Trims are good. Trailered the boat 50 feet over rough terrain then realized I had not put the trailer lock in position. I guess I blew out a seal in the tilt cylinder as a result. Now each time I lower the tilt fluid leaks out. I have been adding fluid as needed but the leak is getting worse and need to be repaired. Is this a simple repair of just a few O rings? My manual is on my other computer which is out of order at the moment.Any imput appreciated. Thanks.
Getting the tilt unit out from the bracket looks to be the hard part, once I get anything on a work bench its a lot easier to deal with.
Do a search here,
lots of posts about pounding the pivot pin out with a BFH and a drift.
Then a spanner wrench to unscrew the top from the cylinder but you can make one of those.
you should not have to pound the pin out tilt motor all the way up and tie up to something remove keeper pin push main pin out now trim down remove top cap.sometimes a punch/hammer will do but not recommended .then remove ram.you will need to put ram in vice.hold where you removed main pin and remove valve body/piston head then with pic remove center oring.
Strange i tow my 75hp force without anything just tilt up and go lol. Ive had more problems with those bars if the boat moves at all, the load goes right to the transom.
you should not have to pound the pin out tilt motor all the way up and tie up to something remove keeper pin push main pin out now trim down remove top cap.sometimes a punch/hammer will do but not recommended .then remove ram.you will need to put ram in vice.hold where you removed main pin and remove valve body/piston head then with pic remove center oring.
I don't entirely understand your post, Woody. Looks to me like w2much is trying something like this for the first time, as I am. He has a 1995 150hp, I have a 1997 175 hp. Should be the same FasTrak unit. I don't see any easy way of separating the tilt rod from the tilt cylinder. When you say "remove keeper pin push main pin out". What do you mean by a keeper pin? There's a snap ring on both sides of the pin that goes through the engine bracket and tilt rod. You have to remove the snap rings and either pound or somehow press the pin out of the assembly. Somebody suggested to me that a ball joint press might work. I don't know- I had to pound it and it's a s.o.b. to get out.
Then you need what's called a "face spanner wrench" with 1/4" pins to remove the end cap from the tilt cylinder. I bought one off Amazon, made by Armstrong. I guess you could make one, but it took some sharp raps with a hammer on the tool to loosen my end cap- a homemade tool might not stand up to that, and you might deform the holes in the end cap. Note that the wrench will NOT work on the TRIM cylinders- they have a smaller pin hole - I had to "modify" both the trim cylinder end caps and the tool to be able to disassemble all of it
Additional note - if you leave the PT&T unit attached to the engine bracket, clearance to use the wrench will be tight. If the holes in the end cap are lined up just right, you might be able to get the wrench in there and sneak it out, but you're sandwiched between the pump motor on one side and the fluid reservoir on the other. Since you're only doing the one cylinder I guess It's worth a shot, but be prepared to have to remove the unit.
Good luck!
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John and Linda
1999 Chris Craft 240 Express
5.7L Volvo-Penta w/Duo-Prop
2003 Dodge Ram 2500 Hemi
So here's where I am at. I have read probably all of the post on the trim tilts. I figured my real problem was going to be the keeper pins, kinda scared the hell out me. Pounding and posibly breaking the casting or applying heat so close to the transom neither sounded good. I remembered that patience has worked for me in the past so I have sprayed PB blaster on both pins each day when I got home from work for the last week. Yesterday I removed the circlips (retainng rings) put a socket on the pin and pounded. To my utter joy both of the pins moved. I stopped there and pounded them back into place and replaced the retaining rings as I am on vacation this week and plan to use the boat tomorrow. I was lucky to get a whole trim tilt unit off eBay for $225. and am waiting for it to get here. When it arrives I plan to just replace the whole unit then rebuild the removed unit ASAP. In looking at the attached unit I realized that once the upper tilt pin was removed I think that the tilt cylinder can be serviced while the whole t&t unit is attached to the motor. Is that correct? Can I just purchase the seal kit and replace the seals while t&t is in place? Might even be easier than installing the new t&t which I am waiting for. Thanks for your replies, I appreciate all of them.
Tilt cylinder only leaking. Does not leak down. Engine will stay tilted all the way up overnight or nights. Fluid only comes out when the engine is tilted down or should I say on the way down about at the point where the trim cylinders take over. Also I forgot to mention that the scraper seal actually popped out of position .I gently hammered it back into place but of course it still leaks. I know I should have a transom saver but my trailer cross member is to far forward so that the deep V of the hull prevents the tsaver from being used. BTW once the ring pops out the top of the cap assembly is it serviceable? or do I need a new cap assembly? Thanks Again. All replies appreciated.
Last edited by w2much : July 20th, 2008 at 07:27 PM.
Reason: omission
1995 150 Evinrude Tilt cylinder leaking
Linear Mode
