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Old August 24th, 2008, 09:07 PM
Goodguy1 Goodguy1 is offline
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Default 115HP Evinrude powerhead leak

This is a 1984 (I believe but am not sure how to check) 4 cyl evinrude. I started the motor last week and noticed there was a leak but couldnt figure out where it came from.
I took the boat out, the motor ran fine for about an hour, after that I got the buzzer from the control box, the motor would not start for a while but if it did start I was only able to go half speed.

The next time the motor would not start, eventually I got it started and noticed that the power block, (bottom side below the cylynder is heavily spraying water) the motor would run a bit and then die.

What should I do? Scrap the motor? Attempt repairs? Is it a headgasket and a cracked powerhead? I just dont know. Please help.
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  #2  
Old August 24th, 2008, 09:12 PM
tx1961whaler tx1961whaler is offline
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Default Re: 115HP Evinrude powerhead leak

You probably need to take that head off and fully examine the pistons, head, and block. Take some good pictures and post back.
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  #3  
Old August 25th, 2008, 06:24 AM
emdsapmgr emdsapmgr is offline
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Default Re: 115HP Evinrude powerhead leak

I'd take a compression test before you take the heads off. If it locked up due to an overheat, that can affect compression. Make sure the compression is OK before you continue any repairs. You need to get the water leak fixed. If you an post a picture of where the water was coming from, someone here can help suggest a solution.
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Old August 25th, 2008, 03:09 PM
Goodguy1 Goodguy1 is offline
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Default Re: 115HP Evinrude powerhead leak

THanks for your replies, I have no way of testing the pressure, but I will post some picks later. Ill take the head off just to take a look.
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  #5  
Old August 31st, 2008, 05:13 AM
Goodguy1 Goodguy1 is offline
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Default Re: 115HP Evinrude powerhead leak

Hi everyone, so I took some pics. The cylinders look nice and dry, no water has been inside of them, which is pretty good I guess. The cylinder head gastket is in good shape. This leaves me with lots of questions. I got myself a service manual, not too usefull to me yet. I dont understand how the water can get under the cylinder as of yet.

A few observations:
1. The motor started when I turned the fuel valve 180 degrees to the off position. THe motor ran for a few minutes and died then did not start again. (weird)
2. The exhaust was shooting some water and I saw droplets of black oil in the water after.

The pictures below shows my motor, and when I took off the head. The water sprays or leaks from the bottom, I have no way of taking a picture without taking it out. Any suggestions?

How does water get in there? Is it in the crank case?




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Old September 1st, 2008, 05:51 PM
mikesea mikesea is offline
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Default Re: 115HP Evinrude powerhead leak

If you talking about the red lever on the primer (manual control)then you didnt turn fuel OFF but ON.That would cause eng to flood thus stalling.Put back so it runs along the body of primer.The primer activates by pushing you key in.As for the water.Remove the gasket.You cant reuse it.Ned a new one.Check that area for cracks in the block.possibly around the bolt holes.Next get a piece of 80-100 grit abrasive .Not sandpaper,the wet or dri or emery.It will be the black sheets.You want to find something smooth like marble to lay the abrasive over and run your head preferably in a figure 8 pattern ,this will show if your head is warped.After a half 6-10 passes look to see what areas arent getting sanded.That will be the low points.That also may be where your leak is.You want to sand til the whole head is even .Try and do the same to the block,but it will be hard to manuveur,heads are what warp ,so at least be sure to get the block side clean.Get a tap and chase all the cyl head bolt holes so there are well cleaned.Now comes a part that some may NOT agree with ,but I have done this hundreds of times.Spray all the bolt holes with wd-40 or some kind of lube,just to get a coat over the treads,after assuring the bots are clean ,do the same to bolts.Heres the ?? part.Get a NEW cyl head GASKET ,place a lite coat of sealer both sides.Install head and gasket ,all bolts til snug.ThenYOU NEED to torque to 240 INCH lbs.NOT FT.lbs.Ft lbs would be 20 ft lbs.You need to do this in progressions.Not 0-240.Starting in middle working outward in a circular pattern ,say 0-60 then 60 -120-then 120 -180 then I like to go smaller180 -210 210-225 225-235,235 -240.Is that progression necessary,probably not.BUT,older engines do tend to strip.If I feel the bolt starting to get funny at say 210,I make em all 210 .I have stripped too many.I also know as long as the torque is even ,you can get away with less than 240 which is max.I have worked on many salt abused engines in S Fl.and this is one of the hints I was taught by others.Let us know how you do
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Old September 4th, 2008, 04:51 AM
Goodguy1 Goodguy1 is offline
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Default Re: 115HP Evinrude powerhead leak

Here is what I am not clear on: If I am going to see if the head is warped, then sand it to make it even, why do I need a new head?

Another question is the wire that goes into the head for a heat sensor?
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Old September 4th, 2008, 06:34 AM
emdsapmgr emdsapmgr is offline
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Default Re: 115HP Evinrude powerhead leak

The wire to the head goes to a heat switch. The switch will go to ground at 212 degrees and turn on the horn. When the head temp goes down to 175, the switch will open and turn the horn off. One switch for each head. You can pull the cover back on the knife joint on the switch wire and touch the wire to ground and the horn should sound.
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  #9  
Old September 4th, 2008, 02:20 PM
mikesea mikesea is offline
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Default Re: 115HP Evinrude powerhead leak

Sorry.new head GASKET,dont reuse.The wire is a temp.sensor,
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