1993 Johnson 225HP Ocean Runner Stalls

My motor ran great for many years with simple maintenance. I scored a cylinder and rebuilt the motor. I've never been able to get the motor to run as good as pre-rebuild.

The motor runs okay above 1200 RPM, but I can't get it to idle below 900 in gear for very long without a sneeze and stall.

I performed the following.

Bored .020 over and replaced all 6 pistons and rings.
Replaced all bearings.
Replaced all seals.
Rebuilt the lower unit and water pump.
Replaced all 6 coils.
Replaced the trigger coil.
Replaced the power pack.
Rebuilt all 6 carbs.
Replaced spark plugs with QL76JC4 @ .030
Replaced the carb to manifold fuel lines.
Inspected the flywheel magnets.
Replaced VRO pump and continue to use the oil injection feature.
Check and recheck the compression.
Sync and linked per the OEM shop manual many times over.
Set the max timing at 18 BTDC with the boat in the water
Checked low oil alarms
Checked fuel vacuum switch
Checked overheat switch.
Checked the shift switch.
Checked that the proper idle air jets are in the correct locations.


Here is what I've checked most recently:

Pulled the carbs and throttle plate and checked for crud. None was found. No clogged anything. Put a fender washer on the middle screw of the idle jet cover to make sure there isn't air leaks.

Ran the engine on the hose and use the IR thermometer and see all spark plugs reading about 130 degrees F.

Timing light shows a steady timing mark on number one. It's not missing or erratic.

Checked compression and find all cylinders read from 99-108 PSI with the throttle held open.

I just ran the engine about 10 hours over the weekend with a combination of trolling as slow and I can with a few stalls and some limited mid range planing speeds up to about 4000 RPM. I filled the nearly empty tank with fresh 87 gas and some sea foam additive. I checked the new spark plugs and they are very wet and the insulators are still white as new. The engine seems to use enough oil. I get plenty of blue smoke at startup and can see it while trolling. Seems to me the white insulator color is a little weird. I would have expected the usual cardboard color. Is the sea foam keeping the plugs from reading correctly?

I'd like to get the engine to run at the factory spec of 650-750 in gear and get rid of the sneeze and stall. I've got the idle timing screw almost set to the last threads which I know is not right but that's the only way it runs at idle speeds of about a 1000 RPM in neutral. If I back the idle timing screw in to about the middle portion of the threads the motor runs on the hose, but not in the water with the additional exhaust pressure. The timing light shows around 0-2 when idling at 1000 RPM. I can back it down to 4 ish but then the stalling is horrible. When the motor stalls the fuel primer bulb is still firm so I think the pump is working properly.


Thanks in advance for your suggestions.

Re: 1993 Johnson 225HP Ocean Runner Stalls

Great post. The first thing I would check is the Quick Start, when starting the timing is advanced 6 degrees for a fast idle, after warmup, or about 10 seconds on hot restart the timing will shift back 6 degrees. The final timing should be check at 5000 full throttle rpms, with the engine loaded.

Engine temp should be higher at idle, about 150. I would guess that you have the thermostats in, correct?? The sparkplug number does not look correct.

Re: 1993 Johnson 225HP Ocean Runner Stalls

Clanton thanks for responding. I think the plug number I wrote in the post is not correct. I couldn't quite remember what I put in there. I'm using the Johnson recommended plug, which I believe is QL77JC4. A little case of CRS I suppose.

The quick start feature is working correctly. With a cold block it advances the timing. Hot restarts from a key off position also uses the quick start for about 5 seconds. I verified this with the timing light.

I've been reading the shop manual about the recirculation system. I know I replaced some of the check valves. I intend on checking all the fittings out further, but the boat is 200 miles away right now.

Can you explain the theory behind the recirculation system and how it helps or hurts the idle speed. I'm guessing it has something to do with excess fuel puddling up somewhere but I'm not sure.

I haven't pulled out the Steven CD77 to check any voltages since the initial problem with the powerpack and timer base. I replaced those last summer along with the stator. The stator, timer base, and power pack are all Rapair branded parts.

Re: 1993 Johnson 225HP Ocean Runner Stalls

Can anyone suggest what temperature an IR thermometer should read if I point it at the head near the spark plug while at idle and fully warmed up? I seem to get about 130 on all cylinders.

Re: 1993 Johnson 225HP Ocean Runner Stalls

thats about right.

Re: 1993 Johnson 225HP Ocean Runner Stalls

Check the temp at the thermostat pocket.

Re: 1993 Johnson 225HP Ocean Runner Stalls

I would look into the recirculation system, I had similar symptoms with my 1990 XP-200 and found 3 of the recirc fitting screens were completely clogged and 2 of the fittings were bad. I replaced all of the check valves redid the sync and link and the "lean sneeze" went away. I will also say setting the sync and link on my motor was truly a biatch!!

Re: 1993 Johnson 225HP Ocean Runner Stalls

Thanks, now I wish I wouldn't have left the boat 200 miles away. I'm going to look at the recirulation system just as soon as the fish stop bothering me.

Re: 1993 Johnson 225HP Ocean Runner Stalls

Used the boat over the weekend and still had the stalling issues. I tried leaning out the carbs about an 1/8th of a turn and the problem got worse. Then I went back to the intitial position and tried and 1/8th richer. Ran worse yet. Nearly to the point of barely being able to get from fast idle to shfiting in gear.

I brought the boat home and tore down the intake side and checked all the plumbing. All external hoses are tight on the barbs. I did the syringe and alcohol trick and found all external check valves working fine. Tore into the manifolds and checked the internal check valves. A little carbon on the screens and 5 of 6 working properly. I ordered some replacements and the gaskets needed to put it all back together.

I was a bit surprised to find lots of raw fuel in the recirulation lines. Is this normal? I expected to find some fuel but it seemed excessive. I figured it would be mostly vapor.

What is everyone running for fuel line from the manifold to the carbs? I've replaced a couple of the lines but they always end up too kinked for my liking. Therefore I don't run the motor anywhere near the upper RPM range worried that I might starve a carb. The water is usually too rough to run full out anyway. I was thinking of making copper tubes with double flared ends and connecting with short fuel line pieces to the fuel barbs. Not sure if my tubing tool will make small enough radius bends.