[Ezrider_92356]

i think my lower unit is shot. yesterday i ran the motor and it wouldent go into reverse when i got back from using the boat i checked the lower unit and there was watter mixed with the oil. so i changed all the orings i could get to without taking the lower unit off. and i think iv narrowed the watter intrusion to the shaft seal on the top side of the lower unit. its still getting watter in it. also today when i was running the motor somtimes in forward you would be going along and it was like the lower unit would jump a tooth once in a while. so i think my lower unit is shot. what is the aprox cost to rebiuld. or should i be looking for a used one, if so where should i look, i got an part from some outboard salvage yard in i think Minnesota but cant for the life of me remember the name.

[F_R]

No way in heck to estimate the cost till you examine the parts. Sounds bad, though

[Ezrider_92356]

i guess i realy dont know what im going to do till i do more homework, but i can get a newer 60hp motor in the $2500 range that will probably do better on fuel as well (this motor drinks gas at about a rate of 1.5-2 gallons per hour. running mid throttle most of the time with a few wot runs) the motor is on a 1958 glasspar and i would realy like to keep a vintage motor on this boat. but if the price of repairing this lower end will exceed the cost of buying another motor i guess i don't really have a choice. im hoping some i boaters will chime in with the most probable cause based on my description and maby some advice on my options.

[Ezrider_92356]

the name of the salvage yard is twin city outboards, i had to go back to the person that referred me to them the first time i got some stuff from them to remember the name. after talking to a few different people they said my lowerunit defently needs a new cluch dog and posibly a gear set they said id be looking at 1000 easy to rebuild it IF i can find someone that will work on a 1965 lowerunit. so im defently going to be going the used route.

[Evinrude Boater]

Originally Posted by Ezrider_92356

so i changed all the orings i could get to without taking the lower unit off. and i think iv narrowed the watter intrusion to the shaft seal on the top side of the lower unit. its still getting watter in it.

The only seals you can replace with the lower unit attached is the prop shaft seal, the seal carrier O-ring and fill & vent screw seals. There are a number of other seals inside including the shift rod seal which nobody wants to replace since it's so hard to get at. As FR wrote, there's no way to estimate the cost or what it needs unless you take it apart, which is easy.
When I bought seals for my Speedifour they told me that the drive shaft seal was superceded with two seals installed opposing each other.

The symptom you describe "jumping a tooth" can you describe that further? I can't imagine it jumping a tooth. The gears are either engaged or not. Having water in the gear oil shouldn't make it shift or run any different. Have you ever loosened or removed the phillips head screw near the bottom of the gear case? That holds the shift fork in place. That can let water in if not sealed and if you take that screw out to replace the seal then the shift fork might have moved too.

Take it apart and inspect it before buying another used one. If it's junk, it's junk. At least you'll know and you'll have learned something about them.

[Ezrider_92356]

basicly it happens typically when right before you plane out when accelerating it will make a bang sound and jerk the boat the boat like i took it out of gear and slamed it back in real quick, the motor will rev up when it does it too, but it happens realy fast all together like 1 second or less. i did remove that screw to replace the seal that was completely missing. so someone else has taken it out before. it was the same before and after i took it out. how can i check to make sure its alligned properly.

[Evinrude Boater]

Originally Posted by Ezrider_92356

i did remove that screw to replace the seal that was completely missing. so someone else has taken it out before. it was the same before and after i took it out. how can i check to make sure its alligned properly.

That screw is the axis for the shift fork. It goes through the yoke and fork. Chances are you didn't move anything when you took it out or it wouldn't be shifting. The only way to check is to disassemble the gear box and have a look inside.
Sounds like the clutch dog is slipping out of the gear. Some have had success in grinding the dog ears square and a new one is about $100. Who knows how good it will be in a used gear case.