I'm sure I'm not the first person this has happened to, but, well, hopefully I'm the last!
We bought a boat about a week ago (had test drive and I do trust the guy we bought it from... yes even now) and took her out on the water for the first time yesterday. It's a 17' 1984 Cobia with a 140hp mercruiser sterndrive I/O. I don't know the exact type of engine or the serial # and it looks like Ghostbusters outside so I'm not going out to check it. I think my question is general enough but I will supply serial number if necessary.
Yeah, so back to yesterday... It didn't go to well!
The short story is... It didn't start. I have never owned a boat before and never been around one much either, but I have always wanted one and am eager to learn all about them. So, I racked my brain for what stupid thing I wasn't thinking about doing. I had hooked up the battery (the trim worked before I tried to start it). I though I had done everything right!
First thing I did was call the guy we bought the boat from. Of course I had missed something stupid. When I hooked up the wires to the battery, I only did one (the one that powers the trim) because I only saw one. ugh! Once I did, it still wouldn't start! It would click when the ignition was turned but not turn over at all. The guy we bought the boat from said we could try jumpstarting it but he didn't sound too optimistic. Nevertheless, there was a boat just getting launched and they were nice! As this other boat was coming over to try to jump it, we kept trying and it did start to turn over a little bit. I gave it gas but couldnt get it going. One time right before we hooked up the cables, it started to start again, and then kept trying to start even when I wasn't turning the key. I even pulled the key out and it kept trying to start!. It kept getting weaker and weaker and then did finally stop.
Jumpstarting didn't work at all (but thank you wherever you are... I hope you cought many big fish because of the karma you earned by trying to help!). We got the boat out ok and I tested the battery today and it held at 10 volts. So the battery is fine, I guess. My next thought would be the starter, but once again, I don't know about boats yet, so I'm not going to guess.
I don't know if a diagnosis can be made from the info I provided, but please, any help would be appreciated. This is my first post on here, obviously, though probably not my last.
Thank you again.
- Eric
I'm sure I'm not the first person this has happened to, but, well, hopefully I'm the last!
We bought a boat about a week ago (had test drive and I do trust the guy we bought it from... yes even now) and took her out on the water for the first time yesterday. It's a 17' 1984 Cobia with a 140hp mercruiser sterndrive I/O. I don't know the exact type of engine or the serial # and it looks like Ghostbusters outside so I'm not going out to check it. I think my question is general enough but I will supply serial number if necessary.
Yeah, so back to yesterday... It didn't go to well!
The short story is... It didn't start. I have never owned a boat before and never been around one much either, but I have always wanted one and am eager to learn all about them. So, I racked my brain for what stupid thing I wasn't thinking about doing. I had hooked up the battery (the trim worked before I tried to start it). I though I had done everything right!
First thing I did was call the guy we bought the boat from. Of course I had missed something stupid. When I hooked up the wires to the battery, I only did one (the one that powers the trim) because I only saw one. ugh! Once I did, it still wouldn't start! It would click when the ignition was turned but not turn over at all. The guy we bought the boat from said we could try jumpstarting it but he didn't sound too optimistic. Nevertheless, there was a boat just getting launched and they were nice! As this other boat was coming over to try to jump it, we kept trying and it did start to turn over a little bit. I gave it gas but couldnt get it going. One time right before we hooked up the cables, it started to start again, and then kept trying to start even when I wasn't turning the key. I even pulled the key out and it kept trying to start!. It kept getting weaker and weaker and then did finally stop.
Jumpstarting didn't work at all (but thank you wherever you are... I hope you cought many big fish because of the karma you earned by trying to help!). We got the boat out ok and I tested the battery today and it held at 10 volts. So the battery is fine, I guess. My next thought would be the starter, but once again, I don't know about boats yet, so I'm not going to guess.
I don't know if a diagnosis can be made from the info I provided, but please, any help would be appreciated. This is my first post on here, obviously, though probably not my last.
Thank you again.
- Eric
Recharge your battery first. You should have over 12 volts showing for starters........clean ALL connections and then see where you're at then.
As I lay in bed last night thinming about my disappointing 'first time out' on our new boat, I bacame convinced it wasn't the battery. Really, what are the odds that the battery wasn't hooked up to start it at all, then when I did hook it up, that was the problem?
Again, I know little about this stuff, but it seemd to me that if 12 volts is fully charged, then 10 volts should get her going. no?
I will try that though, and thank you.
By the way, Ive heard them called 'ear-muffs' that you hook a hose up to to run the boat out of water, but on BoatersWorld.com they had no product when I searched for "muffs". Is there a more proper term for 'ear-muffs'?
Thank you again
- Eric
Go to any boat shop, heck you can get them at WalMart too. Muff, ears, its all the same. These are great for running your boat in the driveway. Just dont rev it a lot or let it run the rpm run to high. The ears dont provide enough water to your engine for that.
Could be worse - I bought my boat and the owner said it needed a battery and possibly a tuneup. After replacing the block, head, and impeller, I finally had a running boat....... Never heard from the seller again......
__________________
WAITIN' FOR SUMMER!
2007 Ebbtide 200 SE w/ 4.3 Merc
SOLD ----> 1987 16.2' ThunderCraft Regency 3.0 Merc
LESSON LEARNED: ALWAYS CHECK COMPRESSION BEFORE YOU BUY!
As I lay in bed last night thinming about my disappointing 'first time out' on our new boat, I bacame convinced it wasn't the battery. Really, what are the odds that the battery wasn't hooked up to start it at all, then when I did hook it up, that was the problem?
Again, I know little about this stuff, but it seemd to me that if 12 volts is fully charged, then 10 volts should get her going. no?
I will try that though, and thank you.
By the way, Ive heard them called 'ear-muffs' that you hook a hose up to to run the boat out of water, but on BoatersWorld.com they had no product when I searched for "muffs". Is there a more proper term for 'ear-muffs'?
Thank you again
- Eric
10 volts will not do it, you have to have at least 12V a fully charged battery will be close to 14volts. 10 volts mighnt click the solenoid but thats about it.
Question, how easy did it start when you took the test drive? If the battery is more than 2 or 3 years old, it's probably due for replacement. It depends on how well the battery was maintained. But usually, it's not touched til the engine won't start.
You are beginning a new chapter of your life having bought your first boat. If you have mechanical aptitude, get a factory manual (note: factory, not Clymers or Seloc) and study it from front to back. There is alot a beginner can do to maintain their toy.
If your mechanically challenged, find a reputable mechanic and have him maintain it. A boat is a unique animal. It will treat you nice if you treat it nice. But neglect it, and when you need it the most, it will fail you sure as
s---.
u got a wal-mart near u?new battery and auto battery charger.i got my battery charger at home depot.husky automatic also will allow u to see how much its charged and check your alternator. west marine or sears good for battery's too.muffs a must
You could also have a very worn starter or solinoid. Check the age of the battery, unlike cars they only last 2 god years (sometimes longer). See Don's note about repalcing the wing nuts with real bolts. Here is a tip: use bolts and then have a box wrench clipped for those nuts stored near the battery and secured. Also make sure you have a cover for the positve terminal.
Eliminate the obvious, (connections) and start with that ignition. They are cheap and easy to repalce. If you are not very experienced on this, take a photo before to you start removing the wires and label. (Just in case you need to reconnect as is). I am betting money the ignition switch is an issue.
I am in the process of adding dual batteries once I get an idea of what is needed so my old bettery can be a back up.
forgot the easiset thing to check: Water in battery! And use distilled only to fill. You could have an empty cell (s). IT takes more juice to crank a small 4 cyl. I/0 than a 8 cylinder car motor.
Go to any boat shop, heck you can get them at WalMart too. Muff, ears, its all the same. These are great for running your boat in the driveway. Just dont rev it a lot or let it run the rpm run to high. The ears dont provide enough water to your engine for that.
I bet its a worn out or corroded ignition switch. This has happened to me before... You can get a replacement ignition at ACE hardware ... Just maths the terminal configuration.
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1990 Cruisers Inc. Rogue 3070 Twin 454's 330hp
So, thank you, everyone for your help. I know it's been a while but I wanted to fill everyone in on what I've done and what I still need to do.
I have a friend who is pretty good with boat engines, so I got a new battery and earmuffs and headed over to get some help from him. We hooked up the new battery and, unfortunately, that wasn't the problem. It still didn't start.
We started trouble shooting the starting system and eventually got it started. This is how it worked. We took the air filter (flat round thing on top) off the carbeurator and sprayed some wd40 right into it. Turned the key to on. We then touched 2 ends of a wire to the 2 screws on the solenoid (attached picture) and it started up.
I have still had problems with it sometimes having an ugly metallic grinding sound (I think the starter? continuously trying to crank it, like it did the first time when the key did work) or not turning off when i turn the key off (either way I just unhook the battery and try again if need be). The good thing is that sometimes it purrs like a kitten!
Based on this, it has been recommended to me to get a new solenoid, definitely, and some have said to get a new starter, as well.
Do you all agree with this?
Also, the engine I have is a Mercruiser MCM-120 and the serial number is 6892045. Does anyone know what solenoid/starter I should get? (solenoid in attachment)
Thanks for all your input so far and thanks for helping me out with this.
Sounds like your starter is not engaging/dis-engaging properly. I'd pull the starter and have it tested and/or rebuilt. We have a small shop that specializes in starters/alternators/electric motors that just re&re'd my alternator for about 1/2 the cost of a reman unit. See if you have one near you that you can go to. They should be able to test it for cheap or even free if it's a slow day. Once you know the starter's good, move on to the rest of the starting circuit. The solinoid I'd just replace as they're prety inexpensive (<$20) Then test the ignition switch and see if it makes/breaks contact to the solinoid terminal as the key is turned on and off. Make sure ALL connections are clean and TIGHT. Especially the grounds. Make sure where the solinoid bolts on to the motor is clean and has good contact as they are grounded through the mounting screws/bracket.
If you're going to keep that OMC Cobra, please for the love of everything good in the world, get an OMC factory service manual. Not a Clymers, Not a SELOC. You can find them on eBay.
Check the starter to make sure the bolts & the bracket are tight. On mine, the bracket that connects the starter to the engine block had loosened up. The starter would not disengage, so I know that grinding sound!
That looks like a older Ford typer solinoid, but remove it and take it to Napa and they will hook you up. The problem with it not turning off is probably the key switch because it it supposed to cut power to the coil, and apparantly, it's not.
__________________
"De Oppresso Liber"
1976 Sea Ray SRV 190, 188HP 888 AND 888 OUTDIRVE.
With a new battery you can eliminate it as a source of the problem, *IF* you keep it fully charged. Be aware, running the trim up and down with the engine off (not charging) will wear the battery down very quickly. I have/use a trickle charger with an automatic shut off when I have the boat sittting/stored. That way I know the battery has a full charge everytime we go out.
Next, when you cranked the engine with such a low voltage (10 volts) I suppect you over heated both it and the starter solenid. You may have damaged the solenoid to the point that it is "sticking" when you release the key. I would not even mess around. I would pull it and take to a repair shop for testing and rebuild.
As others have said, "muffs" are "engine flushers". Most WalMarts carry them for next to nothing. ($5) You will want a pair to test everything BEFORE hitting the water. In fact, when I have a big day of boating planned there are several things I would suggest doing before going out.
Check the oil levels in the engine and outdrive. (Everytime!!!)
Visually look at the engines belt(s) for cracked, worn, glazed, or other damage. Check its tension.
Check battery terminals to make certain they are tight and free of "gunk".
With the muffs, fire the engine and check that it comes to operating temp and that you have water flowing. Listen for any unusual sounds. (Squealing belts, engine noise, etc.)
Do a visual inspection of the prop for damage, especially cracks.
Run the bilge blower a bit to make certain it is working properly. (Before firing the engine) Same for the bilge pump. It may not have any water to pump but listen to make certain it is running for a couple seconds.
Do a quick check to make certain you have your saftey equipment on board. Life vests, first aid kit that is all there, etc.
All of this will take you maybe 10 or 15 minutes but its cheap insurance against having problems on the water and as you become used to doing it you will become more familar with your boat and will become more atuned to something being out of the ordinary.
Oh, one more thing. You engine has a carb. and you need to consider this when your starting it after setting for a long period. 20 years ago everyone knew how to start a cold carberated engine but most don't remember as new engines almost all have fuel injection. Put the shift lever into "disengaged" position and fully advance the throttle 3 or 4 times (like when you used to "pump" the accelerator on an old car) and then set it at about 1/4 to 1/3 throttle when you crank the engine. Throttle back to idle once it fires off.
Opps, one more one more thing. Check your trailer , the hitch, and wheel bearing grease! Ask anyone that been 20 miles from home how much fun a burned out wheel bearing on a loaded trailer is. (Hint: No fun at all!)
Imagine for a moment you have a car that you use maybe once every two weeks, but when you use it you take it out and run it at wide open throttle or near it for extended periods and then park it for another 2 weeks. If you can think of it like this it will help you understand what is happening and why the pre-check is so important.
I love my new boat!??? ummmm... help!
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