I am not able to get the motor to shift. I had it to a "marine" mechanic to get some work done. He did a carb kit and replaced the impeller. The first time I took it out, it wouuld not start, so I took it to the boat ramp and with the help of a few friends, got it to start, then, while in neutral, it prop would turn as if in forward. We took to boat out of the water and pulled the breather off the carb, we noticed that a linkage was not re-installed, so we do that. Now it will still not shift. The handle moves but does seem like the shift rod is connected to the shaft. Does the whole lower end have to come off to check if the yoke is connected, or can I do it with just the prop off?
Your "mechanic?" had to disconnect the shift linkage in order to obtain access to the water pump. Why are you doing his work for him? Take it back and demand to have the job done right.
And there is no need for any shift linkage to be tinkered with at the powerhead area.
The lower unit needs to be dropped down about an inch or so in order to gain access to the brass shift connector.
I have taken this issue to my laywer already, from day 1 with him having my boat, he has acted lets just say odd. So I will not have any more dealings with him other than to recieve my money back.
Good for you Paul, glad to hear from one who won't just sit back and take it so to speak. I have no tolerance for incompetence.
The brass shift connector I mentioned secures to the lower and upper shift rod with two 3/8" hex bolts. The groove in both rods must align with the holes in the brass shift connector. If not aligned, the threads on the bolts normally strip somewhat causing the threads on the brass connector to strip also. You and a friend can no doubt handle that job..... align the water tube with the water pump grommet, the drive shaft with the crankshaft splines, and the brass connector with the upper shift rod.
Hint.... have the unit in gear so that turning the prop turns the driveshaft to alingn the splines in the crankshaft.
I have taken this issue to my laywer already, from day 1 with him having my boat, he has acted lets just say odd. So I will not have any more dealings with him other than to recieve my money back.
Thank you for your reply
Now, I'm all in favor of being assertive to get the work done right, or get your money back...
but unless i'm missing something - why didn't you go talk to the mechanic before starting to spend money on a lawyer? Why the lawyer at this point? Has the mechanic refused to make it right or refused to give you your money back? It seems to me the easiest and best thing would be to simply bring him the motor and ask him to fix it on the spot? It's probably a 15 minute job for a qualified guy. I'm not excusing what the mechanic did or didn't do, but geeze, your first step should be to have him make it right.
Does the '74 have the split shaft like my '59 18HP? If so, you can do it all with needle nose plyers thru the little cover on the side.
Unless of course someone pulled the screw on the bottem which holds the lever that moves the yoke. That is a pain to have to take it apart to that level. Complete dissassembly of the lower unit is required at that point. Never take out the little phillips head screw at the bottom of the skeg.
__________________
Steve
Livin' the Dream
The Black Pearl - homemade pontoon boat - 1958 Johnson 18HP
On A Whim - 1990 ChrisCraft Concept 198 - 4.3L HO, Cobra outdrive
Now, I'm all in favor of being assertive to get the work done right, or get your money back...
but unless i'm missing something - why didn't you go talk to the mechanic before starting to spend money on a lawyer? Why the lawyer at this point? Has the mechanic refused to make it right or refused to give you your money back? It seems to me the easiest and best thing would be to simply bring him the motor and ask him to fix it on the spot? It's probably a 15 minute job for a qualified guy. I'm not excusing what the mechanic did or didn't do, but geeze, your first step should be to have him make it right.
I've left many messages, and finally talked to his wife and she said they were not going to fix it anymore. And my lawyer is my sister in law
Does the '74 have the split shaft like my '59 18HP? If so, you can do it all with needle nose plyers thru the little cover on the side.
Unless of course someone pulled the screw on the bottem which holds the lever that moves the yoke. That is a pain to have to take it apart to that level. Complete dissassembly of the lower unit is required at that point. Never take out the little phillips head screw at the bottom of the skeg.
That is too bad. I just reconnected my shift linkage over the weekend, because I didn't do it right the first time. I hung over the edge of the boat while it was in the water and it only took about 10 minutes. Without the cover it looks like it is a real job. How do you get at the 3/8 bolt heads? Is the connection farther down the shaft?
__________________
Steve
Livin' the Dream
The Black Pearl - homemade pontoon boat - 1958 Johnson 18HP
On A Whim - 1990 ChrisCraft Concept 198 - 4.3L HO, Cobra outdrive
asdasc ..... On this model, the lower unit must be dropped about a inch or so which then reveals the brass shift connector. The 3/8" hex bolts are removed/installed in the existing gap between the exhaust housing and the lower unit surfaces.
1974 15 hp Evinrude electric start
Linear Mode
