Hello,
I bought an 85 bayliner 19' w/ force 125 last summer and ran it all summer without any problems, and on season two, I'm starting to learn more about this boat and I have a few questions.
It starts great, and every plug jumps a 7/16ths gap at idle speeds. I've replaced the plugs with autolite plugs, referenced from the chilton repair book.
My first problem is whenever I've been running for a little while and turn the engine off to let someone in or out of the water, and then start it again, it dies after 1-2 seconds of running. Turning it over again starts it again, but I have to put it in gear pretty quick or it'll die out. I replaced the priming bulb, and squeezing it when it won't stay running seems to fix the problem. Is this a recirc problem or is there some kind of check valve I can replace? I think it losing gas in the primed line to one.
If I decarb, I can see some exhaust fumes coming out around the engine from somewhere, however, running the engine on the water with the cowl hood off makes no difference. Is this something that I should try to fix or if I see no change in performance with the cowl off, does it matter?
My real problem is my WOT RPM. I have a tach in the dash that reports 4100 RPM at WOT. I have checked that the butterfly valves are completely open on full throttle, adjusted the timing, change the idle mixtures, plugs, all with no result. At 4100 RPM the inboat speedo says 31, GPS says 30.5 or 31.5 (up or down stream) and I have a 17 pitch stainless with cups, and it has some dings and a dull leading edge. I believe that this lower unit is 1.78:1 ? I'm not sure on this, it seems to be stock. According to some prop calculators, that puts me at 22% slip. 30mph is fast enough for my purposes, but I'd rather not have a cylinder freeloading gas into the water. I've heard that the CD could be bad, lacking capacitance to support the high RPM, but I'd rather not pay 180 dollars on a hinch for one of these things. Is there a way to test these without a special high voltage meter or anything? The manual wants me to use some tools I don't have to test it. Swapping them won't do me any good since they're all firing at low rpm, as soon as I throttle down, the plugs will clean up, and fouling doesn't seem to be a problem.
Finally, the last owner put some paint on the hull with a brush. Its some expensive anti-fouling marine paint, but it is very rough, like sandpaper. Is this going to make a significant difference on the water? (More than 3mph (10%))
Thanks for any help!
I bought an 85 bayliner 19' w/ force 125 last summer and ran it all summer without any problems, and on season two, I'm starting to learn more about this boat and I have a few questions.
It starts great, and every plug jumps a 7/16ths gap at idle speeds. I've replaced the plugs with autolite plugs, referenced from the chilton repair book.
My first problem is whenever I've been running for a little while and turn the engine off to let someone in or out of the water, and then start it again, it dies after 1-2 seconds of running. Turning it over again starts it again, but I have to put it in gear pretty quick or it'll die out. I replaced the priming bulb, and squeezing it when it won't stay running seems to fix the problem. Is this a recirc problem or is there some kind of check valve I can replace? I think it losing gas in the primed line to one.
If I decarb, I can see some exhaust fumes coming out around the engine from somewhere, however, running the engine on the water with the cowl hood off makes no difference. Is this something that I should try to fix or if I see no change in performance with the cowl off, does it matter?
My real problem is my WOT RPM. I have a tach in the dash that reports 4100 RPM at WOT. I have checked that the butterfly valves are completely open on full throttle, adjusted the timing, change the idle mixtures, plugs, all with no result. At 4100 RPM the inboat speedo says 31, GPS says 30.5 or 31.5 (up or down stream) and I have a 17 pitch stainless with cups, and it has some dings and a dull leading edge. I believe that this lower unit is 1.78:1 ? I'm not sure on this, it seems to be stock. According to some prop calculators, that puts me at 22% slip. 30mph is fast enough for my purposes, but I'd rather not have a cylinder freeloading gas into the water. I've heard that the CD could be bad, lacking capacitance to support the high RPM, but I'd rather not pay 180 dollars on a hinch for one of these things. Is there a way to test these without a special high voltage meter or anything? The manual wants me to use some tools I don't have to test it. Swapping them won't do me any good since they're all firing at low rpm, as soon as I throttle down, the plugs will clean up, and fouling doesn't seem to be a problem.
Finally, the last owner put some paint on the hull with a brush. Its some expensive anti-fouling marine paint, but it is very rough, like sandpaper. Is this going to make a significant difference on the water? (More than 3mph (10%))
Thanks for any help!