[Macamato]

Good morning,

After searching through many of the forum threads on replacing pontoon decks, I am still confused about the best material to use.

I have purchased Wolmanized pressure treated 3/4" plywood and currently have it stacked on edge with space between the sheets with a window fan circulating air betweeen the sheets. When it is dry to the touch, I plan on coating all surfaces with two coats of Behr Plus 10 Oil Based Primer Sealer No. 94. I also plan on sealing all fastener holes with a good sealant.
My bride more or less insists that we install a good marine carpet on top of the deck.

My questions for all you good buddies are:


Is this a viable way to create a deck with lasting structural integrity?[*]Will the treated plywood chemicals react with the aluminium to the point that the structural integrity of the vessel may be compromised?[*]Is there a preferred carpet adhesive that I should use under the above conditions?[*]What would you recommend for a sealant to seal the fastener holes?[*]Should I return the treated plywood and start over with B/C exterior plywood?

Thank you for any suggestions and recommendations that you have to offer.

MACAMATO

[Macamato]

Good morning,

After searching through many of the forum threads on replacing pontoon decks, I am still confused about the best material to use.

I have purchased Wolmanized pressure treated 3/4" plywood and currently have it stacked on edge with space between the sheets with a window fan circulating air betweeen the sheets. When it is dry to the touch, I plan on coating all surfaces with two coats of Behr Plus 10 Oil Based Primer Sealer No. 94. I also plan on sealing all fastener holes with a good sealant.
My bride insists that we install a good marine carpet on top of the deck.

My questions for all you good buddies are:


Is this a viable way to create a deck with lasting structural integrity?

Will the treated plywood chemicals react with the aluminium to the point that the structural integrity of the vessel may be compromised?

Is there a suitable carpet adhesive that I could use under the above conditions?

What would you recommend for a sealant to seal the fastener holes?

Should I consider returning the treated plywood and start over with B/C exterior plywood?

Thank you for any suggestions and recommendations that you have to offer.

Sincerely

MACAMATO

[chrisg]

If you go to www.pontoonstuff.com or www.pontoonspecialists.com (http://www.pontoonspecialists.com/c-...deck-kits.aspx), they sell complete re-decking kits with the right wood, glue, screws and carpeting ( you pick the color). there is even a video on one of the sites. that may be your best way to go

Check that out

[tashasdaddy]

personally i would get BC, they also make a tongue and groove plywood flooring, called "SturdiFloor" it is 3/4, that way your joints do not buckle. i would 3 coat the ply, but not the groove or tongue until installed

[steelespike]

If you intend to paint the PT you should be fine.With the pt you will never have to replace the deck.With BC or marine if there is any penitration of water into the wood it will start to rot.My PT transom ,77 crestliner uytility,is about 26 years old unpainted.Spent the first 20 years exposed year around and in water April to
December.Still fine.This of course this is the old style pt but I think you can see the advantage.Factory transom lasted barely 5 years.If your still worried about the aluminum coat it with something.I believe pt is available in tongue a groove.

[steelespike]

You shouldn't double post.gets confusing all around.Check your other post.

[BillP]

I have to differ with TD on materials. PT is the only way to go. All you have to be worried about is reaction between the pt and aluminum...and that is EASILY prevented by putting a barrier over the alum before setting the wood down. Barriers can be anything from duck tape to rubber strips to paint. The other consideration is to drill oversize holes and use nylon bushings and washers (both had cheap at home supplys) to isolate fasteners that hold the ply down. This is way less work than using untreated ply and trying to keep it dry...which on toons is impossible because the undersides are continually getting heavily drenched. It's highly unlikely to keep untreated ply 100% dry with coatings on the underside.

Again, I differ about using T&G. Ply is way stiffer, stronger and better in all respects to T&G. T&G joints are too flexible for this application and unless you glue the joints will require many, many more fastener holes in the framework to keep it rigid. T&G isn't seen anywhere while PT ply is a universal standard in the toon industry (for good reasons).

My toon has thin rubber between the UNPAINTED pt decking underside and there are zero problems. It sits in a boat lift over saltwater and been there since 1996.

bp

[pugbro]

www.pontoonstuff.com offers a roll of rubberized material to isolate the deck from the alum frame. I think it is called joint tape...Not very expensive and does the job..If memory serves corectly, a 50ft roll is less that $20
Good Luck!

KEEP IT FUN, KEEP IT SAFE