I cant find a steering cable for my merc 150. Does anyone know somewhere online to buy one. Has anyone put one on before? Is it hard? Mine broke today while I was wide open, not fun. The guy I almost hit was cool about it though. I do need to find one, or should I just take it in and have it done? Any help would be great. Thanks
A V6 merc should have no less than a dual cable rack steering system on it. If you have a single cable, you are an accident looking for a place to happen.
Thank God you survived and rig it right. I'd suggest a Teleflex Dual Rack NFB system.
Gary, That motor should take a standard steering cable. I use a single rack and pinon steering setup on my speedboat with a 135V6 merc. It works fine, although a no feedback setup would likely be more comfortable.
Gary, That motor should take a standard steering cable. I use a single rack and pinon steering setup on my speedboat with a 135V6 merc. It works fine, although a no feedback setup would likely be more comfortable.
I guess the safety guys don't know what they're talking about. Don't believe them, just go by this guy's anectdotal "proof".
Not only is the fail safe aspects of dual cable important, so is the steering stiffness the proper adjustment of it provides. It's the only way to compensate for steering component wear with adjustment over time.
Rack, or hydraulic is needed for the required stiffness at the helm.
I know I sound like an idiot but how do I tell what is on there now? How do i tell if it is a single or dual? rack or rotary? Could it be just the cable(s) that need replaced? There are alot of steering systems on iboats for sale how do I know which one is right for mine?, or are they all universal?
ok i drew this picture in paint. its what the steering system looks like...kinda, haha. well if you can tell, is this a 1 cable or dual?? the dotted square is the top of the motor. the steering cable goes through the motor, out the other side, then kinda L's off and goes back toward the motor. then there is a lever that attaches to the motor that steers it i guess? does this makes sense to anyone? can you tell if it is a single or dual system? thanks for any help - Gary
Most boat manufacturers install the cheapest parts that they can get by with to keep costs down and increase their profits.
You have a single cable system.
Look under the steering wheel to see it there is a roundish gear housing or a rectangular box with the cable coming out one end.
If it is the rectangular box then you have a 'rack' system, the current most common. Hopefully the cable is imprinted on one end with the I.D. model and length, finding that while it is still installed can be a pain.
On the steering whell end, remove the 4 small bolts holding the box to the gear housing, it will fall on your head, be ready.
On the motor end, remove the link bar between the cable end and the motor, also remove the large gland nut holding the cable housing to the thru tube.
Now, the trick is to pull the cable out of the thru tube, some boats you have to pull the motor loose from the boat to get enough room to remove the cable. Some have plenty of room, it depends on the design of your boat.
There should be a number of zip ties along the length of the cable holding throttle cable, shift cable and wiring harness, if there is room, slide the steering cable out toward the front of the boat, cut the zip ties if needed, you can replace them after installing your new cable.
Once the cable is disconnected and laying on the floor you should be able to find the #'s (if it is marked) or you can measure it and order your replacement.
Installation of a replacement is straightforward the reverse of removal.
Upgrading to a dual system is advisable but not required. If you do so you will need to remove the steering wheel assembly and follow the mounting instructions that should come with your new system.
Most boat manufacturers install the cheapest parts that they can get by with to keep costs down and increase their profits.
You have a single cable system.
Look under the steering wheel to see it there is a roundish gear housing or a rectangular box with the cable coming out one end.
If it is the rectangular box then you have a 'rack' system, the current most common. Hopefully the cable is imprinted on one end with the I.D. model and length, finding that while it is still installed can be a pain.
On the steering whell end, remove the 4 small bolts holding the box to the gear housing, it will fall on your head, be ready.
On the motor end, remove the link bar between the cable end and the motor, also remove the large gland nut holding the cable housing to the thru tube.
Now, the trick is to pull the cable out of the thru tube, some boats you have to pull the motor loose from the boat to get enough room to remove the cable. Some have plenty of room, it depends on the design of your boat.
There should be a number of zip ties along the length of the cable holding throttle cable, shift cable and wiring harness, if there is room, slide the steering cable out toward the front of the boat, cut the zip ties if needed, you can replace them after installing your new cable.
Once the cable is disconnected and laying on the floor you should be able to find the #'s (if it is marked) or you can measure it and order your replacement.
Installation of a replacement is straightforward the reverse of removal.
Upgrading to a dual system is advisable but not required. If you do so you will need to remove the steering wheel assembly and follow the mounting instructions that should come with your new system.
You'll also need a second steering cable tube that bolts on the front of the motor, parallel with the tilt tube that houses the first cable.
If you have a fast boat, the difference between a dual cable system and a single cable system at 55 or over is working your tail off keeping it under control compared to almost being able to let go. The difference is steering play.
well with the 150 on my 16.5' boat, should it do over 55? When I had it out before the steering went out i was at like 5000 rpm and 45mph. I do alot more fishing than i do tubing or skiing anyway. Is it worth going to the dual cable system. If so, is it alot harder to install the dual cable on a system that is single cable. I looked under the steering wheel. there is a circular contraption with what looks like 2 cables coming out of it. I looked at the end of the cable that was at the motor but couldnt find any ID numbers or anything like that.
Jgary, Your setup could probably do 55MPH or so, depending on how it is set up, and of course if the motor is in good shape. I have heard of the recommendation for dual steering cables for 150HP and up, but I have driven boats from my bass-boat style 16 footer with 135 and 150HP, up to my 21' bowrider with 150HP and my 18' with 205HP, as well as dual engine cruisers in the 400+HP and 30 foot class. All of these had single cable rack and pinon systems.
well with the 150 on my 16.5' boat, should it do over 55? When I had it out before the steering went out i was at like 5000 rpm and 45mph. I do alot more fishing than i do tubing or skiing anyway. Is it worth going to the dual cable system. If so, is it alot harder to install the dual cable on a system that is single cable. I looked under the steering wheel. there is a circular contraption with what looks like 2 cables coming out of it. I looked at the end of the cable that was at the motor but couldnt find any ID numbers or anything like that.
Dual cable isn't any harder to rig. You just need all the parts, and you pull 2 cables instead of 1.
A 150 on a 16.5 ' boat, unless it's a deep v made out of concrete, should do well over 50.
If you look at the teleflex site, or on one of their boxes, you'll see that dual rack is recommended for your setup.
The cables need to be the right length. They are pretty stiff, and you don't want them to be going around in circles or kinked in any way. They need about a 2 1/2 foot straight shot at the tubes on the engine. Some times you have to pick the engine off the transom with an overhead winch in a tree, or an engine hoist to get the cables in. Then you can bend the cables and pull it all into line with the engine mounting bolts.
The helm just bolts into the dashboard, and the racks (built into the helm end of the cables) just lay on the helm (pinion) and bolt down with 4 bolts.
What you have now is a single cable drum system. It is suicide for your rig, as you noted in your first post.
ok well I think i am gonna go with the nfb systems you suggested. I wont be able to take the old steering cable out until friday, so it will have to wait until then. i will let you guys know how it goes. Thanks for everything!!!!!!! - Gary
My old cable says 11.5 feet. Should I get a 11' or 12' cable??
Is a dual cable rotary system a good option for me? I dont seem to have the clearance/room for a rack system behind the wheel. The speedometer, tach, fuel guage and battery meter/ all the wiring is kinda in the way.
What do you think of the dual cable rotary system?
Rack fits any normal console. The racks mount 8 or 10 inches behind the dash, and extend horizontally each way. The cables can take one short bend, at the rack end, so you can get em turned down the gunwale. They easily clear all instruments. Wires can move.
Had no problem at all putting it in the bass boat.
Key with dual rack is it doesn't have any play in it at all. The only play in the steering, then, is the motor mounts. For real high performance, you replace those rubber mounts with solid mounts.
Any steering play at speed can set up a dangerous chine walk situation.
Steering Cable for Mercury 150 Black Max
Re: Steering Cable for Mercury 150 Black Max
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