Recoil starter mainspring

Hi, I'm looking for some guidance. I've a rebuilt '54 Evinrude 7.5 hp twin cylinder outboard. Some of the rebuild was done well. Some less well. I'm gradually correcting the components that were done "less well". I'm trying to replace the original recoil starter with a much better unit from another old Evinrude. Both parts are alike, the replacement uint just works a LOT better on the workbench. However, I would love to know the technique for re-attaching the main recoil starter spring to both the bridge housing and the recoil mechanism. It seems to me that I need four hands, two of which can fit through 1/8 inch gaps to do this task. There must be some workable method of doing this, I know the starter ropes are exposed to significant wear and thus need to be replaced from time to time. So, there has to be a way to reassemble the main recoil spring with both ends properly attached.
Any suggestions or assistance with be greatly appreciated.
Gary

Re: Recoil starter mainspring

You want the long version or the short version. Here's the short-and-a-half version:

Find a nail or something that will fit through the 1/8" hole in the pulley. Set it aside where it will be handy when you have both hands full

Unhook the little pawl springs and take the spindle and equalizer ring and it's friction spring right out of there to get them out of the way.

Remove the recoil rope from the pulley.

Now, do you already have the recoil wound in the housing? If not, put the outer end over the pin and wind it in counterclockwise, like coiling up a garden hose. Smear some light grease on the spring.

Now put the pulley in, getting the pin in the spring end is the tricky part as you know. If it is way off from aligning, it is OK to curl the spring a bit tighter with a pair of pliers. However, a used spring normally isn't that hard.

Once you manage to get it on the pin, smear some light grease on the spindle and install the spindle and equalizer ring assembly. The friction spring must be up on the shoulder of the spindle before inserting it in the pulley, otherwise it will lock up. Put the retaining screw in and tighten it. The pulley should still be free to turn, otherwise re-read the part about the friction spring.

Once you get all that, wind the pulley counterclockwise as far as it will go, then back it off one turn and stick the nail in the little hole. That will keep it from rewinding.

Feed the rope through the hole in the pulley and out the housing nose. Install the handle. Hang onto the rope and remove the nail and let it recoil. Re-hook the pawl springs. A piece of stiff wire with the end hammered flat makes a great tool for getting hold of the spring loops.

Re: Recoil starter mainspring

FR,
Thanks. That's basically what I ended up doing. I could have saved myself some lost sleep if I'd waited to read your reply. Two things I did differently than your suggestions: I assembled the recoil starter plate, springs, dog ears, fricition fitting and all to the rope housing. I noticed that the pin underneath the rope housing that goes into the inner end of the main recoil spring was a tiny bit shorter than the center section of the friction plate and spring housing. I used that 1/8 of an inch edge of the center section to push the recoil mainspring around until I could slide the assembled unit down onto the mainspring loop. It took a while but it worked.
You're my hero, you'd be even more-so if I'd waited to read your reply before I did the job.
Gary now known as sleepless in Hillsboro