questions about my new(to me) 18hp rude

topdogjosh

Recruit
Joined
Jun 26, 2008
Messages
5
I picked up this 1971 18hp evinrude last week to the tune of 50 bucks. The guy said it was his father-in-laws and that he had passed away two years ago and hasnt been run since. He told me the pullstart did not work and shore enough when I pulled it out it did not recoil. It looks really clean under the hood and the fuel pumps and lines appear to be alot newer than 1971. Also the middle section appears to be new. Ok, now for the questions.
1. What all needs to be changed before I run this engine?
2. If it fires up, do the points(Im asuming its points ign.) need to be changed for it to be a reliable motor?
3. Ive included a picture of the underside of the shift handle, well that c shaped lever on the back side of it keeps it from going back in nuetral after being in forward. I have to reach around and move it to get it back in nuetral. Whats up with this?
4. After looking pretty close at it, it does not appear to have a pee tail thingy. Are they in a different place than more modern motors.
5. Got any clues about the pull starter. Im gonna tear into it later on today.
6. Did any of these come with electric start? Could I just get maybe a bracket and starter to put on here? Its got teeth on the flywheel.
7. What is the slow fast knob for by the choke?


Thanks ahead for any help
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This is the shifter thing Im talkin about
 

jbjennings

Captain
Joined
Jul 18, 2007
Messages
3,903
Re: questions about my new(to me) 18hp rude

That's a nice motor your friend gave you....
It does have points and you'll probably need to pull the flywheel using a harmonic balancer puller and clean the points and reset them. I'd also pay attention to the coils, looking for cracks in them---they'll have to be replaced if they have any cracks. They're not expensive. Your spark should be able to jump a 1/4 inch gap. If it sparks but won't jump a 1/4 inch gap, it's not enough.

Next, you have a fixed-jet carb. Myself, I hate 'em but they are good carbs when they're clean. You'll need to get some GOOD carb cleaner and take that carb apart and SOAK the poop out of it. The fixed high speed jet (non-adjustable) is in the bottom of the carb under a screw-in plug. You have to have a special screwdriver to get it out. It will likely be frozen so for me, the best bet is to try to use a small copper wire to clean out the tiny orifice in it and let the carb soak do the rest. That orifice has to be SPOTLESSLY clean for that motor to run which is why I find it annoying.

Before you ever fire it up, I'd also replace the water pump impeller because they are bad about getting "set" after sitting for a long time. they also can get brittle and the blades can break off when you fire it up and clog up your water jackets. Be sure your water tube is in the grommet when reinstalling your lower unit after changing your impeller. Search the old threads to find out how to change the impeller or just repost and we'll tell you how. You would also be very wise to get a good OMC service manual for your motor or check one out from the library.

I'd then give starting it a try.

Your kill switch is bad and will need replacing--the button on the right front of your motor.

The center knob is for idle adjustment. check the FAQ section of the forum for setting carb adjustment, the FAQ for awakening a sleeping outboard will be ideal for you.

The left knob is the choke.

The shifter on the port side of the motor is in forward if you pull it forward, straight up is neutral, back is reverse. You have to move it each time you want to shift gears. I personally find this setup very reliable and despise the "shift in the handle" on some motors where the throttle and shift are in the tiller handle and work both the throttle and shifter. The old way never fails.

You will need to check your lower unit oil to see if any water is present. If not, change the oil and use new crush washers on the drain/fill plugs.

There is not tell-tale for the water pump. You will see plenty of water coming out the exhaust relief in the back/center of the center section---if it's pumping water right.

Your throttle cam roller is also missing. Oddly enough, I don't see the throttle cam on the armature plate but it's probably just turned where i can't see it in the pics. There's a couple of places on the net where you can find labeled parts diagrams. One is crowleymarine.com and one other that I forget what it's called. It's the evinrude site. The thottle cam roller is a little plastic roller that sits on that pin that sticks up on top of your carburetor. Hope this was somewhat helpful. You really should look up the FAQ on awakening a sleeping outboard.:)

Good luck,
JBJ
 

topdogjosh

Recruit
Joined
Jun 26, 2008
Messages
5
Re: questions about my new(to me) 18hp rude

I thank you for all your help. I actually found this motor in a classified section on the internet. That was some great info, especially on the carb. stuff. I had also noticied that it looked like it was missing a bushing and meant to ask about it in the last post. I dont know if I explained the shifter right, but theres a latch that catches the shift lever and keeps it from going back to nuetral from fwd. It can be seen in one of the pictures I posted last time. I also found out what was wrong with the pull starter. There was a spring broken on the inside, and it looks like a plastic "dog" on the bottom side has the tooth broken off. I found some good diagrams on boats.net, but still havent found anything about the electric start. Thanks, for all the help.......Josh
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This little C lever is the one that blocks the shift lever....Any ideas?
 

jbjennings

Captain
Joined
Jul 18, 2007
Messages
3,903
Re: questions about my new(to me) 18hp rude

The plastic piece on your recoil starter is called a pawl. I coldn't tell for sure if it was broken from your pic but it's a common thing for it to get broken because some folks grab the pull cord and jerk on it instead of pulling it out a little ways to let the pawl engage the flywheel and then pulling. If your spring is broken, you can get a new one or I've taken a propane torch and a pair of pliers and reformed a loop in the end and gotten a lot of service out of some. Be careful as that spring can cut the heck out of you or fly up in your face if you're not careful.

The electric start is pretty hard to find. You could get a new bracket and starter and buy a cheap solenoid and starter button and rig up electric start but once again, they're pretty hard to find and fairly expensive. Probably over 120 dollars for what you'd need at least. those motors are easy to pull start when tuned right but it is nice to have e-start.

As to the shift. Are you saying that you can't push back the shifter unless you reach back and pull out the lever that holds it in gear? If so, try a little grease on it. sometimes when they're completely dry they don't work so good. It could also be wear in your linkages but probably just needs a little grease on it.
later,
JBJ
 

topdogjosh

Recruit
Joined
Jun 26, 2008
Messages
5
Re: questions about my new(to me) 18hp rude

yes, thats the deal. I have to reach back and move it over to be able to push the shifter back to nuetral. I will go through it this evening and grease everthing up. Once again, thanks for all the help guys.
 

topdogjosh

Recruit
Joined
Jun 26, 2008
Messages
5
Re: questions about my new(to me) 18hp rude

Bye the way JB, I just noticed your from Louisiana. Where at? Im here in Winnfield.
 

tmcalavy

Rear Admiral
Joined
Aug 29, 2001
Messages
4,005
Re: questions about my new(to me) 18hp rude

You won't be able to move the shift lever unless/until you move the throttle down to Shift or Slow. It's designed that way. If it still sticks, you need to pull the hood/cowl off and look at how the throttle linkage is linked to the shift mechanism. If there's anything bound up or broken it should be readily seen.
 

jbjennings

Captain
Joined
Jul 18, 2007
Messages
3,903
Re: questions about my new(to me) 18hp rude

dang Tim, I forgot all about that! I'll bet that is exactly what's happening.

Josh,
I'm about 35 miles north of Shreveport out in the country. I was just down in your area the other day getting my new lab puppy from a fellow named S. Kiefer. You might know him---he likes to duck hunt, too.
I'm very pleased with the pup. I have trained labs for folks for many years and this seems to be a nice dog.

I also have a good friend by the name of Pray that was a vet in your area for many years that I think very highly of. Winnfield is a nice town. I particularly like that creek bottom in your area "dugdemona" which I know I forgot how to spell. While in college in natchitoches, my best friend and I would go visit his uncle Butch and go hog hunting on horseback with him in that creek bottom....LOADS of fun and such a beautiful place. Some of the best times of my life....

Anyway, back to your motor....
I like the good stout boat you have it on. When you get it fixed you'll really like it. Very good on gas.
BTW, you're more than welcome to the woodies but DON'T shoot any of MY mallards this winter in your new boat!;)
Welcome to iboats BTW,
JBJ
 

marcysibyll

Seaman
Joined
Jul 30, 2005
Messages
66
Re: questions about my new(to me) 18hp rude

ON the power head end of the shift lever, there should be a spring between the block and the lever. I can't tell from the pic if it's there or not.
Motor looks like it's got a 70's Johnson mid section, due to the difference in the paint- Evinrude blue on the top and bottom and Johnson green in the middle.
 

tmcalavy

Rear Admiral
Joined
Aug 29, 2001
Messages
4,005
Re: questions about my new(to me) 18hp rude

Hey JB,
So that new avatar of yours is a new pup...way to go. He's a real looker. Have you had him out in the boat yet?
 
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