the center of my tubes. It'd protect the bottom for sure.
Lifting Pontoon Logs off the Bunks
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