I recently bought a used boat with a 40hp Mariner. I installed a tach but have a wiring issue. There was an unused section of wiring harness under the dash with a yellow, a green, and a black wire. I thought these were for the tach hookup. I connected the yellow to signal, the green to ign and the black to ground. I got nothing on the tach. I traced the wires back to the big multi-pin connector on the side of the motor and did a continuity check. The yellow turns into a pink wire on the other side of the connector. The black stays black and is a ground lug. The green enters the boat side of the plug, but I can't find a wire on the engine side of the plug that has continuity. I followed the pink wire to a square plastic wire cover with a spare fuse. Inside I found the pink wire splits into a male and female end, but they are plugged into each other, effectively creating an open circuit. So I have a pink that doesn't connect, a good ground and a green that seems to stop at the plug. Can someone help me sort this out? The tach is a new Teleflex. Thanks in advance. John
Normally the Tach signal is grey, ignition switch power is purple and ground is black. The only green I know about is power for the PTT unit to trim down. See if you can find the rectifier or voltage regulator. The interconnect between the yellow stator wires and the grey tach signal wire will be obvious. On a rectifier, they will be connected together on one pole of the rectifier. On a voltage regulated system, the grey will be connected to the yellow stator wire inside the VR.
Normally the Tach signal is grey, ignition switch power is purple and ground is black. The only green I know about is power for the PTT unit to trim down. See if you can find the rectifier or voltage regulator. The interconnect between the yellow stator wires and the grey tach signal wire will be obvious. On a rectifier, they will be connected together on one pole of the rectifier. On a voltage regulated system, the grey will be connected to the yellow stator wire inside the VR.
Rear Admiral,
Thanks for the reply. I think you may be correct about the power trim. However, The wires are there and if I can use them, they come out at the right spot.
This is a Japanese/Yamaha Mariner. It has a rectifier, but there are no external poles. The unit is essentially potted and the pigtails are waterproof connectors. Also, there are no yellow wires coming out of the stator. They are green. The rectifier has 2 greens , 1 red, and a black. In fact there is no yellow wire on the engine at all. The one green is much longer than the other when you take it out of the loom. When you disconnect it, there is enough wire on both connector ends to match up perfectly to the 2 connectors of the pink/yellow boat wire. Effectively this is tapping one wire of the stator. This is the same result as tapping onto an external pole, correct? That would give me a signal and a ground back at the tach. Does this make sense to you so far? I would then just need to figure out where the green goes.
I do not know those answers. The tach signal usually comes from the stator. If you can determine the connection to the tach, from the stator, you should be OK. My initial thought was that the boat wiring harness was for a motor with PTT, and you did not have that option. Hence the unconected green wire. From your description, I can only encourage you to get a manual for your motor, to get the facts.
I agree about the manual. I actually bought one that said it covered this engine, Mariner 40 hp – 40EL 6E9 416130 - 2 cylinder
But when I got it, it only covered the 4 cylinder 40hp and the wiring was not even close.
Thanks for the info. I have been searching for over a week for help with this problem. How did you come by the information. No one had even mentioned a lighting coil vs. an alternator. Are you saying that I don't have an alternator at all? What is charging the cranking battery? Thanks again for the help.
John
addendum: It struck me about the time I hit send, of the futility of my statement. If I had received the correct manual in the first place, there would be no questions! Thanks again for recalibrating my compass and pointing me in the correct direction. I will resolve the manual issue with the literature vendor and all should be well.
John
Last edited by jjamzman : June 13th, 2008 at 01:45 PM.
Reason: addendum
I know this post is old but I have some info for you. These japanese mariners are made by yamaha. I have a 40EL 6E9- model 2 carb. I had trouble with my tach also I successfully fix this problem. first of all this stator is just a little lighting coil but flywheel has 4 magnets make 4 pulses. set any teleflex tach to 2p setting and place a .33 microfarad capacitor across the signal and ground terminal. I pulled apart a mercury adaptor and this is all it was, a .33uF capacitor. the capacitor stabilizes the pulse signal by filtering out induced noise from ignition system to ground. also the yamaha 1992 c40 series engine is the same engine Parts are alot cheaper from yamaha. and still availible. I recently repaced some NLA mariner parts from yamaha which are still available and my engine is a 1982. hope this helps good luck!
Im sorry but I forgot to mention to you that your tach signal wire connects to one of the green leads on your rectifier which is an ac signal from the lighting / stator coil. yellow is ignition +12 and ground is black, the pink wire is your temp warning signal wire. some CDI modules also hooked up to this pink wire as well as a thermal switch in the head which not only triggered a light an or alarm but cut the engine rpm to 2000 rpm to prevent damage in the event of an overheat and alowed you to put put back to the dock perhaps. some models like mine has the wire but no sensor or alarm. buy yourself a seloc 1400 mariner outboard manual for 25 buck well worth the money.
Mariner Tach Wiring
Re: Mariner Tach Wiring
Linear Mode
