[fishdog4449]

Hey guys! 1974 Merc 1150
Removed 8 bolts that hold the powerhead on as well as the shift linkage, and she wouldn't budge. what else do I have to remove to remove the powerhead?? Is is necessary to "break' it free or something like that with a mallet? I also dropped the lower unit so that the driveshaft splines would not make it hard to remove the powerhead.
Thanks in advance!!

[SuperGlue]

Fishdog, I just removed my inline 6 powerhead and it took quite a bit of work to get that gasket to "let go" of the powerhead. Had to work it for about 45 minutes to get it loose. There is a lot of surface area on the gasket so it holds pretty good. Once we got one side to let go, we use some wood shims to keep the gap open and then rocked against that gap to get the other side to let go. Good luck.

[fishdog4449]

Thanks Glue!
I will try to loosen it. I just wanted to be sure there were no other bolts or nuts holding it together.

[SuperGlue]

Yup, you should be good to go if you have the 8 bolts removed and the lower unit off. Did you unhook the throttle and shift linkages also? We did also do a little knocking on the bottom rear of the block with a block of wood and hammer.

[fishdog4449]

Yes I removed both. Yes I was going to ask where to apply pressure to knock her loose but I will try that!
Thanks!!!

[fishdog4449]

Ok, I have tried various ways of hitting (sledge with block of wood), heat and pulling. Still stuck. Can't even get a screwdriver or putty knife in the crack. Any ideas?
Thanks!!!

[gregpro50]

I always had luck putting a prybar underneath the first two bolts. I leave the nuts on the very end so the thread doesnt get messed up.

[fishdog4449]

Thanks greg i got the engine loose..or so i thought. Heres my problem, the powerhead appears to move up a bit, and the front studs move up a good 1/4 inch or so, the back ones only about 1/8th. tried lifting and had my brother hit bottom of back block with wood block and hammer. Anything I missed or does it just need more coaxing? Also, could it simply because my lift is attached to the middle flywheel and is offset from the center of gravity? Where is the engine supposed to disconnect from the mid section? I assumed it was at the green highlighted area---see pic, but there is no separation there when i move the engine up .

thanks for all the helps guys!!

[*EdC*]

I did a similar powerhead removal recently, What I found was,... The powerhead had to come straight up! My gasket was REALLY stuck. I took a small razor saw (X-acto) and cut the gasket in several areas. Then I made some wood shims and carefully wedged them in equally around the base of the motor. Be sure you are at the motor's base and not the base of the exhaust riser plate.

Ed

[jason1150]

your motor separates from the lower unit up above your two studs that show movement. the rear studs are pretty long. you'll see a rubber gasket, that is where it separates, put the nuts back on and use a pry tool, gently. good luck.

J

[gregpro50]

That green line is the gasket on the exhaust extension plate where it attaches to the mid section. The powerhead will separate above that where the powerhead attaches to the extension plate so you shouldnt have any movement there.

If you use the prybar just right you can get it on the middle bolts too.

[emckelvy]

The studs towards the back look pretty rusted, so I'd venture the cavities in the exhaust tower where the studs pass thru are packed with corrosion. This binds up the studs and keeps the powerhead from coming off.

If you tap on each stud with a metallic object such as a combination wrench, any stud that's free will "ping". Any stud that resounds a dull "thud" is stuck. You can also gently pry sideways to see if the stud will 'give', any one that doesn't give a little bit is stuck.

One way to get them loose is to heat the sides where the stud passes thru, with a propane or MAPP etc torch. Pry on the very front studs as suggested while heating the back studs, this'll help. As will thin wedges. Note: don't use a screwdriver, the surface area is too small and it'll gouge the sealing surfaces of the block and exhaust tower.

Another method I've used before on badly-stuck studs: run a nut back up one of the studs, except upside-down so the Nylock part faces up (or pick up some regular, fine-threaded non-locking nuts).

Grab a pile of 3/8" flat washers and stack onto the open end of the stud, up against the nut. Keep on stacking until the washers extend to the end of the stud. Then, using a chunk of steel, more washers, whatever is handy, fill up the rest of the space between the end of the stud and the structure below.

What you're going to do is use the stud as a "jacking bolt" by wrenching the nut on the stud downwards into the stuff you've used to create a "shim" below the stud.

This applys way more pressure than you could ever apply by 'wedging' and will force the stud (and the powerhead attached to the stud) upwards.

You may need to set up jacking points on both sides and on more than one stud per side. Combined with heat and prying from the front studs, I'll just about guarantee you'll bust that powerhead loose. If she don't come loose then, just break out the Plastique!!!!

HTH & let us know how it goes............ed

[fishdog4449]

thanks to all you guys!!
got it off by applying pressure and having my brother pull rope back and forth
came right off
keep and eye out for my "merc 1150 water in cylinder" thread to address the problem by which I had to remove the powerhead
again, thanks guys!!!!