solder battery lugs help

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RoboHandJobO

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I am not having good luck teaching myself to solder battery lugs to 6 gauge wire. Any tips or recommendations on the best way to make this happen? I am using a standard Radio Shack soldering gun and lead free solder. Should I try to roll the bead down the wire or wrap a bead around the outside? Thanks again guys for all your help.
 
bhammer

bhammer

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Re: solder battery lugs help

I assume you are not trying to solder a wire directly to the battery itself? If you are trying to install a lug on the end of the wire, use some flux paste to clean it well. You can apply with an acid brush. With a 6 wire, it may require a lot of heat to get the solder to melt and a small torch may be needed. I use a cooking torch (creme breule ?sp?) for the bigger wires. You should heat the wire and lug enough so that the solder melts when touching them and not the iron. Any large mounds of solder mean too much or not enough heat.

Once you get the wire / lug hot enough, it should flow real nice down the wire and onto the lug. You can also use a good marine crimp stly lug and be done with it.
 
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C

Coors

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Re: solder battery lugs help

Yes, the work should be hot enough to melt the solder, not holding the iron on it.
 
JB

JB

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Re: solder battery lugs help

Soldering that connection is a poor idea and a solder gun is unlikely to have enough heat to do it well. Use crimp on lugs.
 
jtexas

jtexas

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Re: solder battery lugs help

that 15 watt radio shack soldering iron is great for transistors and diodes, but it'll never get a battery lug hot enough to melt solder. you need way more hotter than that.
 
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RoboHandJobO

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Re: solder battery lugs help

I will crimp it and be done with it. Good advice. Thanks guys. I do not have the skill to accomplish it any other way. I will have to buy a heavy gauge lug crimper, but it will be a good tool investment. Is the Anchor 701010 Marine Grade Electrical Heavy Duty Lug Crimper (6 to 4/0-Gauge) a good product? I know there are better options, but I can't justify spending $150+ on something that I will use so rarely. I know I will have to use a hammer. The ratchet crimpers seem great, but I can get the wire through the hull with the connections already attached. Should I just take my connectors, heat shrink and wire to a car stereo shop?
 
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John_S

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Re: solder battery lugs help

I have used the propane plumbing torch set at a low flame to get the lug and wire hot enough to draw the solder in.
 
Bondo

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Re: solder battery lugs help

I have used the propane plumbing torch set at a low flame to get the lug and wire hot enough to draw the solder in.
Click to expand...

Ayuh,..... Same here......

And,......
Don't use solder Flux Paste,.... Use Rosin Core.....

The Flux Paste is an acid, which will migrate Up the wire,+ cause Corrosion.......
 
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rndn

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Re: solder battery lugs help

Why don't you take the wire and lug to a garage and ask them to crimp the lug for you. Why spend $150 for a one time use. They also sell a small crimper that you hit with a hammer and it only costs 20 bucks.
 
Barnacle_Bill

Barnacle_Bill

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Re: solder battery lugs help

Bond-o said:
Ayuh,..... Same here......

And,......
Don't use solder Flux Paste,.... Use Rosin Core.....

The Flux Paste is an acid, which will migrate Up the wire,+ cause Corrosion.......
Click to expand...

DEFINITELY!
 
KnottyBuoyz

KnottyBuoyz

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Re: solder battery lugs help

Ditto on the rosin core solder. When I put together battery cables etc. I put the lug in a vise with the open end up. Heat that up and melt in a good amount of solder (half full is good). With tinned marine wire it's easy to just put it in the lug with the molten solder and take the heat away. It'll take just a few seconds to harden up. Anything under 6 ga. I can crimp with my Ideal Ratcheting Crimper ($69) best investment in a tool I've ever made.

I have one of the hammer type crimpers for larger cables (I've done up to 2/0 with it). Works great. I have noticed some conductors break where they enter the lug if you're too ambitious with the hammer. Another alternative is to take your cables to a welding shop. They usually have cable crimpers and will crimp your lugs for a couple of bucks.
 
JCF350

JCF350

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Re: solder battery lugs help

Materials= 1 propane torch
60/40 rosin cored solder
Battery ends
Battery cable
Adhesive lined heat shrink of the proper color

Hold ring lug upside down over the torch (use the edge of the flame as propane can still generate too much heat and damage the copper) and fill 2/3 with the solder.

Insert cable into terminal and hold there for just bit then remove from heat (this will allow the solder to flow around "ALL" the strands of wire in the connection).

Let it air cool and install the heat shrink to cover the exposed area.

A soldered connection will be stronger and be able to carry more current than any "butcher job" (my not so humble opinion:D) crimp connection out there.
 
JB

JB

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Re: solder battery lugs help

This solder vs. crimp discussion has been thrashed out before. Quotes from various Government agencies come down on the side of crimps.

Do a search.
 
jtexas

jtexas

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Re: solder battery lugs help

JCF350 said:
...
A soldered connection will be stronger and be able to carry more current than any "butcher job" (my not so humble opinion:D) crimp connection out there.
Click to expand...

The reason given by the ABYC for favoring crimp over solder is that solder makes a solid conductor connection to a stranded conductor, with a high probability of stressing the stranded wire to the breaking point in the shock & vibration of a marine environment. That's a general suggestion, there are exceptions, I wouldn't be surprised if battery lugs are one of 'em.

Anyway that's their position, I don't have the expertise to debate it on the merits, but I like it because crimping is faster.
 
JCF350

JCF350

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Re: solder battery lugs help

JB said:
This solder vs. crimp discussion has been thrashed out before. Quotes from various Government agencies come down on the side of crimps.

Do a search.
Click to expand...

Don't care about Governments agencies. Mine is based on having to cut out and replace thousands of crimps and installing soldered (due to the ampacity reduction of of the connection of the crimp over time). These are also the same folks that claim that the DC current carrying capability is not affected by the individual strand size of the wire when in life it has shown that finer stranded wire will carry more DC current than one with coarser strands.

I will recant the "strength" statement how ever. But if your relying on an electrical connection for mechanical strength something ain't right to begin with.
 
bhammer

bhammer

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Re: solder battery lugs help

You are right on the flux, but I always wash mine with triclorethelene in a goose neck bottle to remove it but I didn't say that. No worris on corrosion after that but I have found tell tale signs of other's work with the green wire.

In aviation, we have seen the solder versus crimp as well and it is debated regulary but it always comes down to a proper solder job is better than a crimp and the ability to carry the anticipated load for the given run. Now, saying that, most are now crimped and not soldered. :confused: And you don't find lugs, only pins and cannon plugs. I have done both and not had a failure that I can think of.
 
jtexas

jtexas

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Re: solder battery lugs help

bhammer said:
...In aviation, we have seen the solder versus crimp as well and it is debated regulary but it always comes down to a proper solder job is better than a crimp and the ability to carry the anticipated load for the given run. Now, saying that, most are now crimped and not soldered. :confused: And you don't find lugs, only pins and cannon plugs. I have done both and not had a failure that I can think of.
Click to expand...

just make sure the retainers on the wiring bundles in the wheel well of your MD80 are e-x-a-c-t-l-y one inch apart

;)
 
bhammer

bhammer

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Re: solder battery lugs help

jtexas said:
just make sure the retainers on the wiring bundles in the wheel well of your MD80 are e-x-a-c-t-l-y one inch apart

;)
Click to expand...

That was too funny.
:D:D:D:D Oh come on Mr. FAA, you mean 99/100ths of an inch are not going to cut it? :D I'm glad I am in the corporate/consulting side of the house.
 
Bondo

Bondo

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Re: solder battery lugs help

These are also the same folks that claim that the DC current carrying capability is not affected by the individual strand size of the wire when in life it has shown that finer stranded wire will carry more DC current than one with coarser strands.
Click to expand...

Ayuh,...... I Agree,......

That's Why all my battery wiring is made of Welding Cable........
And So are my 30' Jumper Cables.....
 
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